Last questions before 1st detail

S

Sarcazmo

New member
Ok, so today I got my PC which rounded out all the equipment I think I'll need for my 1st (exterior) detail. Just have a few last questions before I start on Saturday.



  1. Clean major gunk off windows. I actually started this today using NXT window wash. I thought I might have to go to a polish, but so far I'm impressed. Got most of the gunk off.
  2. Get major bug/tar stains off
  3. Wash car. I'm going to be using Meg's gold class wash with a Sonus wash mitt.
  4. Clay the entire car. After I clay, can I wipe off the residue with some QD and microfibers, or should I wash the car again?
  5. Polish the car using SFX-2. Place a ring around the inside of the pad. Start with a speed of two, work the polish onto the panel. Bump it up to 3.5-4, with a final go around of 5-6 moving the PC in up and down, side to side motions. Once hazy, buff with MF.
  6. Apply Klasse with a polishing pad. I've got the PC Sonus kit, I'm wondering which pad to use with the AIO? Or would the pad that came with the PC work? Once the pad is figured out, apply Klasse in a plus sign on the pad, and apply at a speed of 3.5-4.5. I'm a little unclear about when I'll know when to remove this product? When it hazes?
  7. Apply UPP with a finishing pad. Apply sealant to pad, spread at a rate of 3, and then wipe off. Up and down, side to side motions. Again a little unclear how to know when to buff off... Does this product haze? Allow to cure 12 hours.
  8. Apply P21s to finishing pad. Apply at rate of about 3, buff off after product hazes. Re-apply additional coats if necessary

How's that sound? Any advice is most appreciated.



One last thing, any other prodcuts you'd recommend?



Thanks again autopia!
 
You can rewash after claying but I would just QD like you said. I thinking having to dry twice is a PITA.

for your polishing step w/ sfx-2, I would spread the product around on speed 2 and once spread, bump up to 6 immediately. Running the PC on 4 isn't going to remove anything sadly.

I don't know which sonus pad kit that you got so I don't know what color I should tell you to use with the AIO but use the one that is one step up in cut from the finishing pad. In the SFX kit it will be the white pad, and in the DAS kit it will be the green pad.

Work AIO until you feel that you've gotten decent coverage of the area with the product. I normally do 2-3 passes and then move to the next area.

Same thing applies with UPP. Work it into the area until you feel that you've gotten adequate coverage. Make sure that you apply UPP as thinly as possible, this makes it easier to remove. Once applied I'd let it sit on the paint for a bit before you buff it off. I'd also let it cure for 24 hours like it says on the bottle.

P21S should be applied by hand with a foam applicator, quit being lazy :P



I recommend that you pick up a good QD and QDing towels to maintain that "freshly-waxed" look. I use quikshine and pakshak ultra-plushes.
 
UPP is very thin, and I find that a lot more product is wasted by using it with the PC. You have to cover a larger surface area on the applicator pad, and it soaks up more product than a typical foam applicator. At $20+ a bottle, I prefer to use the product, not send it down the drain.



Same with P21S. That's an expensive wax, and application by hand is a breeze. There's no reason to apply it via PC IMO.
 
Excellent advice. I was wondering whether it was truly necessary. I bought some foam applicator pads from Pakshak, I'm happy I can put them to use now.



With the AIO, can I use the pad included with the PC to apply it? Reason being I'll be using the white pad to apply the SFX-2, and am impatient. I don't want to have to clean the pad before using it with the AIO. :D



Thanks again!
 
If you mean "white pad" as in the factory-supplied PC pad, don't bother. With all the negative feedback I've heard about that pad, I still have mine sealed in the original packaging.



You said you have the Sonus kit, so use those pads. Clean the pad after using it with SFX-2. Even if you just squeeze it out a bit in a bucket of warm water, that will be fine. Just get the majority of the water out, and then either sandwich the pad between two MFs to dry it, or move it away from the car and slap it on the PC. Turn it up to speed 3 and make sure your face is above the machine. The water will spray out of the sides of the pad.
 
throw the included pad away. Clean your pad u lazy bum! It should take 10-15 minutes from taking the dirty pad off the pc to putting it back on cleaned. take it off, throw it in some dawn solution, "massage" the pad to clean it out, rinse it out under clean water, wring out the excess, throw it on the pc, turn it on to speed 6 for 10 seconds or so and voila! your pad is ready for AIO.
 
Cleaning pads is another good reason to have a rotary..dirty to clean and usable...2 minutes top.

Dirty, add a little water, squeeze, add some APC and finger in, rinse, squeeze, rinse, squeeze, place on rotary, lay rotary on top of trash can, spin away.
 
Neothin said:
throw the included pad away. Clean your pad u lazy bum! It should take 10-15 minutes from taking the dirty pad off the pc to putting it back on cleaned. take it off, throw it in some dawn solution, "massage" the pad to clean it out, rinse it out under clean water, wring out the excess, throw it on the pc, turn it on to speed 6 for 10 seconds or so and voila! your pad is ready for AIO.
Click to expand...





I wouldn't recommend spin-drying pads on speed 6. They're not being held against anything, and that pad is moving pretty fast, and trying pretty hard to come off. Besides, AIO works best with a damp pad anyway. If there's a little water left after spin-drying on speed 3, it won't hurt anything.
 
Ah, I thought I had to soak the pad to clean it. Thanks for clearing that up, I was worried for a minute.



I'll make sure to take lots of pics.
 
You only have to soak the pad if the product is allowed to dry on/in the pad. It needs to soak for a while to loosen up the dried product. If you finish using it and wash it out right away, all you really have to do is rinse it. All the product should come right out.
 
I'd switch steps 2 and 3 if it were me - you don't want to scratch up the paint by trying to remove stuck-on stuff on dirty paint. Might as well get it as clean as you can to prevent marring/scratching.



You can wash the car, and clay without drying (using your soapy wash water as a lube), and then rinse/wash again, so that you only have to dry once.



AIO doesn't really need to be worked long if you're using it after claying / polishing, as the cleaners in it aren't really going to be doing anything anyway.



I'd probably apply the UPP and P21s by hand, but that's just me. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
 
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