Making my PC work better

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imported_Reflections

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The first few times I used my PC to correct swirling, I would use a polishing pad with a polish like sfx-2, spread it on speed 1-2, then go over the surface at speed 3, then again at maybe 4.5, with very minimal pressure. I remember reading that you should use very little pressure with the PC. This would help reduce the visibility of the swirls, but they were always still there.



A couple of days ago, I was working on a black 05 rsx type s with very heavy swirling and holograms. I went over it with Menzerna IP using the process above, and again, it reduced the swirls but they were still there. I used the IP again, with my white SFX pad, spread it around half the hood on speed 2, then jacked it up to 4, made a pass, then up to 6, and made another pass. The PC wanted to jump around a lot, so I applied moderate pressure, and suddenly it started just gliding arouund the surface. It took a lot of care and control to keep it from bouncing around, but I got the hang of it pretty quick. I wiped off the polish, and the swirls were gone. Absolutely gone. These are the kind of swirls I figured I would need rotary to fully eliminate after all that I've read on this forum, and they were 100% gone. There was a slight hazing left over. I went over it with FPII, again finishing on speed 6, using a moderate amount of pressure, and afterwards the hood looked like glass. I didn't know the PC was capable of this kind of correction, but I sure am glad I figured it out.



How many of you jack your PC up to speed 6 like this? Do you use a downward pressure? This think this pretty much eliminates any spinning action of the pad, which is what I was so careful to avoid before. Any suggestions/comments on how to best use this tool? Until I did this car, I thought I had it mostly figured out.



The next day my left (handle) hand was bruised from the vibration. I have the counter-weight that comes with the DAS PC Polisher kit from Autopia. Is there a better one to use with the SFX pads and the 6 inch backing plate? Thanks for any input for an inexperienced nooblar.
 
I do virtually *all* my PC polishing on 6 (start it at 4 but immediately turn it up). I too apply some pressure. To keep it doing the full d/a motion, try using smaller pads. If you don't already have the 6" counterweight (pn 699933 from Porter Cable, (888) 848-5175), get one. Smaller backing plates and pads (I use the 2.75" flex pad, not that it flexes much, and 4" pads) will make it much more effective and efficient for correction.



The less weight (from pads and plate) the less likely the PC will bog down under pressure.
 
Agreed. I do all of my polishing on 6 as well. The 4" pads can really stand up to some pressure while they remain spinning.
 
just to go along with everyone else... 4" pads plus moderate pressure work great for me. I also use speed 6. any lower and it takes forever to remove defects.
 
I agree with everyone else and do a couple passes at 4.5-5 then go right up to 6 with a decent amount of pressure.



Not to undermine your work, but Acuras have really soft paint, so correcting them is by no means hard. I've worked on quite a few neglected NBP paints and OCP with an orange light cutting pad via PC, really cleans up everything.
 
Awesome thanks for the input everyone. Yeah I did notice the paint was softer than other cars I've worked on. I have some 4 inch pads as well, and the 2.5 inch backing plate for them, or whatever the exact size is. I use them for spot correction and difficult areas like around the sunroof, or around tail lights. Is it really practical to use them for the whole car? And I don't know which counterweight I have, I will have to have a look I guess.
 
Reflections said:
I have some 4 inch pads..Is it really practical to use them for the whole car?
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Yeah, it can be when you need the added oomph. But you might not need that on the soft paint.
 
It may be FASTER to use the 4" pads on the whole car. You may cover a smaller area at a time, but you can work faster. So it's a toss up.
 
I use the 4" pads for spot corrections very carefully. I've had them spin off of the backing plate WHILE polishing on high speed (6) with lighter pressure, so that fear is always in my mind. For larger surfaces, I use the LC 7.5" pads with the recessed back so the backing plate sits IN the pad. I use moderate pressure to right at the point the PC starts bogging down, and speed at 6. With the PC, I don't think the actual spinning of the pad is as important as the jiggling of it. I've yet to have a problem removing swirls or light scratches (non-fingernail catching ones) with a LC yellow and #83 this way.



Dave
 
Dave Holmes said:
I use the 4" pads for spot corrections very carefully. I've had them spin off of the backing plate WHILE polishing on high speed (6) with lighter pressure, so that fear is always in my mind. For larger surfaces, I use the LC 7.5" pads with the recessed back so the backing plate sits IN the pad. I use moderate pressure to right at the point the PC starts bogging down, and speed at 6. With the PC, I don't think the actual spinning of the pad is as important as the jiggling of it. I've yet to have a problem removing swirls or light scratches (non-fingernail catching ones) with a LC yellow and #83 this way.



Dave
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Not to take the thread off topice, but Dave what do you mean by "I've had them spin off?" I recently used 4" pads that I got in the Spot Buffs kit for the first time with my PC. I used the adapter and backing plate that came in the kit. I spread the polish around at 3 as I always do. I then turned it up to five and BOOM! The backing plate immediately spun off the adapter and the adapter went straight down into my hood completely removing all paint in an area about the size of a nickel and making a small dent. I'm currently in conversation with Lake Country to determine the nature of the malfunction. Hopefully, they'll volunteer to pay for the repair since their malfunctioning product caused it.



Anyway, Dave is this what happens to you?
 
Mikeyc said:
Not to take the thread off topice, but Dave what do you mean by "I've had them spin off?" I recently used 4" pads that I got in the Spot Buffs kit for the first time with my PC. I used the adapter and backing plate that came in the kit. I spread the polish around at 3 as I always do. I then turned it up to five and BOOM! The backing plate immediately spun off the adapter and the adapter went straight down into my hood completely removing all paint in an area about the size of a nickel and making a small dent. I'm currently in conversation with Lake Country to determine the nature of the malfunction. Hopefully, they'll volunteer to pay for the repair since their malfunctioning product caused it.



Anyway, Dave is this what happens to you?
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Wow, I was gonna get the SM Arnold 3.5" pads, but now I'm scared to use small pads. :lol



Funny I don't remember reading about people having problems w/ small pad flying off the adapter in previous threads. Is this something new???



Peace.
 
Mikeyc,



I've kinda had that happen to my old PC with my full size pads. The spindle on the PC literally snapped off, causing backing plate and all to launch through the air. I was extremely lucky that it flew off to the side and missed my car. Detailer's Paradise (excellent service) replaced the PC when my wife called them about sourcing the new part. That was excellent customer service, when it was a manufacturer's problem.

The problem I've had with the 4" spot pads is them just flying off the backing plate. It may just be the velcro on my backing plate doesn't hold well. It has happened a few times, and may have just been some freakish accident. But it definitely has caught my attention. Don't get me wrong, I love using the 4" pads for spot work. I'm just extremely cautious when doing it. Which would preclude me from doing an entire car with them (at my age, my old heart couldn't take the "excitement" for that long).



Dave
 
The only time ive had a problem with the pad comming off the backing plate is when the machine as at a weird angle. Today I had a pad come off when I was doing the underside of my painted mirrors. Thankfully i sorta felt it going and i pulled the machine away from the paint as the pad flew off. I wouldnt want to see the marks that an un-padded backing plate makes in paint...
 
So with the PC at 6, how do you keep product from flying everywhere when you start? Maybe I'm using too much. I usually work at speed 5 and everything is fine but notch it up to 6 and product starts flinging everywhere. <<<<<<<<PC>>>>>>>>
 
Spread the product first on low speed. Once the product is spread in a thin film across the panel, you can bump it up to 6 without much, or any, sling.

Some products that are very thin will need to spread pretty thin and evenly to avoid sling at high speed.
 
As maxy said, you're going to have to spread the product first on a low speed setting before you kick it up to speed 6. I also spread the product across the paint with the machine off also. I haven't had any splatter issues.
 
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