Menzerna process

For paint that is in decent shape, I use the following:

Wash with Dawn
Claybar it
Porter Cable
Final Polish II with CCS White Pads
Klasse AIO with CCS White Pad
FMJ with CCS Red Pad

In the past I have used Klasse AIO and P21S instead of FMJ, but I think the FMJ lasts longer so I just use it. I may start topping the FMJ with the P21S just because I already have it.
 
For vehicles with any kind of swirls, I usually go IP with white LC pad and then FP II with white LC pad. If I go all the way with Menzerna, I finish up with FMJ on the red LC pad.:)
 
It depends on an awful lot of factors and can (and will) vary from vehicle to vehicle. The condition/type/color will dictate what and how it is used.

For a two step, one of the more popular combos would be SIP/orange followed by 106/white. If it were a softer paint, then you'd probably go SIP/white and then 106/grey.

For a one step with light to medium defects, I find that 203 with a white pad works fantastic.
 
TSC17 said:
It depends on an awful lot of factors and can (and will) vary from vehicle to vehicle. The condition/type/color will dictate what and how it is used.

For a two step, one of the more popular combos would be SIP/orange followed by 106/white. If it were a softer paint, then you'd probably go SIP/white and then 106/grey.

For a one step with light to medium defects, I find that 203 with a white pad works fantastic.
Click to expand...

Hey Todd, are those recommendations by Dual Action or Rotary?

Todd
 
Termigator said:
For vehicles with any kind of swirls, I usually go IP with white LC pad and then FP II with white LC pad. If I go all the way with Menzerna, I finish up with FMJ on the red LC pad.:)
Click to expand...

+1...I just ordered my first bottle of FMJ for my spring clean up. I cant wait to try it.
 
One product I haven't seen mentioned yet, that is one of my favorite Menzerna products is the PO203 Power Finish. I have a dark blue metallic Honda, and I can use the PO203, with either a German Green LC pad, or a White LC pad, on speed 5 on the Flex, and finish out LSP ready.

This product has almost as much cut as the SIP, and finishes out very nicely. You can dial the product in with pad choice on the Flex or rotary to get the desired amount of cut. Let me just say that via rotary, I will always finish out with a true finishing polish and finishing pad after using this, but with the Flex, you can finish LSP ready with it.
 
Menzerna is, and has been, my preferred product line. Here's the process I usually use when the paint is in decent shape to begin with:

LC orange pad/IP (sometimes x2)
IPA wipedown
LC white pad/FPII or PO106FF (depends on a few things)
IPA wipedown
FMJ x2

The IPA wipedowns are critical when using Menz polishes if you want to get a true idea of how the paint looks. After the second coat of FMJ, I always top it with a 'nuba, even though FMJ alone looks great on a well prepped finish.
 
Specific Paint types / Polish and Foam Pad Combinations:

a) Dark or Soft Paint Finishes - PO 85 RD 3.01 Super Intensive Polish (F) black or dark coloured paint surfaces, and 'soft' paint - 1200 RPM -White primary (softer less dense foam (70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action ) LC CCS foam pad followed by a secondary Blue finishing (very soft 100 PPI) LC CCS foam pad - 1100 RPM

b) Light / Medium Paint Correction - Power Finish (PO203S) and PO 85 D3.01 polishes (LC CCS Green / LC Blue foam or Micro Mesh TufBuf ? black lamb?s wool pads 1500 - 2000 RPM) should be all you need.

c) Paint Renovation - PO S34A Power Gloss (LC Purple wool pad 1500 ? 1800 RPM) it has a short work time slow cut but tends to ?dust?
 
First step: Either Power Gloss with PFW for heavy correction, or SIP with PFW for medium defects.

Middle step (if needed) SIP w/ PFW or white LC foam

Final step: Totally depends on paint hardness/softness, and how well the previous step finished out. For medium and hard paints where the previous step finished out well: PO85RD with a zero bite pad. For softer paint that finished down well in the previous step: FPII and zero bite pad. 106FF or FA if there's still significant polishing marks. I like FA better than FF, though. You don't have to work FA as long as you do FF for the same result.

I find that I'm only using Menz polishes for jeweling, as M105 and 205 give better results faster. IMO, of course. :)
 
On my red PU I use:
IP on orange CCS
FCII on white CCS
maybe Glaze on black CCS, if needed
Finish up FMJ on red CCS.

PU shines like a mirror.
 
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