Latest thoughts on 'rustproofing'

P

Phil Price

New member
Hi Everyone,



As a newbie, I love this forum and it has been a great learning experience.



I wasn't paying attention at the pump and pulled out the nozzle before it fully drained and spilled gas on the exterior of the car.



Now for my question:

What is the proper way to handle the wipe up? QD with a microfiber towel?



TIA.
 
If the station has a paper towel dispenser, I find it helpful to hold a paper towel under the nozzle when removing to help catch any drops.
 
Hey RH, why aren't you bustin' DETAILKING's cojones about having a pic in his signature? Did you resign from the Bandwith Police?
 
Ha Ha! No, actually I admire beau's car much more due to its age, condition, and shine. My granny can make a 2001 shine!
 
I always try to avoid this spillage of the last few drops of petrol. I always shake the handle real well before I take the .. uhmm before I withd... before I take the nozzle out. Then I pull back reallll fast.. I am getting pretty good as no drips have dropped. I think the paper idea said before is the best; see RHs post. I think I am going to get myself in trouble one day pulling out so fast and whack the machine with my elbow. Will give the paper method a try out next time.



PassatPunk.
 
Depending on what surface protectant you had on your paint, you might want to reapply as gasoline will remove many products. Now, it was not rubbed on, so the effect may not be that great, but I would check it out.
 
Brad had a very nifty trick he did with his Porsche Boxter. He installed this vinyl or plastic thing that would be rolled out of the gar tank nozzle thingy..gosh very hard to explain..and if any drips were to happen it would be caught on this sheet instead of the paint.
 
Ya Jason, I saw one of those before, I think over at the VW Vortex forums. It was kinda goofy looking. They are out there though.



Imagine a black carpet shooting out of your gas tank nozzle when you open of the gas door. Kinda like a red carpet being rolled out when you show up at the Grammy's.



I dont know where these are for sale though. PassatPunk.
 
I just met a fellow that was driving an '82 Datsun (?) pickup that was absolutely pristine bodywise, not a spec of rust, it had 140k on it and spent its entire life in upstate Maine.

The previous owner had it 'oiled' every year according to the new owner, now perhaps someone can set me straight as to what exactly this is. My understanding is that in North country it was common some years ago to take your vehicle to a local shop where they would spray used motor oil on the undercarriage, some say that the vehicle was then driven like hell down a dusty road??

At any rate the process worked, hence the question;

what is the current consensus on auto rust proofing, the manual for my Chevy and Ford neither 'recommend for or against' after market products.

Me, I think it worth the money.
 
I used to work at a shop that applied rust proofing and undercoating along with all the other dealer sold scams. Personally wouldn't waste my money on the undercoating. If you plan to own a vehicle for a very long time than maybe get the rust proofing. Personally I will never own a car long enough to worry about rust. :D


The rust proofing I applied involved spraying a thick gel like material using a long hose with a 360 degree spray head on it. The gel would dry to an almost rubber like material. I would find access, usually through drip holes and run the hose into the panel. I would then spray the material as I withdrew the hose.

With the idea that it will keep moisture and oxygen away from the metal, it seem like it definitely can't hurt....but is it really needed on today?s cars?


Rasky
 
Just ask the owners of '2000 - '2005 (?) Toyota Tundra Trucks if they think rustproofing is important, as they watch pieces attached to their frames rust off and fall on the street.. :) Geez, that is a mess, I feel bad for those owners..

Used to be the Factory would dip all those undercarriage pieces and the body in some kind of zinc or rustproofing product that would stick to it and enable you to drive a long time without having to worry too much about rust.

But now, looks like the bean-counters have short-circuited enough processes that their short-term fixes have turned into long-term problems..

I have also heard that some rustproofing products that are sprayed are fine but that if there are any leaks in them, water gets trapped up in there and is kept moist because of the product and then this causes problems.

Probably one of the best things you can do is every year after winter, and all the salts/crap on the road is gone, get your entire undercarriage sprayed out with pressure washing, etc.. and this will help alot.

Good luck with this.

DanF
 
Stokdgs said:
Just ask the owners of '2000 - '2005 (?) Toyota Tundra Trucks if they think rustproofing is important, as they watch pieces attached to their frames rust off and fall on the street.. :) Geez, that is a mess, I feel bad for those owners..

Used to be the Factory would dip all those undercarriage pieces and the body in some kind of zinc or rustproofing product that would stick to it and enable you to drive a long time without having to worry too much about rust.

But now, looks like the bean-counters have short-circuited enough processes that their short-term fixes have turned into long-term problems..

I have also heard that some rustproofing products that are sprayed are fine but that if there are any leaks in them, water gets trapped up in there and is kept moist because of the product and then this causes problems.

Probably one of the best things you can do is every year after winter, and all the salts/crap on the road is gone, get your entire undercarriage sprayed out with pressure washing, etc.. and this will help alot.

Good luck with this.

DanF
Click to expand...

I have heard this as well. I'd probably apply some heavy weight oil inside my panels long before I used the stuff I used to spray in cars.
 
I have concerns about the product BUT when I see some of the old cars here in the Northeast that have had either Ziebart or Waxoyl done the results are compelling.-very compelling.

About a year ago I bought an '05 Chev truck to use as a service vehicle, 28k on it, I was very surprised at the amount of corrosion underneath. Its all surface but its clear to me that this truck is not going to last a very long time, why did I get it?, $156/mnth-one owner from the dealer that sold it new and 4wd.
 
I've battled vehicle rust here, in CT, for years- going back to the days when a Datsun 510 or 240z would have fender rust perforations in two years....
I'm also a 2003 Tundra owner, and had a hunting buddy lose his '98 Tacoma to frame rust. I rust proof all of my vehicles, not just to protect panels, but to enable me to service them after a few years without the hassle of frozen hardware, stuck parts, etc.
The rust prevention products that I've seen work are all wax-based. These all seem to be essetially the same, from physical appearance and smell- including Zeibart and Rusty Jones.
Duro used to make a product, as above, that worked pretty well.
Amsoil HD rust prevent/chain lube is in this class, but is too thin to build up a film that will adhere to edges. CRC 400 is similar, a little thicker. Both are expensive aerosol can products.
Eastwood sells canned and bulk rustproofing that works well. I did my new Legacy with this product this past summer. I have bulk spray equipment- gun, wands, tips, etc.
I did my Tundra, when new, with Evercoat rust prevent- it's not the same as the aforementioned products- seems to be wax-based material with an ether solvent base. I've also used 'Rust-Fre" (autobody supply product, maybe regional,company is in PA.) This stuff is wax & mineral-spirts/stoddard solvent based. I inspect and respray the Tundra as needed. Neither of these work as well as the brown Eastwood stuff.
The brown sweet-smelling rustproofers are similar to a proven anti-corrosion material used on maritime aircraft called Par-Al-Ketone, which I believe met an FAA standard. Don't know if the stuff is still around; it worked great.
Speaking of old-fashioned, enamels such as Derusto and Rustoleum resist road de-icers well - IMO better than some touted, more modern, coatings.
I'll also add that the Calcium/Magnesium Chloride deicers used on roads these days seem to corrode metals much more agreeively than old-fashioned rocksalt.
Hope my post offers some insight.
 
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