Meguiars Speed Glaze or SFP by hand?

RedStang

New member
Would Meguiars Speed Glaze (#80) or Swirl Free Polish (#82) be easier to apply by hand with a terry applicator pad?



Also, if I'd use the Speed Glaze, would something like Hand Polish (#81) be necessary afterwards?... or would the added oils in Speed Glaze be enough? I'm thinking I could use Speed Glaze as a one-step-polish instead of using #82 followed by #81, would this work out ok?



BTW, my plan is the following:



Wash

Clay

Wash

Polish (either #82+#81 or just #80)

Wolfgang sealant

Wax (Meguiars #16)
 
Speed glaze breaks down really quickly so it might be easier to work with by hand. #81 probably isn't necessary after though and probably wouldn't be advised since you are going to use the WG sealant. I probably would do 80, WG, 16. I've done 1Z PP, WG, 16 many times on customers cars and they are looking good and speed glaze is similar to 1Z PP.
 
Well, I use #82 by hand, and have had great success. I was very dissapointed the first and second and third and many more times before I got some real practice with it.



What I do it go side to side, then up and down, and diagonal either direction. I do that about 5 times in each section, and it works really good.



Have a go at it, and see how it works for u
 
Here is 83, 80, NXT, 16 by hand. I wanna be like Scottwax!!



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Thanks for the replies so far... and yeah... ScottWax's work by hand is amazing. I'm just hoping that everything would go well for me with the Speed Glaze and I won't get any kind of marring or hazing, since I won't be using a "lighter" polish afterwards. I think I remember reading that sealants/waxes could also take care of any possible hazing and what not, is this true? I'm not even sure if Speed Glaze has been known to cause this... but I do remember people using DACP having this happen.



I'm sure though, if I follow Scott's polishing techniques, I shouldn't come across any of these problems... and will have a stunning red car afterwards. :D :up
 
After using Speed Glaze #80 at the Autopia/Meguiars meet and subsequently purchasing some, I prefer it to #82 because it initially cuts more quickly but also breaks down more quickly so you don't have to work it quite as long. Should work great by hand.



Only one problem with #80....it looks like something you would find in a diaper. Not a pleasant color! Works like a charm though and that is what counts!
 
Sounds good. Now, how long do I work the Speed Glaze? I know it cuts faster than SFP, but since I've never worked with SFP (or any polish for that matter), how long does it take this stuff to cut and break down? Basically I just want to know when I've worked it enough. I know Scott's technique is using small circular motions and eventually going side to side... should I work it in this manner until the product is almost gone/dry?



I appreciate all the help for this detailing newbie. :)
 
I'll work a 4x4 panel ( trunk ) for about 4 minutes before I'm ready to buff off the residue from the SFP. I like it now that I've used it more. Just to let you know, it won't take out much, since its a really mild polish.



Once I try DACP, I'm sure I'll be even happier with the results.
 
and heres after:



Thats with a coat of cheap meguiars cleaner wax, so you know that it won't remove most of the fillers that SFP might have.
 
Only one problem with #80....it looks like something you would find in a diaper. Not a pleasant color!



Well, thanks a lot. Now that's all I will be able to think about whenever I use #80. Before this, I thought it looked pretty cool -- you could shake it up and see the little dark colored, emulsified "whatevers" floating around in a tan base. But now...



RedStang, be sure to work the #80 long enough. I used it by hand in a small area the first time and got some "holographic" marring. Scottwax told me it was because I didn't work it enough. I used a foam waxing pad, but he said to use terrycloth because it has more bite. I use #80 with my PC and love the results!
 
Dave N said:
RedStang, be sure to work the #80 long enough. I used it by hand in a small area the first time and got some "holographic" marring. Scottwax told me it was because I didn't work it enough. I used a foam waxing pad, but he said to use terrycloth because it has more bite. I use #80 with my PC and love the results!



Yeah I was planning on using the terry applicators for that reason... but how do I know when "enough is enough" so to speak? Does the stuff turn a different color, change consistency, or is it just a matter of "knowing" and I can only tell by practice?
 
Sorry, I don't know how long by hand. I just tried it that one time by hand on half my hood, and have used my PC ever since. I guess you'll just have to experiment and see.
 
RedStang said:
Yeah I was planning on using the terry applicators for that reason... but how do I know when "enough is enough" so to speak? Does the stuff turn a different color, change consistency, or is it just a matter of "knowing" and I can only tell by practice?



It begins to dry and look nearly clear. You have to work it long enough to break down the abrasives.
 
Scottwax said:
It begins to dry and look nearly clear. You have to work it long enough to break down the abrasives.



Alright, sounds good. Do you apply it in certains areas of a section (like a panel, door, roof, etc...) and finish the entire section before removing? Or would removing it right after being "clear and dry" be ok too?



Another quick question to anyone who knows... is the Speed Glaze an acceptable base for the Wolfgang sealant? Should I use something else in between the Speed Glaze and Wolfgang or is there something else that could substitute the Speed Glaze (like AIO, although I'm not sure of it's swirl removing capabilities) so I could go right to Wolfgang after applying it?



EDIT: I'm even thinking of just going with the Wolgang twins + #16 since the swirls on my car are no eyesore or anything (they are there though). I'd just use the pre-wax polish with a terry pad and see what happens... I'm still undecided though...
 
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