M105 question
- Thread starter Saleenfan
- Start date
Holden_C04
New member
It is intended for use with a rotary polisher. They don't make wool pads for the PC so you would be stuck with like a Yellow pad from LC. If you were to do that, I would recommend you use 4" rather than 6.5" pads so you get at least SOME correction.
You can easily get more than just some correction. This was 8 year old paint that had never been touched before. Lots of scratches, lots of oxidation, and extremely swirled. Notice in the hood before there was no definition in the light. Look at it afterwards and it came out like a mirror. Don't worry about using it with a PC...it works fine.
Before:
After:
Before: (the whole side looked like this)
After:
Before:
After:
Before: (the whole side looked like this)
After:
Saleenfan said:
TSC17 said:
Just tried it today with a G110. Same process as TSC17. The polish broke down after two passes (one vertical and one horizontal) and took out 90% of my swirls/scratches on a black Explorer. I took some half and half pics because it was drastic but my camera skills are bad and in full sun you can't really see **** except the reflection. I did a Prep-All wipe down (this stuff is cool) and ZERO filling. Use very little polish and prime the pad with a QD or pad conditioner. If you use to much it will dust and you will need to clean your pad often as well as use multiple pads.
imported_Denzil
New member
It's quite interesting that M105 seems to perform very well with the PC! It makes me think I should attempt M105 with a PC first before the rotary.
Great results by the way TSC! I take it that the Chrysler paint was pretty hard?
Great results by the way TSC! I take it that the Chrysler paint was pretty hard?
This thread makes me wonder something.....
If M105 finishes down so nicely with the PC...even with an orange pad, then I can't help but wonder if you could get away with using M105 + White LC pad + PC and go straight to LSP. Obviously it would depend on how the paint reacts, but in some situations, this could be a huge time saver with very good correction with the PC (if it would finish nice enough with White pad).
If M105 finishes down so nicely with the PC...even with an orange pad, then I can't help but wonder if you could get away with using M105 + White LC pad + PC and go straight to LSP. Obviously it would depend on how the paint reacts, but in some situations, this could be a huge time saver with very good correction with the PC (if it would finish nice enough with White pad).
SuperBee364
New member
CleanGSR, there's no doubt that the way M105 finishes is a true breakthrough for such a heavy compound. It's one of the biggest hitters out there, and yet it finishes better than compounds with alot less omph. However, it is far, far, far from being a finishing polish. The cool thing about M105 is that, when it's used properly, it leaves you with a finish that is immediately ready to be jeweled with the finest of finishing polishes (FPII or PO85RD, or even UF) with a jeweling pad. You can skip the intermediate polishing step (like PO106FF and a white pad), and go *straight* to jeweling.
As good as M105 is, it isn't a substitute for the gloss you can get with a real fine finishing polish and finishing pad.
If you're in a hurry, and a hologram free, defect and swirl free finish is good enough, then sure, slap on some LSP and call it a day. But you'll be able to put a much better glow on the M105 finish with a final polishing job.
As good as M105 is, it isn't a substitute for the gloss you can get with a real fine finishing polish and finishing pad.
If you're in a hurry, and a hologram free, defect and swirl free finish is good enough, then sure, slap on some LSP and call it a day. But you'll be able to put a much better glow on the M105 finish with a final polishing job.
Greg Nichols
New member
I am in the process of restoring a boat that is pretty bad, I use 105 as my 2nd step, and DANG it really cleans up the paint nice, then I final polish it and stand back due to the shine!
I really like this stuff.
I really like this stuff.
SuperBee364 said:
Often when I'm in a hurry (most daily driver's around here just want the defects removed and looking clean) I'll use SSR2.5 w/ orange and follow with Poli-Seal which removes the haze very quickly. It sound like M105 w/ orange or white would be faster and remove more than the above process and I could still follow with poli-seal and it would cut my time down alot and give better results.
I think I'm going to order some M105 to use until I save enough for the rotary (would be good to have then too). I have a 4 door full size truck coming up soon it would be the prefect test bed for PC + M105 followed by PC + Poliseal.
SuperBee364
New member
CleanGSR said:
I've used the white LC foam, and it gave a very nice finish with the M105. You might want to consider the white instead of the orange, as the orange probably won't finish as well, and you really won't lose much correcting power using the white, cause M105 is so powerful.
The M105+PolySeal sounds like a real winning combo.
imported_Denzil
New member
SuperBee364 said:
Actually, this is what I was thinking of doing for a lot of 2-step situations. Sounds like a winning combo to me. :chuckle:
Junebug
JAFO
My first single stage white paint (Accord) was this past Saturday. I used a PC and a lot of 5.5" orange pads along with a few 4" - polished with IP followed by Poliseal. Did the job and the customer is HAPPY!