Marring Swirls and a Rotary

S

Silli

New member
I have done a lot trying to remove the marring and swirls on my Indie Blue metallic Mini Cooper S. That's including scratchX by hand over the whole car and #9 using a cheap orbital polisher with a shoertnapped terry bonnet. Both have helped a little but nothing close to a swirlfree finish. The swirls are moderate, the car is 1 year old.



I have access to a professional rotary polisher which has speeds from 750rpm and beyond. Is there anything an untrained nonprofessional detailer (me) could do with a machine like that to remove the marring and swirls? Could it be safe using #9, Speed Glaze, Swirl Free Polish or even DACP with a 'proper' pad at low speeds?



The PC is not sold in Finland(europe) and it cannot be ordered from the US because of different voltages in our countries. Not that I would have the cash for it either right now.





Thanks,

Silli
 
like everyone says, try the least abrasive way then work your way up. My guess for least abrasive is either #9 or SFP (I read that they're the same) with a white pad. DACP would be the most abrasive out of the four.
 
Okay, I watched the videos and one of my terms were wrong. I don't have sirlmarks or buffermarks. I have cobwebbing.



I'm still a little bit afraid to buff with a rotary...



Maybe I have to try again by hand? What would be a good product for use by hand? (Autoglym or Meguiar's)





.silli
 
DACP/#83 is going to be your best choice for hand removal w/o going to a much more aggressive cleaner, and for cobwebbing you should not need anything stronger.



DACP works as both a cleaner & polish (Dual Action) and it needs to break-down. What that means is that you will rub away while it's wet, then continue until it turns to a powder (breaking down) and your done. Wipe off the area with a MF and possible QD if it's difficult. You should now have removed the cobwebbing. Do a small section at a time. Check your progress as you polish so you don't have to polish more than you have to.



You should do well...



Regards,

Deanski
 
~One man’s opinion / observations ~



When you’re ready fro a Random Orbital Buffer you might want to look into a German Flex (German version of a PC)



I don’t know what products are readily available (non-Internet) but I think Autoglym may be, if so try their Cutting Polish (it’s a lot milder than the word ‘cutting’ implies)



Let us know how it turns out.





~Hope this helps~



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon

justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *
 
Deanski said:
Silli,



Before you attempt it via rotary, please go to this site for links to Meguiar's "How to remove paint defects" videos. You will need RealPlayer.



Meguiar's How to remove paint defects video



Better if on broadband.



Regards,

Deanski
Click to expand...



Ditto everything Deanski said and if you are really set on going ahead with the rotary please practice on a beater or get a body panel from a scrap yard and practice before you take the rotary to your Mini.
 
TOGWT said:
~One man’s opinion / observations ~



When you’re ready fro a Random Orbital Buffer you might want to look into a German Flex (German version of a PC)



I don’t know what products are readily available (non-Internet) but I think Autoglym may be, if so try their Cutting Polish (it’s a lot milder than the word ‘cutting’ implies)



Let us know how it turns out.





~Hope this helps~



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon

justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *
Click to expand...



I know about Flex and AFAIK they don't carry the "PC" Orbital in their line. The Finnish importer confirmed Flex don't have any orbital models available. :(



I'll try out DACP if it works by hand. I don't mind if it takes a little elbow grease, I want the scratches out! It's a small car anyway :) Actually only the hood, trunk, bumpers and the upper parts of the sides needs to be processed. The lower parts either don't have any scratches or they are in an angle that they are totally invisible.



Do I have to be afraid of thinning the clearcoat? Even if I get the courage to get to work with the rotary?



What if I run extremely carefully at minimum speed(750rpm) with the rotary and a polishing pad? Wouldn't this still be better than by hand? And quite safe?





Is there anywhere something to read about using the rotary? The videos mentioned earlier gave some basics...





Thanks to everyone for your input!



.silli
 
Silli,



Buffing it is not about going to slow. It's about using the right speed/pad/product combination and using good technique.



If you go too slow with a product, you will not be able to break it down properly and will end up with a hazy / swirled finished.



If you go to high speed, it will break it up too quickly and just gum up the pad and not fix the problem.



If you go to high speed or use bad technique, you can burn through the paint.



Buffing is a real art. Dual Action is very easy.



Paco
 
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