stiege said:
Holy cow!! I wetsanded, compounded, polished, glazed and waxed the hood and fenders of my 68 Galaxie ss black. OMG, it looks fabulous. No orange peel, super smooth paint and a ridiculously deep shine.
:showpics
I used #7 with a white pad and the pc. I let it sit for 20 minutes, buffed it off (kind of tough to do) and used the black pad to apply a nice thin coat of #26.
You don't need to let #7 skin after applying. (I know this might be confusing, but bare with me).
Two ways to apply and remove #7 Show Car Glaze.
1) Section by section, or panel by panel
2) Apply to entire car the remove all at once
Either way, you apply a thin coat and work it into the finish thoroughly. Immediately after you have worked it in, start removing it. I prefer a nice, soft, fluffy terry cloth towel for the first pass. For this first pass, don't try to remove it all like a wax, just remove most of it and move on to the rest of the panel, or the rest of the car.
After you have made the first pass and removed most of of the #7 Show Car Glaze,
while you were moving on, the residual film of #7 Show Car Glaze will have skinned to some degree, helping to make your next pass at removing it a little easier. For subsequent pases, if you have some high quality microfiber polishing cloths, switch over to these for the second and third pass.
The idea is to remove most of it using the
nap of the terry cloth towel as the little cotton loops will help to break up the oily, continuous film of the #7 enabling you to remove it with less struggling. The oily residue you have left behind will now wipe of much easier, and without having to fight it using a microfiber polishing cloth, or a new, clean, soft cotton towel.
Part of what you're trying to do is to remove the product without instilling any towel scratches and without struggling. Sometimes a little technique goes a long way.
Also, in my experience, because the #7 is quite rich in polishing oils, it is better, sometimes faster after you have the technique down, to remove the #7 with 2-3 passes, versus one pass.
After you have remove the #7, then apply your wax. If you're using #26, you want to apply a thin coat and allow it to dry until it swipes clear using the
How to tell when a Meguiar's wax is ready to remove - The Swipe Test
If you read the label on the #26 it states that this wax dries clear. Next time you apply this product, using a thin coating, let at least 15 minutes pass and then
look at it, if your experience is anything like mine, you will notice it is a very clear wax, that is, it has not dried opaque, or whitish. This can make knowing when to remove it difficult because it doesn't ever really dry to a haze, it more or less always looks like it a little wet, because it's clear.
Thus, the reason to use the Swipe Test. Apply a thin, uniform coating and then remove with a clean, soft premium quality microfiber polishing cloth, or a clean, soft 100% cotton terry cloth towel.
It really looks great and beads really well, but if I rub my finger on it it smears. Will the #26 paste be harder?
When it comes to the Meguiar's line of waxes, there is no difference between liquids and pastes versions. It's merely a matter of preference
Should I just buy a can of #16? What has been your experience with #16 over #7? Also, since this car sits out, can I use something harder like Collinite over the #7?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Also, what would be the best qd for the #7/?? combo?
#16 doesn't leave the finish looking as rich as the 26, but it does leave a nice high gloss finish.
Hope this helps...
Mike
)