Megs Glaze #7

G

Graphfixz

New member
Hey Guys,



How is this product suppose to work? I am applying it to the finish and it seems to smear allot and if I buff it... it seems to all come off?



Then I have areas that just drink up the stuff and still remain dull.



Is this the right way to use this?



Thanks!
 
#7 is difficult to use properly. It smears a lot, and never really dries. When you try to remove it, it just smears more. You need to apply it thin and have a bunch of MF towels ready. You will use more MFs removing #7 than you would with any wax/sealant I've used.



It does give a nice wet shine though.



Just make sure to apply it thinly and you'll be OK. Also, do one section at a time (a door, hood...) and remove it right away. If you take it off earlier, it will be a bit easier to remove.
 
what about the areas that just drink it up? Is there something else I should be using for that? Or am I just seeing things?
 
I think that problem would be solved if you used a polish before the #7. Although the bottle claims it is a polish, a true polish is abrasive.
 
I've never really had any problems using #7. I just put a little bit on a foam applicator and work it in to one area at a time. I've even applied to the hood, a fender and a door before I went back and removed it and never had a problem with it smearing. It's a lot easier to remove with a microfiber towel that is made like a cotton terry towel as well.



I think one of the main things here is barely using any of it. I've used it probably 5 or 6 times on a Taurus and it seems like I've barely made a dent in the bottle.
 
I definitely agree that it removes much easier with a MF towel than a cotton towel. The cotton will throw lint all over the place.
 
ok, I have tried Megs Deep Crystal Paint cleaner in an area and it seems to make the area a little white? The car is black.
 
I've had good luck with #7 and liked the finish on dark metallic blue,but as said,apply very thin coats with a foam pad. Also misting the pad with distilled water helps spread the thin coat out more evenly.Finally, if recall correctly,may be best to apply an oily product like 7 on a day with low humidity



When I was using Zaino,I learned something when some were complaining it was so difficult to remove and image this general truth can apply to most if not all product application..With Zaino of course you have to wait for it to dry,but generally they were applying it too thick and was told after application, should barely be able to see the product haze..



And I'll always remember the best advice.."If you think you're applying the product too thin,you're probably right on"



EJ
 
I use #3 (Machine Glaze) instead of #7 just because #3 was at the store at the time. I have followed the instructions that were in Mike's post, and have found he's right (of course) about going around the car several times (letting it "skin" and all). Those instructions work very well for me as far as application/removal. However, I have found that using any glaze on my white Maxima is really a moot point. It really does not add anything to the appearance when it is going to be finished with NXT/#16 (I have no swirls to fill, etc). However, on darker colors, it does add a very noticeable difference in appearance, making the paint wetter and darker (my neighbor's and mother-in-law's vehicles I have done). This is something you may want to keep in mind when using a glaze. If I owned a dark color, I would definitely use it regularly after a good polishing with #82 and prior to my NXT/#16. Once you master the application/removal technique, a glaze is worth it for darker colors.



Just my thoughts.



Dave
 
I see #7 Glaze on the review pages as a polish and as such, isn't it suppose to remove fine scratches created by paint cleaners?



BTW, thanks for all your help and advice. I am starting to see clearly what the products I have do.
 
Graphfixz, I've used #7 successfully using Mike Phillips method of allowing it to skin, etc.



The comment you made about the pre-wax cleaner making the black paint go white caught my attention.



You don't give much info about the age and condition of your car but, I wonder if your paint (if old) is starting to fail in certain areas...this would explain the matt/drinking-it-up/going-white results you're experiencing. The cleaner could be building up in the micro-crazing of failing paint.



Then again, it could be something totally different. :hm



I found another pre-wax glaze that you may wish to try that produces stunning results, and that is much under-rated, IMO. I know it's not very fashionable and a simple OTC product, etc., etc., ad nauseum, but I would recommend you try Mothers Sealer and Glaze. It contains similar beautifying ingredients to #7, like polishing oils and kaoline clay, but is simple to use, dries and buffs off without effort, with an excellent cosmetic result.



Here's a car I did using Mothers' S&G, topped with S100. BTW, the finish was liquid, glossy, and deep, from S&G before applying S100.



This is twelve year old paint.



17477smhpim2851.jpg




17477smhpim2884.jpg




17477smhpim2969.jpg
 
From my own experience with #7, (and glazes in general, I think) for dark colors, it would deepen the reflectivity, though not that dramatically, but for light colors, i.e. the extreme white, it would not add reflectivity but the paint would tend to sparkle because of the high TS oil content of this product. In the middle, as in my case (silver) a balanced of reflectivity and sparkle is achieved. But nevertheless, I would really love this product as it compares to the shine and reflectivity of #80 but with no abrasives. It's like applying #80 by "hand" gently. Comparing side by side with #81 which is also a pure polish (or glaze), I find #7 "oilier" at night with streetlamp reflections...



It's funny this thread pops up, as I have just performed the side by side comparison (both sides of the hood) of #7 and #81, several hours before...



If you don't want to go into the hassle of applying #7 by "skinning" you may just want to consider #81 which is also a pure polish and no noticeable difference in the sun (at least if you're not keen to details)...:D
 
For a "daily driver", I feel that #7 is sort of a waste of time. It adds no protection. But on a "show car", the deep wet look is great. I first used #7 in 1970. It was recommended to me by a friend who professionally restored and showed Packards. I think that I still have my original bottle. :D



Tom:cool:
 
ok, I figured out why I got smears on my paint using #7. I guess the CC is gone right down the middle of the hood. The sides look great! Nice, shinny, wet! the middle? Smeared!
 
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