mazda hood - which direction does the paint go?
- Thread starter DuMouixe
- Start date
imported_steveo3002
New member
the paint should be totaly even in all directions..its not like its aplied by a brush!
have a good read on here and you will find out you dont have to induce any maring when washing/cleaning if you follow a strict regime
have a good read on here and you will find out you dont have to induce any maring when washing/cleaning if you follow a strict regime
SpoiledMan
New member
DuMouixe said:
Did you get my PM? Still want to meet up?
I'm not trying to suggest anyone treat there cars like a piece of wood.
since you asked, the direction in which the orig. paint is applied.
the hood is tricky, it seems like it's painted from different directions.
I prolly need to grab a flourescent work light and try and figure it out.
just thinking the less I scratch it, the less I have to polish. or at least go with the
natural flow of what is there to start with and it will blend in better, then just make that my routine for this vehicle.
btw, I've decide to ditch the Orange County Southern California Mazda Dealer Service Located in Tustin California and start taking my car to a INDY for all the service. at the 7,500 mile interval, a $79 visit, they put in too much oil, overfilled the coolant, rotated the tires, didn't balance them, then scratched a wheel, and a three more minor dents. Yeah, an indy unless something major goes wrong.
since you asked, the direction in which the orig. paint is applied.
the hood is tricky, it seems like it's painted from different directions.
I prolly need to grab a flourescent work light and try and figure it out.
just thinking the less I scratch it, the less I have to polish. or at least go with the
natural flow of what is there to start with and it will blend in better, then just make that my routine for this vehicle.
btw, I've decide to ditch the Orange County Southern California Mazda Dealer Service Located in Tustin California and start taking my car to a INDY for all the service. at the 7,500 mile interval, a $79 visit, they put in too much oil, overfilled the coolant, rotated the tires, didn't balance them, then scratched a wheel, and a three more minor dents. Yeah, an indy unless something major goes wrong.
yes, but this weekend might be bad unless you can swing by my work, I can
take off a few and run across to the osh parking lot and meet up.
I'm not trying to suggest anyone treat there cars like a piece of wood.
since you asked, the direction in which the orig. paint is applied.
the hood is tricky, it seems like it's painted from different directions.
I prolly need to grab a flourescent work light and try and figure it out.
just thinking the less I scratch it, the less I have to polish. or at least go with the
natural flow of what is there to start with and it will blend in better, then just make that my routine for this vehicle.
btw, I've decide to ditch the Orange County Southern California Mazda Dealer Service Located in XXXXX
and start taking my car to a INDY for all the service. at the 7,500 mile interval, a $79 visit, they put in too much oil,
overfilled the coolant, rotated the tires, didn't balance them, then scratched a wheel, and a three more minor dents.
Yeah, an indy unless something major goes wrong.
take off a few and run across to the osh parking lot and meet up.
I'm not trying to suggest anyone treat there cars like a piece of wood.
since you asked, the direction in which the orig. paint is applied.
the hood is tricky, it seems like it's painted from different directions.
I prolly need to grab a flourescent work light and try and figure it out.
just thinking the less I scratch it, the less I have to polish. or at least go with the
natural flow of what is there to start with and it will blend in better, then just make that my routine for this vehicle.
btw, I've decide to ditch the Orange County Southern California Mazda Dealer Service Located in XXXXX
and start taking my car to a INDY for all the service. at the 7,500 mile interval, a $79 visit, they put in too much oil,
overfilled the coolant, rotated the tires, didn't balance them, then scratched a wheel, and a three more minor dents.
Yeah, an indy unless something major goes wrong.
SpoiledMan
New member
Do you see ghosting of the paint on your hood? What wash tools are you using?
not sure what you mean by ghosting...
washing, using a sheepskin mit, over flowing garden sprayer pool using nxt wash mixture to counter my hard water, mit rinsed frequently, double bucket, doing the hood first, trunk, roof, sides, bumpers and rocker panels with a body brush while doing my wheels. (need foam gun & bhb )
drying with air as much as possible. viking mf drying towel on panels, definately need more
high quality drying towels. using the costco cheappy mf's on wheels and windows, cause I can use them once, then religate them to wheels, use them twice on the wheels and toss. (need a smaller dedicated blower - using the garden one)
one thing for sure, is I will be doing the windows with a soft brush and water/solution in the future, seems much easier and scratches less.
washing, using a sheepskin mit, over flowing garden sprayer pool using nxt wash mixture to counter my hard water, mit rinsed frequently, double bucket, doing the hood first, trunk, roof, sides, bumpers and rocker panels with a body brush while doing my wheels. (need foam gun & bhb )
drying with air as much as possible. viking mf drying towel on panels, definately need more
high quality drying towels. using the costco cheappy mf's on wheels and windows, cause I can use them once, then religate them to wheels, use them twice on the wheels and toss. (need a smaller dedicated blower - using the garden one)
one thing for sure, is I will be doing the windows with a soft brush and water/solution in the future, seems much easier and scratches less.
not sure what you mean by ghosting...
washing, using a sheepskin mit, over flowing garden sprayer pool using nxt wash mixture to counter my hard water, mit rinsed frequently, double bucket, doing the hood first, trunk, roof, sides, bumpers then rocker panels with a body brush while doing my wheels, I actually do the wheels first. (need foam gun & bhb )
drying with air as much as possible. viking mf drying towel on panels, definately need more
high quality drying towels. using the costco cheappy mf's on wheels and windows, cause I can use them once, then religate them to wheels, use them twice on the wheels and toss. (need a smaller dedicated blower - using the garden one)
one thing for sure, is I will be doing the windows with a soft brush and water/solution in the future, seems much easier and scratches less.
washing, using a sheepskin mit, over flowing garden sprayer pool using nxt wash mixture to counter my hard water, mit rinsed frequently, double bucket, doing the hood first, trunk, roof, sides, bumpers then rocker panels with a body brush while doing my wheels, I actually do the wheels first. (need foam gun & bhb )
drying with air as much as possible. viking mf drying towel on panels, definately need more
high quality drying towels. using the costco cheappy mf's on wheels and windows, cause I can use them once, then religate them to wheels, use them twice on the wheels and toss. (need a smaller dedicated blower - using the garden one)
one thing for sure, is I will be doing the windows with a soft brush and water/solution in the future, seems much easier and scratches less.
SpoiledMan
New member
DuMouixe said:
From this description it seems as though the paint is uneven in application. Am I understanding this wrong?
Accumulator
Well-known member
There's no directional nature to the paint on any of my vehicles with the possible exception of the single stage metallic on the poorly (factory) painted Jag, which is pretty weird in spots. The machines that paint today's vehicles (including Mazdas) aren't gonna produce anything directional. Sure isn't anything like that on my MPV, and I've looked at it with magnification.
Oh, and fluorescent lights only work for spotting the most egregious marring (except on white for some reason). Halogens, or better yet high-wattage incandescents will show stuff that you'll *never* see under fluorescents.
Oh, and I trust the Mazda dealer had your wheel refinished after they scratched it; that's the least they could do.
Oh, and fluorescent lights only work for spotting the most egregious marring (except on white for some reason). Halogens, or better yet high-wattage incandescents will show stuff that you'll *never* see under fluorescents.
Oh, and I trust the Mazda dealer had your wheel refinished after they scratched it; that's the least they could do.
Just noticed the wheel yesterday at wheel cleaning time. we had some
rain so they were covered in grime. I'm not taking it back to Mazda
unless there's a major problem. I can't possibly run down all their
hacking on, in and around. I will fix the stuff that bugs me the most and
send them an invoice, which they will most likely not pay.
I scatched one on a curb myself parking and another has a 'mystery bruise'.
Or indent, so, 'they're just wheels.' I have been careful, the damage isn't
terrible. The one they most recently hacked has a rachet spin out on it.
I'm just tired of them making my car their own personal diorama or fashion
statement. (( someone should inform them that they're not car deities ))
3 trips, 3 bad services, if I do anything, it will be sue the dealer personally
for harrassment, not sure how the laws are set up AND I have WAY better thing
to do with my time. So I will prolly just let it go.
Assuming the AutoClub approved shop I talked to can do a comprehensive job...
I just need to keep the maintenance well documented and thourough in case I DO
need the warranty repair later. There's a $100 deductible on the road hazard warranty,
through Mazda, but they may not cover exterior metal damage.
There's a shop that reconditions factory wheels for around $110 ea. w/exchange.
Which is pretty reasonable, & no Mazda to deal with. Might see about that _OR_
if it's not too too pricey chrome _OR_ if they can have a set pewter, bronze or custom,
then do that. buy accent trim(s) to match, where the chrome would normally go.
I know it sounds weird, but I saw a Range Rover with the pewter trim and it
was pretty low-key. I didn't want to do to much customizing on this vehicle, just
talk at this point.
Unless I get some ahold of some Wurth and filler. Can most likely be patched, painted and polished out.
rain so they were covered in grime. I'm not taking it back to Mazda
unless there's a major problem. I can't possibly run down all their
hacking on, in and around. I will fix the stuff that bugs me the most and
send them an invoice, which they will most likely not pay.
I scatched one on a curb myself parking and another has a 'mystery bruise'.
Or indent, so, 'they're just wheels.' I have been careful, the damage isn't
terrible. The one they most recently hacked has a rachet spin out on it.
I'm just tired of them making my car their own personal diorama or fashion
statement. (( someone should inform them that they're not car deities ))
3 trips, 3 bad services, if I do anything, it will be sue the dealer personally
for harrassment, not sure how the laws are set up AND I have WAY better thing
to do with my time. So I will prolly just let it go.
Assuming the AutoClub approved shop I talked to can do a comprehensive job...
I just need to keep the maintenance well documented and thourough in case I DO
need the warranty repair later. There's a $100 deductible on the road hazard warranty,
through Mazda, but they may not cover exterior metal damage.
There's a shop that reconditions factory wheels for around $110 ea. w/exchange.
Which is pretty reasonable, & no Mazda to deal with. Might see about that _OR_
if it's not too too pricey chrome _OR_ if they can have a set pewter, bronze or custom,
then do that. buy accent trim(s) to match, where the chrome would normally go.
I know it sounds weird, but I saw a Range Rover with the pewter trim and it
was pretty low-key. I didn't want to do to much customizing on this vehicle, just
talk at this point.
Unless I get some ahold of some Wurth and filler. Can most likely be patched, painted and polished out.
Okay, I'll get a 250W bulb and see if I can see anything. Not really
expecting much, I just noticed when polishing the hood on a 4x2
square it was like coagulated, in a couple spots, like I was in the 60's,
with lots of ghosting, maybe that's the shadowing thing Accumulator's mentioning.
Seems, get-able. Meaning, it can be corrected if approached correctly.
The front of the hood seems like it wants me to wipe vertical. horizontal seems okay
for the back of the hood though, see?? how odd.
expecting much, I just noticed when polishing the hood on a 4x2
square it was like coagulated, in a couple spots, like I was in the 60's,
with lots of ghosting, maybe that's the shadowing thing Accumulator's mentioning.
Seems, get-able. Meaning, it can be corrected if approached correctly.
The front of the hood seems like it wants me to wipe vertical. horizontal seems okay
for the back of the hood though, see?? how odd.
Accumulator
Well-known member
socalmz3- IMO that's just the (don't take this the wrong way) quality of the paintjob. The paintjob on my MPV is pretty awful, with all sorts of flaws I'd never expect on a new vehicle these days. Metallics sometimes show initial-build-quality stuff worse than solid colors because any variation in the metallic element can catch your eye. But I figure I got what I paid for; there's a reason why it was so affordable and the overall build-quality pretty much explains the reasonable purchase price.
I've heard of all kinds of troubles that can happen with today's automated painting systems, especially when they change from one color to the next or start up the line after a pause in production.
I've heard of all kinds of troubles that can happen with today's automated painting systems, especially when they change from one color to the next or start up the line after a pause in production.
imported_chpsk8
New member
Hood, doors and trunk are painted off line in a booth to the sides of the body. After paint and cure hey are remated at different times in the assembly process.
There is no "grain" to the paint. Washing downweb or crossweb will not make a difference. It sounds like you need to use some more gentle techniques in your washing process. Perhaps new mitts and a two bucket method.
Do you have any protection on the vehicle now? Wax sealant etc...?
What car wash solution are you using currently?
There is no "grain" to the paint. Washing downweb or crossweb will not make a difference. It sounds like you need to use some more gentle techniques in your washing process. Perhaps new mitts and a two bucket method.
Do you have any protection on the vehicle now? Wax sealant etc...?
What car wash solution are you using currently?
FMJ/S100, a garage queen. Washing with NXT wash.
I have a laundry list of detailing stuff I can upgrade to, thanks to this place.
Yeah, the mazda is just a value oriented vehicle, bang for the buck, type deal. Very nicely appointed for their segment, fun to drive. Next time, I'll just get the Ford, in white and stress less, lol. Or a Teutonic offering... those guys are now throwing in free maintenance, not too shabby.
I have a laundry list of detailing stuff I can upgrade to, thanks to this place.
Yeah, the mazda is just a value oriented vehicle, bang for the buck, type deal. Very nicely appointed for their segment, fun to drive. Next time, I'll just get the Ford, in white and stress less, lol. Or a Teutonic offering... those guys are now throwing in free maintenance, not too shabby.