Klasse SG removal?

R

RobDon

New member
I'm new to using Klasse, whilst the AIO went on and buffed off no problem using the PC, the SG wouldn't come off, even with the PC. I used a mist of Sonus acrylic spritz then buffed again, this time the surface came up fine - phew! Obviously I applied it too thick, but it seems such a difficult product to apply with just the right amount?



What's the best way to apply an ultra thin coat of Klasse SG? Could it be misted on like Sonus Glanz?
 
I have had the same problem. But using a QD worked ok. It is had not to use to much. You should try it on chrome wheels! Super shine and no brake dust!
 
You probably did apply it too thick. Try a first wipe with a MF dampened with water and then a final buff with a dry MF. Works for me no matter how sloppily I put SG on or how long I let it sit.
 
So by removing it with a QD, will it still have worked and bonded on top of the AIO, or does the QD remove it again?
 
To apply it thinly in the first place, what I do is distribute it evenly across my applicator and make sure it is soaked into the foam (rather than sitting in a glob on top). Then I usee a very light touch when beginning application. I use almost no pressure at first, and do a few light passes over the area I'm working. Then I move on. Don't worry about seeing it on there or "evenness" of the application. Remember, it needs to go on so thin that you can barely tell it's there. It should never look as thick as carnauba haze. Your 2-4 subsequent layers will ensure you haven't missed anything.
 
Once you've applied it to the foam pad, does that do the entire car, how often should you reload the pad? I'm sure I'll get the hang of it, it's just difficult to apply a product you can barely see as you're applying it so thinly!
 
You will need to re-load the pad. It should take about 1 oz for an entire coat. I think of that as a 2/3 full shotglass. It is not much, but drizzled onto the pad, like I do, it goes a long way. I usually reload after each panel (hood, roof, rear hatch, front fender & door, rear fender & door, etc.). I drizzle an X on the pad and then a circle around it, to sort of fill the pad evenly.
 
Also, the trick to applying even though you can't see it is to follow a set pattern and once you've passed over an area, trust that it's covered. If you start looking for evenness, like you would with a carnauba, you are going to see the thicker areas and assume it should all look like that. That's when you wind up applying it too thickly. Cover and area and move on without inspection. Trust it's on there. Like I said before, your subsequent coats will ensure complete coverage.
 
I go by feel. Areas that have been treated with KSG will feel slicker/different from untreated areas. I *never* put it on so thick that I can see it on the paint; I use far less than an ounce for the whole minivan. After quite a few years and many dozens of applications, my bottle of KSG is still maybe 2/3 full.



I apply it to the pad by placing the pad over the top of the bottle and shaking it- this deposits a tiny drop of KSG on the pad. Then I move the pad and do it again. I repeat this until the pad is just barely damp. Then I rub the pad together to distribute it more evenly. Again, the pad will be just *barely* damp. This will do an average size panel. Then a few more shakes will give enough new KSG for the next panel. It's a matter of *drops* of product per panel.



I really can't exaggerate how little it takes. Get it on thinly enough and it wipes off with hardly any effort at all. Doing the minivan is time consuming but easy.
 
It's not necessary to use the Sonus Acrylic Spritz to remove the stubborn SG.



Simply take your damp SG applicator, and re-apply a very thin coat of SG (wiping over a 2'x2' area of the car), then IMMEDIATELY wipe the just-applied area with a clean MF or 100% cotton wiping cloth.



For me, the Sonus is a little pricey to use as a removal aid. The same applicator that you just used, moistened a little, works wonders.
 
never used klasse before but considering it. what do you mean by "your subsequent coats will get areas missed" do you mean when you coat it again in a couple of months or are you suppossed to do more than 1 application when you initially use klasse ?
 
beefy z said:
...are you suppossed to do more than 1 application when you initially use klasse ?
Click to expand...

One of the key advantages to the use of sealant is layerability. You'll find that most users of Klasse, Zaino, and other pure sealants like to start their use of the product by applying several coats. Many find that the appearance improves slightly with each of the first 3 coats, but some continue to five or more. You can search and find tons of discussions about layering sealants, but generally you need to wait at least 24 hours between layers for the previous coat to "cure". I generally do a coat a week for 3 consecutive weeks and then just maintain it with Sonus QD and Glanz for the next few months before I decide to do it again. Three coats of Klasse can reportedly get you through as long as a year, but I can't imagine anyone wanting to wait that long to detail again.
 
I've been putting SG on and then allowing it to sit overnight prior to buffing out. A question, though. After buffing it out....can I immediately start applying the next layer (as it has already set 24 hours, or close to it)...or do I need to wait another 24?



When does the clock start?







....BH
 
Have been experimenting with SG a bit and it seems to come off easily if I use a finishing pad and a PC. Comes right off.



- J
 
I have been here awhile and have actually just started using Klasse recently. The best thing you can do is put your SG in a smaller container like a 20oz squeeze bottle. A 1/2 oz should do a smaller car on up and an oz for bigger sport utes. I use about a dime size per panel and it goes on so thin you can barely tell its there. Also use a MF app. if you can just seemed to work better for me.
 
If you have trouble getting the KSG off just fog the surface with your breath. The little bit of moisture makes it easy to a) see the KSG and b) get it off.



BottleHead said:
I've been putting SG on and then allowing it to sit overnight prior to buffing out. A question, though. After buffing it out....can I immediately start applying the next layer (as it has already set 24 hours, or close to it)...or do I need to wait another 24?



When does the clock start?
Click to expand...



The clock starts when the KSG "flashes" (initially dries). I do that (overnight wait, buff off, apply more) when applying my initial coats and it works fine. I don't always even wait exactly 24 hours (apply at night, buff and reapply next afternoon) and I've never noticed any problems. I sorta wonder if the "24 hours rule" is just a convenient rule-of-thumb.
 
I have had the best luck removing SG with an Autopia Concourse Buffing towel. It is noticably easier with the CBT than other microfiber towels I have tried. The CBT just seems to cut the residue much easier. As others have mentioned SG should be put on as thinly as possible, much better to do 2 extremely thin layers than one thicker one. I too have found SG easier to remove if I let it sit for an hour or so, longer if it is humid out.
 
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