Lightweight RO polisher Reccomendations??

[hacadacalopolis]

I am looking to find a replacement random orbit polisher that will keep physical fatigue at a minimum. I currently use HF item # 69924 and works great for everything personal.
I don`t need forced rotational unit like the FLEX, but really something more ergonomic for the hands, Lightweight decent quality machine.

 

[Ronkh]

rupes
or
gg boss

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Go with the Rupes 15 as it is more versatile than the 21.

 

[jrock645]

I also vote Rupes

 

[mikejames]

What about the Rupes LHR 12E Duetto “Big Foot” Random Orbital Polisher. It`s about the size of a mini but with a 5" backing plate and 12mm throw. That should help keep physical fatigue at a minimum and do quicker work then your HF polisher.

 

[Accumulator]

IMO full-size polishers like the Rupes & Griot`s 15/21 models aren`t the "lightweight" things Hacadacalopolis is looking for. Like mikejames, I`d think th LHR 12E Duetto is more like it. The Rupes mini comes to mind, but that might be a bit *too* mini...

Though it looks like a big, heavy beast of a thing, the Cyclo that I love so much comes to mind simply because *I* find it so ergonomic. I use mine one-handed all the time unless I need to apply downward pressure.

 

[Mary B]

Here`s a little info, hope it helps

This is a forum favorite and first on the list
Griot`s 6" RO. Takes standard 3", 5", 6" backing plate.
Comes with a 6" .

This is a forum standard. The PC.
she`s over 5lbs though

An outsider pick for 8mm. TorqX. Some rubberizing, thinner than others, allitle over 4lbs. Tough as nails.
I have this one. Standard 3", 5", 6" plates

12mm Longthrow, Rupes Duetto. 5" Rupes plate. Traditional
RO body. Just under 5lbs. Baby beast . Power. Results.

Longthrow, Griot`s Boss 15mm. Over 5lbs. Unique & robust.
I have this, practically runs itself. Except on verticals, where
the weight comes into play. 5" or 6" Boss plates.

Top dog longthrow. Rupes 15 markll. The innovator.
Over 5lbs. About as smooth as it gets.

German quality Longthrow. Flex XFE7 15mm.
This one is packin` some serious bells & whistles
at cost. Just over 5lbs.

Have fun.










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[rlmccarty2000]

I missed the lightweight thing. I just always say Rupes 15 because that is what works well for me. If you are looking for lighter weight go with the Rupes Duetto. You could use the Rupes Mini and the 4 inch Rupes pads, it`s got more than enough power to get the job done, it just might take a little longer to finish your job.

I hate that when someone asks the question "which is best?" then we say every polisher on the market as best. But the truth is if you buy one of the polishers mentioned in this thread you are unlikely to be disappointed. Ask the same thing about compounds, polishes, waxes, basically any detailing item and you will get our honest take on what we think is the best based on experience. You will soon find out in the detailing game that there are many ways to "skin a cat" and get great results.

 

[felixthecat]

I am looking to find a replacement random orbit polisher that will keep physical fatigue at a minimum. I currently use HF item # 69924 and works great for everything personal.
I don`t need forced rotational unit like the FLEX, but really something more ergonomic for the hands, Lightweight decent quality machine.

The Rupes duetto comes to mind & would fit the bill perfectly.

 

[danlc95]

The old school, first generation Porter Cable 7424 is a pretty nimble little tool.

I have three of them now, and they work beautifully. I bought them to do grunt work that I didn`t want my Duetto to do. Turns out that I got used to them, and for general purposes are the first thing I grab.

 

[Accumulator]

The old school, first generation Porter Cable 7424 is a pretty nimble little tool.

I have three of them now, and they work beautifully..

Heh heh, whereas both of mine (rebuilt a few times over the years) were utter, complete disappointments that never accomplished anything significant in a timely manner. Great for finish sanding, just no good IME for correcting autopaint. See how YMMV always keeps factoring in, and what a challenge it is to predict what somebody else is gonna have success with?!?

(The above is in NO way intended as criticism of danlc, just in case it came across that way.)

 

[danlc95]

Heh heh, whereas both of mine (rebuilt a few times over the years) were utter, complete disappointments that never accomplished anything significant in a timely manner. Great for finish sanding, just no good IME for correcting autopaint. See how YMMV always keeps factoring in, and what a challenge it is to predict what somebody else is gonna have success with?!?

(The above is in NO way intended as criticism of danlc, just in case it came across that way.)

No harm no foul.

I had a situation where a customer scheduled me to do a one step cleaner wax on one of the cabs of his bucket truck, and a polish + wax on his 70 Chevelle.... Just as I`m finishing the bucket truck I see him walk with a bowl of water to the Chevelle. I thought it was water for the dog. Nope. 1500 grit on that Chevelle.

He did have an old, rickety wen two speed rotary, but it wouldn`t move fast enough to do anything. It was burned out.

So there we were, with my 7424, green light cut pads, and M100. It worked. Firm light to moderate pressure, speed 6, and the job was done in about six hours. I finished with M66 on finishing pads, because I was wrecked after that. I had planned on a finishing polish /sealant initially.

I did other correction jobs successfully utilizing microfiber pads (rupes, meguiar`s) and D300, M100, or Ultimate Compound. These types of accessories were not available during the heyday of the original 7424.

I do agree though, YMMV.

 

[Accumulator]

danlc- I bet the M101 helped immensely Yeah, good point about how there weren`t many good (i.e., aggressive + nonrotary) products back then, though I never had good (i.e., timely ) results with M105 either (and yep, had plenty of advice from guys like Kevin and Barry). Just took too long, even with 4" pads, compared to my results with more aggressive machines. Did a direct comparison a while back between my PC/3" and my 3" GG pneumatic, the GG killed it.

(Not liking rotaries after my work at the dealership, I got a Cyclo that I still love, my "older one", but it wouldn`t accomodate the Jag`s curves so I got a PC...*?!?WT#?!?*... it simply didn`t do much of anything compared to the Cyclo and that was on ss lacquer! Even took it in for a look-see at the local repair place, figured something was wrong.)

Maybe I put extreme emphasis on "timely" since I successfully corrected deep fingernail scratches behind door handles *by hand* back then, which might be comparable to the 1500 (wielded by an amateur) on the Chevelle.

 

[danlc95]

danlc- I bet the M101 helped immensely Yeah, good point about how there weren`t many good (i.e., aggressive + nonrotary) products back then, though I never had good (i.e., timely ) results with M105 either (and yep, had plenty of advice from guys like Kevin and Barry). Just took too long, even with 4" pads, compared to my results with more aggressive machines. Did a direct comparison a while back between my PC/3" and my 3" GG pneumatic, the GG killed it.

(Not liking rotaries after my work at the dealership, I got a Cyclo that I still love, my "older one", but it wouldn`t accomodate the Jag`s curves so I got a PC...*?!?WT#?!?*... it simply didn`t do much of anything compared to the Cyclo and that was on ss lacquer! Even took it in for a look-see at the local repair place, figured something was wrong.)

Maybe I put extreme emphasis on "timely" since I successfully corrected deep fingernail scratches behind door handles *by hand* back then, which might be comparable to the 1500 (wielded by an amateur) on the Chevelle.

The M100 helped for sure, but the process was a dance. I used very, very little pressure in order to maximize rotation. From day one that I used a PC, by nature I approached in the same manner that I did with the rotary - light pressure, attentive hands. I also struck through paint the first time I used a PC.... Never once with a rotary. That was with the XP version though. Speed 6 with a green hex pad, and Ultimate Compound.

I`ve never ascribed to the idea that 15 lbs of pressure is necessary for defect removal, or that coating the pad surface with product before using will help do anything but prematurely saturate the pad. I`ve tried both, but the pressure decreased pad rotation, increased heat, and took much longer to remove the defects. The priming thing made me go through pads faster. Because right off the bat they`re getting a good dose of moisture. Instead of my usual two pads (with diligent cleaning) I was using five per step. Because the abrasive particles are microscopic, I only use enough product to create an even, light film over the section. Usually four drops on a dry pad, and reloading with anywhere from one to three.

I was basically using the recommended Rupes approach on my PC before I even knew what a Rupes was.

I still use some of those old products I I used with a rotary on my orbitals. Specifically M02 Fine-Cut Cleaner, and M09 Swirl Remover, and they work great! I wouldn`t want to be left with them as my only option though!

 

[hacadacalopolis]

Appreciate all the info fellas,
Mary b thanks for more product by product description, Flex does look nice.

 

[mikejames]

If you like the looks of the Flex here is another option.