Leather Condition...fact or fiction?

C

chu

New member
A close friend came to me and said he just found out the "correct" way to condition leather, as he has recently heard from a detailer at the local Lexus dealership. This guy tells him that the best way to condition leather is to turn the heat in the car on high (dont know how long. Then clean and apply conditioner, then let the conditioner do its magic for 3 hours. Lastly, buff with towel.



What do you guy think of the process? BS? I dont understand how the heat before helps...sweat dirt out of the pores?
 
heat is good since it helps the product go into the leather. I put mine on once per month (on my lexus :)) in a heated garage (for winter). After I am done, heat goes off and that is it. If it is -10 or 100 degrees, I put on and then let soak in. Come back and wipe in a few hours or next day. Something is better then nothing.
 
I couldn't tell you if it's BS or not since I've never tried it, but wouldn't parking the car in full sun get the leather as hot if not hotter than blasting the heat on high?
 
Leatherique sayes.."Park the car in the sun with the windows rolled up to create a “steam room� for as long as practical, several hours or a day. "



I use their products with fantastic results!!
 
There is some BS to conditioning leather today as most all is clear coated so what you are putting on the leather is really sitting on top, for the most part. Heat is good as it helps what dose go in to absorb.



If you read the leathique web site they suggest that you apply there cleaner & conditioner then cover the seat in plastic and leave in the sun so that it can get warm. this helps to get it to lift drit or to soak in after



In any case regular maintenance of your leather will keep it in good shape for the life of the car
 
foxtrapper said:
Clear coated leather, eh?



If it did exist, shoe makers would all be using it with enthusiasm.
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Yes, the leather in cars today has some sort of vinyl coating. It exists.
 
foxtrapper said:
Clear coated leather, eh?



If it did exist, shoe makers would all be using it with enthusiasm.
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Isn't that what coraframs (I think that's what they were, we called them "party shoes" in the Corps) are?



*Edit - coraframs, that's what they were called
 
foxtrapper said:
Clear coated leather, eh?



If it did exist, shoe makers would all be using it with enthusiasm.
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What they put on leather today I'm not sure of the real name but leather in cars today are coated to protect the color. Most all leather in cars is top coated for color and if you take some good APC and rub an area you can rub right threw the coating and the color in no time.



Read about it here



Caring For Your Leather Car Seat Cover
 
Corfram was a synthetic made by DuPont. It's no closer to leather than naugahyde is.



Cheap leathers are surface pigmented. This comes off easily with some buffing. That's not a protective coating, it's simply that only the surface is died. Buff it hard, grinding off the surface layer of leather, and the color goes with it.



Really cheap (junk) leathers are a split leather that is then coated with polyurethane for a specific finish. It can't hold up to any pulling forces or wear. Not even Chrysler uses this on their seats. Frequently used in designer purses for specific finishes and patterns.



Aniline leathers, which almost all leather seats are made of, are not surface coated, and are very subject to staining from liquids. It is an open pore leather.
 
chu said:
What do you guy think of the process? BS? I dont understand how the heat before helps...sweat dirt out of the pores?
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chu, have a look at this thread: http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/71587-help-old-leather.html?highlight=leatherique





"Steaming" the leather does work. You do need heat + time for the magic to occur.



DSC00118.JPG
 
foxtrapper said:
Aniline leathers, which almost all leather seats are made of, are not surface coated, and are very subject to staining from liquids. It is an open pore leather.
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I don't believe that's the case. From the Autopia Guide to Detailing:
There are many different leather cleaners and conditioners available. Be sure to select a leather cleaner and conditioner appropriate for your leather upholstery. Modern leather upholstery is protected with a thin vinyl coating, whereas classic leather interiors are not. Do not use a product designed for uncoated leather on a coated leather finish, as it may quickly ruin the protective coating. (emphasis mine)
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Tort
 
Can I add some basic possible logic on this topic please?



Now I may be wrong here, but I would think that no matter what the factory applied to the leather, whether it be dye, paint, permanent protectorant, corafam, or whatever, that logic would suggest that any substance would seal or cover the pores in the leather, and probibit any other substance such as a conditioner from entering or absorbing into the leather itself. Thad at Vinyl Pro agrees with me and suggests using the 'ole standby...303 to protect.
 
I don't agree with using something like 303 on leather, but I do agree that most leathers now are treated with something that blocks most products from being absorbed. Sure some of it gets in at the microscopic crack level, however it is not absorbed as readily as older style leather. More to the point, newer leather just has lost its appeal to me for the very reason, it feels like plastic. I like the looks and practicality of micro-fiber suede.
 
Nic Walker said:
Can I add some basic possible logic on this topic please?



Now I may be wrong here, but I would think that no matter what the factory applied to the leather, whether it be dye, paint, permanent protectorant, corafam, or whatever, that logic would suggest that any substance would seal or cover the pores in the leather, and probibit any other substance such as a conditioner from entering or absorbing into the leather itself. Thad at Vinyl Pro agrees with me and suggests using the 'ole standby...303 to protect.
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What you said is correct. Protectant 303 is as good a UV blocker as you will find and it is approved for use on leather. However, I would not use it on natural leather which must be "feed" with a good conditioner like Lexol or Leatherique. Most of today's car interiors are vinyl coated which prohibits absorbtion - that is the main reason they are there. It stands to reason then that a product designed to be absorbed in order to do it's job will be ineffective in this kind of application. On vinyl or vinyl-like coatings, 303 is as good as it will get.
 
foxtrapper said:
Aniline leathers, which almost all leather seats are made of, are not surface coated, and are very subject to staining from liquids. It is an open pore leather.
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Actually, most car seat leather these days is pigmented leather. These are basically 3 kinds of leather apart from suede and nubuck: aniline, semi-aniline, and pigmented. Pigmented leather is mechanically altered to produce uniform color and texture, it is dyed with opaque dyes, its surface sanded, and it is then embossed with a pattern. Pigmented leather will have a uniform pattern, kind of like looking at wallpaper that has a repeating pattern. It is then coated with a clear sealent.



Semi-aniline leather is also usually (but not necessarily) clear coated. It is mechanically altered to produce a uniform color and texture. It is usually devoid of range marks which gives a full-aniline leather some character but which are generally undesirable in a car seat. Semi-aniline leather is always top-grain leather and is therefor a little pricey for most automakers. It also does not protect as well as pigmented leather, which holds up much better in a car with all the UV and heat exposure and dirt, outdoor use, etc. That's why pigmented leather is the usual choice: durability, uniform look, uniform color (can be dyed with opaque dyes), and less pricey.



Full-aniline leather is not clear coated or dyed and retains its range marks (things like stretch marks around where the ribs were and barbed wire marks). It is not uniform in color or pattern. I like it best, its got character and great feel.



BTW a custom leather job is relatively cheap at about $1500, and you can often choose your leather.
 
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