KlaSSe SG few questions, difficulty ALWAYS

imported_agh603

New member
why is it soo hard to remove this product, it says rub it till its almost gone, but uh uh its hard to remove and i use this after i use the S100 clenser or the AIO it don't matter which i use its always been difficult to remove for me, and is there any info on using this product ?? any help would be appreciated



TIA





Reza
 
I think if you're having a lot of trouble buffing off Klasse SG you're either using too much product, not waiting long enough for it to dry, or both.



As far as I know, you're not supposed to "work it into the paint" or keep rubbing it until it disappears.... Why were you doing this?



Also I'm not sure SG would work directly over the S100 Cleanser, but don't have any solid proof of that.
 
I use as little product as possible...(i prefer to use a foam paint brush sherwin williams has very soft ones) let it dry about an hour then spritz it with a very very light mist of distilled water...without the water it is a PAIN to get off.
 
A what? A sponge? What kind of sponge? Do you mean one of those yellow pads you would apply wax with or a kitchen sponge? That could be your problem right there. A sponge will soak up too much product and that will put it right back down on the car as you apply it. You think you aren't using much but the sponge is tricking you. I use microfiber pads. That seems to really work well with SG especially. I've tried using other pads but they don't seem to let me get it on thin like I want to. I always end up having problems buffing it off if I use even the yellow foam pads.



The thinner the better. If you can see SG when you put it on then you are using too much. It just needs to be super thin. If you are having problems then there are a couple ways that work really well. One is to spray with a QD first and then wipe it off. That is how I generally do it now. Another option is to wipe it with a damp towel first and then follow up with a dry one. That works really well too. Or you could just pull the car out and wash it again. I'm sure the water and the wash mitt will take care of it all.



There is a knack to using Klasse that usually takes one or two applications before you catch on to it. You'll get it though. Once you get used to working with it you'll figure out the easiest way to use it. Klasse isn't like a wax and it applies differently than probably anything you've ever put on your car before. You'll get the hang of it though. Just give it some time. :xyxthumbs
 
i tried from 30 mins to 3 days and found no difference after 4 hours but yeah over night is fine. thats what alot of people i know do.
 
Maybe, but I haven't tried that myself. I think getting your coats thinner would be more important, and like Calestus said, spritzing with water or using the 2 towel method will help. If you leave it overnight make sure no dust can get on it though...
 
Calestus said:
Yes 4DSC has a good point dust is evil....



Absolutely. I'm in a really REALLY dusty environment, so I can't let the SG sit too long before I take it off. I use a little yellow foam app, and kinda just tilt the SG bottle over on the app and use the app to wipe the top of the bottle. This gives me enough to do, say, my front quarter panel. By the time I get the whole car covered, I take a short break and start buffing off - maybe 30 mintues? Any longer than that, and the car is covered in dust. One wet MF towel, wrung out as dry as I can get it, followed by a dry MF towel, takes it all off and buffs it to a nice shine. The wet towel also gets any dust that has settled (not a matter of if, more like how much). If I think I'm missing a spot, I breathe on it. If the moisture disappears right away, the SG is buffed off.



Jngr is right - Klasse takes a few coats to get the hang of. I've now done my car twice, my husband's truck twice, and friends' car twice. My car has to be done over, because I didn't realize how badly swirled it is, and I have some weird spots where I can clearly see I didn't get all the SG off. Be patient - you'll get it. The results are worth it!
 
Another removal tip that's served me well is to fog the surface with your breath right before you wipe it. It moistens the surface and helps you see the SG.



When I do that AND let it set up for a while (usually overnight), even intentionally THICK (experimenting) SG applications come right off (that's using a CMA "suede-style" MF). A little Meg's FI on the MF can be helpful too (a little more so than plain water but don't overdo it).
 
Try using a mf pad(slightly misted with FI). Apply a small amount the size of a nickle and do at least a panel. You will require less product/FI as you move along the car since the pad will get damp with the product. I let it sit one day and then buff it. In case of difficulty in buffing then use a little FI qd to assist.



I have also read where they say you should work the sg into the paint. I do not use this method as imo, it is not as good as the first one I mentioned.
 
I have found that working the SG allows me to get it thinner. That's the only reason I work it. It doesn't have cleaners or anything, so working it achieves nothing more than getting a thinner coat.
 
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