Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze

T

TortoiseAWD

New member
I recently had a chance to play with FTG on my silver WRX. I worked with FTG (and FMJ) only on my roof, as the evening was getting short, and I was really just experimenting with these two new products to see where (and if) they would have a place in my kit. I had high hopes for the glaze, but I ran into a problem and was hoping someone might have suggestions as to how to remedy it.



The instructions for FTG by PC say to buff with a polishing pad until the product begins to dry out. For me, it just stayed wet. I tried buffing it for several minutes, and while the glaze did become a bit tackier, it never appeared to get the "flash point" where it would begin to haze or dust. Wiping off the residue was difficult. On initial wiping, the residue was stubborn and smeared; however, I discovered if I used all four sides of a folded towel, I could get a clean shine. I'd wipe several times with each towel surface, flipping to a clean side each time . . . finally it came off clean, but it required a lot more elbow grease than I'd like.



So, any suggestions? I tried varying the amount of glaze I used (used more, used less), but that didn't seem to have any real effect. I used a white polishing pad on my PC . . . it wasn't new, but I believe it was clean enough that there shouldn't have been any residues from other products in there (thoroughly washed since last use). I do intend to try again with a brand new pad, but I'd hate to think that FTG was that finicky about "contamination". I suppose I should do at least one area by hand, but that's just a data point . . . I have no desire to apply a product like this by hand to the entire car when I have a perfectly good PC at my disposal (yes, I'm lazy, dammit :D).



Thanks for any advice,

Tort
 
Tort,



I have the same problem as you when the first time i use with my cordless Orbital. The pad seem to soak so much of the product that takes longer to work on and use plenty of MF to buff it off.



After several experimental on different section of a car, i found that applying thinly by hand is much better using MF pad that come with the package. I let it sit for about 15mins and buff off with 2 MF cloth. First MF to clean the first couple of pass and the second to buff the remaining left over (all folded into 4 layers). It still a bit difficult but it's much better then applying by PC. I guess the filler clay that makes it hard to remove in the FTG.

I've found out that applying FP prior to FTG makes it even less difficult to remove FTG.:xyxthumbs
 
I have been using the FTG but I have only been applying it by hand and as of yet have had no problems.



If you wish to use a PC then perhaps you can also use the PC with a MF towel to remove it:nixweiss



Anthony
 
I haven't had a chance to use the Menzerna line that I ordered at this point except for the shampoo. What do you all think of the shampoo? To me it doesn't sud worth a damb, but maybe the high quality shampoos don't? I've noticed that the PS12 doesn't sud that much either. I used a lot of shampoo when I tried the Menzerna and got nothing. I like suds.
 
I have glazed my Tahoe and appiled the FMJ twice. I used my PC to apply glaze with no problem. The PC was run at 3.5-4 and buffed until the glaze was worked in to the paint with only a trace left for buffing.



The first time I applied the FMJ was with the PC at 4.0-4.5. Buffed until it was almost dry and wiped the remainder off with MF towels, no problem. Today, I applied the second coat of FMJ by hand and decide to leave it on my Tahoe overnight to see if it makes a difference when removing.
 
product seems to "disappear" after only a few minutes applying by hand...leaves a great shine and very easy to buff off.

I haven't had the desire to use the PC because it went on so easily by hand.
 
AutoNova: Sorry; I haven't tried the shampoo yet.



I'll experiment more with the glaze . . . I picked up a new polishing pad that I'll dedicate to FTG (just in case there was some other product residue in my pad causing problems).



A few more questions: For those that have had success with the glaze, what's the final residue like? Did it finally begin to dry out when you were applying it? Did the residue wipe off easily and cleanly, or did you have to use some pressure?



Perhaps I just didn't work the glaze long enough (although I thought I buffed it for a decent amount of time) . . . :nixweiss



Tort
 
It dry out kinda a little tacky (very very very little) no matter how long you wait. I guess because of the clay properties in the Glaze. But what do i know?



It wipe off easily for me and cleanly, though i do have to use slight pressure to clean if off (i use 2 MF -left hand and right hand;) ) But not as hard as a pressure you would clean out IP or FP.
 
I used the Menzerna Glaze after using Menzerna FP and had no problem. I used the PC and worked the glaze in for a while but nothing excessive. Topped it with WG sealant and results were great.
 
I am not so sure Wolfgang will bond properly to that. You may consider using the wolfgang polish prior to it instead.



I am curious, how does this glaze work? Does it hide defects like a traditional glaze? How would it compare to say, VM? How tough is the FMJ? Hows the look?
 
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