Looking at placing a PB order please critique

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01somta

New member
Vehicle: 2006 Ford F250 Crew Cab

Color: Dark Stone Metallic (Dark Charcoal Grey)

Problem: Water spots & truck was never detailed by previous owner

Shopping List:

Wash
Clay
PB Pro-polish 2
PB Pro-polish
PB Black Hole Show Glaze
PB World EX sealant with carnuba
 
I dont know that I would go for PP2 unless the paint needs some pretty serious correction. Ive never used it but from what Ive gathered, its pretty aggressive. Maybe Steve will chime in on this one. My go to polish for dark colors is SSR2. Its the glossiest polish Ive ever used and does wonders on any color. Pro Polish is a great polish as well though. Maybee try the EX-P sealant and top it with Nattys Blue wax. Your Charcoal Grey will look like you can swim in it :)
 
mrclean81 said:
I dont know that I would go for PP2 unless the paint needs some pretty serious correction. Ive never used it but from what Ive gathered, its pretty aggressive. Maybe Steve will chime in on this one. My go to polish for dark colors is SSR2. Its the glossiest polish Ive ever used and does wonders on any color. Pro Polish is a great polish as well though. Maybee try the EX-P sealant and top it with Nattys Blue wax. Your Charcoal Grey will look like you can swim in it :)
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So would I need the SSR2 and then the SSR1, followed by EX-P sealant, and then Nattys Blue?
 
what my go to now a days for metallic paint is this

Pro Polish
Polish with Carnuba Blue
Liquid Nattys Blue
and a few coats of Nattys White..

thats what seems to really bring the metallic flakes out and popping!
 
Will the pro-polish be aggressive enough to take care of the water spots, distilled white vinegar doesn't do anything to the water spots?? I'm serious when I say this truck has NEVER been waxed.
 
you never stated you process

hand, DA or rotary?

even with the best clay you will slightly mar the clear coat.
PP2 is more aggressive than PP1 and I feel it falls between SSR1 and SSR2, and if your doing this by hand i would scratch the PP2 for SSR1 or like Gus said Pro Polish and Polish with Carnuba Blue.

My flavor of choice for darker colors after polishings is EXP followed with Natty Blue, you get a rich deep gloss with depth of reflection, best of both worlds. all these products can be use in direct sun light just be cautious on the amount of product used.. the old adage "the more the better" does not work here, just enough to keep what ever you use lubricated.

Pro Polish is a chemical cleaner if it does not remove the water spotting the clear coat may be etched and require rotary polishing as long as the etching is not deep.

a while back Radio Shack sold a 10x light micro scope.. it would be a good choice to look at the surface real close to see the extent of the etching.
 
01somta said:
Will the pro-polish be aggressive enough to take care of the water spots, distilled white vinegar doesn't do anything to the water spots?? I'm serious when I say this truck has NEVER been waxed.
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if its that bad.. they wont come out.. you can hide them somewhat.. but they wont come out.. just got to learn to live with it..
 
Beercan31 said:
you never stated you process

hand, DA or rotary?

even with the best clay you will slightly mar the clear coat.
PP2 is more aggressive than PP1 and I feel it falls between SSR1 and SSR2, and if your doing this by hand i would scratch the PP2 for SSR1 or like Gus said Pro Polish and Polish with Carnuba Blue.

My flavor of choice for darker colors after polishings is EXP followed with Natty Blue, you get a rich deep gloss with depth of reflection, best of both worlds. all these products can be use in direct sun light just be cautious on the amount of product used.. the old adage "the more the better" does not work here, just enough to keep what ever you use lubricated.

Pro Polish is a chemical cleaner if it does not remove the water spotting the clear coat may be etched and require rotary polishing as long as the etching is not deep.

a while back Radio Shack sold a 10x light micro scope.. it would be a good choice to look at the surface real close to see the extent of the etching.
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Sorry I will be using a PC 7424xp
 
Gus-Gus said:
if its that bad.. they wont come out.. you can hide them somewhat.. but they wont come out.. just got to learn to live with it..
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I was able to hand polish a section out the size of a dollar bill using turtle was rubbing compound, followed by turtle wax polishing compound, followed by Megs Gold Glass wax.
 
PC 7424xp will do fine but I would get SSR1 and follow with PP1 topped EXP and Natty Blue... you'll love it.. and it will last a good amount of time.
 
I agree, with those above who mentioned the Pro Polish for attacking the the water spotting.

After that I take another path for metallic based paints. This is what is so tough about making recommendations so confusing even when the recommendations are within the same family of products. So the best thing will be to do a bit of experimenting to see just what pleases your eye.

I haven't tried any of the Poorboy's SSR products so I wont' make a recommendation. I will say that there are those who profess to be able to do a fair amount correcting using more aggressive pad combinations with Pro Polish. I have not, but I like the Pro Polish for general clean-up and as a base for other products.

Next I would opt for the EX-P over EX for maximum visual impact for your metallic paint. I also use EX and Polish w/Carnauba but are not my favorites not for mettallics. And I would also make another choice besides Natty's Blue. I've tried it, it looks nice but I would just opt for doing 2-3 applications of EX-P. Natty's White might be an option for a topper, but I've not used it either.
 
01somta said:
I was able to hand polish a section out the size of a dollar bill using turtle was rubbing compound, followed by turtle wax polishing compound, followed by Megs Gold Glass wax.
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How did it turn out after you did this? Were the water spots still there?
 
You are getting great comments on how to use the PB line up. Hereswhat Id do. 16oz ssr2.5,followed by PP2, followed by my old standby Polish with sealant, and top that with EX,EXP, or any of the nattys waxes, RED, a couplke coats follwed by a copuple coats of white. Never can have to much NATTYS right RON.
 
ok my two cents ....

I would get :

Pro Polish
PP2
Black Hole
EX-P
Natty's (optional)

here's the reasoning ...
if the water spots are not as bad as you think (using the right product and pad) then the Pro Polish should be enough ... if the water spots are that bad, you will need PP2 which will clean and level off the etching to make it at least very negligible. If they are out great, if there is a hint of them, the Black Hole will make them disappear and give depth and wetness to the paint. Then seal it in with EX-P ... Natty's (Red or Blue) would be optional, but on a big truck, I'm not sure you are looking for an extra step:)
 
Steve said:
ok my two cents ....

I would get :

Pro Polish
PP2
Black Hole
EX-P
Natty's (optional)

here's the reasoning ...
if the water spots are not as bad as you think (using the right product and pad) then the Pro Polish should be enough ... if the water spots are that bad, you will need PP2 which will clean and level off the etching to make it at least very negligible. If they are out great, if there is a hint of them, the Black Hole will make them disappear and give depth and wetness to the paint. Then seal it in with EX-P ... Natty's (Red or Blue) would be optional, but on a big truck, I'm not sure you are looking for an extra step:)
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Haha, Thanks. Which Lake Country pads should I use for each step? I was thinking about order 2 orange, 2 white, and 2 gray.
 
Ronkh said:
Truck.... 3 or 4 of each
or you're gonna be cleaning em often
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I agree with Ron. Chances are with the condition the truck is in now, those pads will get soiled quickly. One of the most important aspects of detailing is working clean. Just keep an eye on those pads after a few passes, if your instinct tells you it's time to swap for a new pad, then go with it. :bigups
 
I would use these combos to start, but it is not set in stone ... I do know Pro detailers that only use Red and Black and never anything more aggressive

Pro Polish ...start with white ...orange if needed
PP2 same as above
Black Hole...black pad
EX-P....red or black finessing pad
Natty's (optional)
 
I'm going to do all of the steps listed above, if I can't do it all in one day should I spray the truck down with a quick detailer before before continuing the 2nd day? If so what PB product is recommended for that?
 
Prefferable in one day except the ex-p should cure for 12 to 24 hrs before you do anything else over it.
 
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