Leather Steering Wheel Repair

C

capt512

New member
Hello Everyone,



I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner that has a tan leather steering wheel with heavy wear at the 12 o'clock position. It is past the point of conditioning and cleaning, however I am now trying to find the next best option.



I have searched the forums and found AGLA (alan gun leather accessories) listed a few places as a recommendation but then many many other bad reviews about them. Have seen the place in texas some recommend that recovers wheels but this truck is a DD so shipping the wheel off for a week won't work. I looked at Wheelskins covers, but it doesn't cover the spoke part of the wheel, and the color samples I had them send me aren't even close...and I can't find anyone that used a blk cover (only other contrasting color I can think of) on a tan wheel to see how bad that looks. Have tried 2 different highly recommended upholstry shops in my area and 1 won't touch steering wheels, the other only installs wheelskins. Have looked on ebay etc and can't find any tan replacements, and Toyota wants $900 w/o airbag!!!



So I am trying to find out if any of the restoration kits (like the leatherique kit, etc) work decently, or if I should just get the wheelskins that doesn't match and say oh well :(



07-27012a.jpg
 
It's repairer-able; the general structure of sequence is as follows:



1] Degreasing @ pH 2.2 > Rinse @ pH 3.0

2] Dry Preparation

3] Impregnation with a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator to restrengthen the leather structure.

4] Surface repair with a combination of Leather Stucco, Leather Bond and UV Strong Compact Resin Pigment.

5] Adhesion Coating.

6] UV Strong Color Compact Resin Pigment (custom color).

7] Urethane topcoat with matching luster - probably matte, although satin and gloss is available.

8] Non-stick Rub Resistance Protector with a non-slip grip, unlike the seats which uses a natural buttery smooth feel.



Interested to go into details of the why and how?



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
With the above structure of repair sequence, we give a 3 year warranty against material and workmanship.



We will also explain what causes the leather denaturing, and how to prevent such occurrence - the culprit is the urea contents in the sweat that causes the damages. How-to routinely or periodically neutralizes and bring down the pH value of the leather structure in the cycle of a maintenance program.



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Might I suggest looking in salvage yards, ebay, etc. to see if you can just find one in better shape to swap out? Might be cheaper and easier than going through the whole repair process....
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Might be cheaper and easier than going through the whole repair process....
Click to expand...



I agree, then aren't we auto detailer...rather than auto secondhand parts dealers?



What is the forte of a Automotive Appearance Specialist - does that includes the leather interiors too?





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Uh, what are you trying to imply here, Roger?
Click to expand...





The state of the art for Exterior Detailing and the Interior Detailing are worlds apart.



I am often surprised to see the beauty of exterior to be dismay with what I see for the interior - it didn't last with tell tale signs of sloppy repairs.



This is only a positive motivation to the right direction with more to offer to discerning owners…nothing personal.



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Roger Koh said:
It's repairer-able; the general structure of sequence is as follows:



1] Degreasing @ pH 2.2 > Rinse @ pH 3.0

2] Dry Preparation

3] Impregnation with a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator to restrengthen the leather structure.

4] Surface repair with a combination of Leather Stucco, Leather Bond and UV Strong Compact Resin Pigment.

5] Adhesion Coating.

6] UV Strong Color Compact Resin Pigment (custom color).

7] Urethane topcoat with matching luster - probably matte, although satin and gloss is available.

8] Non-stick Rub Resistance Protector with a non-slip grip, unlike the seats which uses a natural buttery smooth feel.



Interested to go into details of the why and how?



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
Click to expand...





And I have miss out the importance of Hydrating the leather 1a) prior to dry prep; thereafter rejuvenate it for softness - with the "life-blood of leather" - a pH 5.0 Fatliquor.



Otherwise without fatliquoring it, it will continue to crack!





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Roger Koh said:
The state of the art for Exterior Detailing and the Interior Detailing are worlds apart.



I am often surprised to see the beauty of exterior to be dismay with what I see for the interior - it didn't last with tell tale signs of sloppy repairs.
Click to expand...



Proper or improper repairs to existing parts and materials aside, there's absolutely nothing wrong with trying to save someone time and money, especially on an older daily driver/beater. If we were dealing with a high-dollar original vehicle on which replacement isn't an option or is not desirable, that would be another story.



This is only a positive motivation to the right direction with more to offer to discerning owners…nothing personal.



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
Click to expand...



If you didn't intend it to be taken personally, you shouldn't have thrown in "What is the forte of a Automotive Appearance Specialist..."



I'll just leave it at that.
 
If you didn't intend it to be taken personally, you shouldn't have thrown in "What is the forte of a Automotive Appearance Specialist..."



I'll just leave it at that.[/QUOTE]





All right, I apologise I should not say that. Sorry!
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. As far as the how/why the truck was purchased used at 100K miles and had some wear in multiple places (cig burn on carpet, steering wheel and seat wear) and over the last 5 years has slowly gotten worse. I have checked ebay for years on and off and can't ever find a replacement, not in tan. There is a blk on there now, but no tan. Searched google for replacements no luck, no luck at junkyards. Searched toyota forums but haven't had any luck either :( Have looked at dallas customs and actually sent them an email but between shipping and them actually doing work the truck would be without a wheel for about a week even with next day shipping...which won't work either :(



I'll look into the leather doctor repair stuff suggested. Thanks!
 
capt512 said:
I'll look into the leather doctor repair stuff suggested. Thanks!
Click to expand...







Thank you for the confident in my proposal…I shall lead you in every step…that your effort is long live…with no cracks for at least the next 3 years.



The question is whether this forum allows for the complete products instructions to be posted here?



Otherwise we have to switch venue for this exercise.



Moderator, may I have your permission to do so?



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Roger Koh said:
Thank you for the confident in my proposal…I shall lead you in every step…that your effort is long live…with no cracks for at least the next 3 years.



The question is whether this forum allows for the complete products instructions to be posted here?



Otherwise we have to switch venue for this exercise.



Moderator, may I have your permission to do so?



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
Click to expand...



Roger:



I just bought a used 2011 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe with Recaro seats. They are black with a "saffron" suede in the middle. I put Leather Masters on the black leather, but it does look like they need further softening to avoid cracking.



What is your recommendation?



Mike
 
Roger I noticed the leatherdoctor site store is closed? If it would be more appropriate to take this out of forum discussion, I can provide email contact; though I would be willing to take pictures of the process and think it may be helpful to others who have similar problems (which is many)...
 
MSOsr said:
Roger:



I just bought a used 2011 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe with Recaro seats. They are black with a "saffron" suede in the middle. I put Leather Masters on the black leather, but it does look like they need further softening to avoid cracking.



What is your recommendation?



Mike
Click to expand...





If the leather including suede can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor to as soft as you wish.



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
How does the fatliquor make it through the clear leather coating that most automotive leather has? I thought we were always treating the coating, and not the leather underneath, no?>
 
lostdaytomorrow said:
How does the fatliquor make it through the clear leather coating that most automotive leather has? I thought we were always treating the coating, and not the leather underneath, no?>
Click to expand...



How does the fatliquor make it through the clear leather coating that most automotive leather has?



Micro cracks will develop sooner or later as the steering wheel shows on the 12 O’clock position. As soon as leather finishes allows moisture to penetrate, it is wise to fatliquor it on a periodic basis.



Besides where coated leathers are punctured with perforated holes for extra breathing comfort and the unavoidable stitching holes – these are where the leather stiff out sooner and when stress or flex cracks.



When you see elongated stitching holes – it’s a telltale sign that the leather is dry of its original fatliquor and need replenishing.





I thought we were always treating the coating, and not the leather underneath, no?>



It is treating the leather underneath that saves the surface coating from cracking!



If we understand how leather cracks, it is easier to keep it from cracking!





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com
 
Fat liquors are put into the leather during the retanning process and are designed to keep the leather flexible and supple. Along with fat liquors the other important factor is the level of moisture that the leather has.

Fat liquors do not need to be replaced in leather as in modern day tanning processes they are sealed in and do not migrate or dry out. This has been verified many times by tanners and leather technologists. It is also impossible to re fat liquor leather by simply adding a product through the surface. What dries out is the moisture in the leather.



On most auto leathers we are only ever dealing with the surface coating and what causes this to break down is dirt and abrasion. Once the coating has begun to crack it needs replacing to stop it cracking further. The earlier this is done the longer the leather will last. Adding products to the leather will not help and in some cases can make the matter worse.



On auto leather it is the surface coating that cracks and not the leather.



Hope this helps

Judyb
 
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