Klasse Sealant Problem

Brenton

Brenton

aka PEI Detail
I used the Klasse Sealant for the first time, applied by hand with the foam applicator provided. When on fine and thin. Just tried it on my hood. I left it for a while to dry--10-15 mins--and when I came back it wasn't hazy, but really streaky, and almost impossible to get off. It looked like heavy scratches.
I finished the car with EX-P cause I was afraid of spending hours applying a sealant.
What did I do wrong?
b
 
You probably applied it too thick.
It is often said that if you can see Klasse SG, it's too thick.
Because of the many posts about the problem with using SG, I have always stayed away from it.

FWIW, There are also many people that use it with great success.

Charles
 
I use Klasse SG and in the beginning I did apply it too thick which made it difficult to remove. Since then, I apply a V-E-R-Y thin coat (so thin, you can't even see it). Its a great product once you get the hang of it... and with the amount that you use, the bottle of SG lasts a very long time.
 
I'm hesitant to use Klasse SG, but I did some research just in case. One method I've read was the "wipe on, wipe off" method. Simply stated the SG is removed right after application to prevent drying. I guess it would be a similar application as the AIO.

One word of caution... There are great debates on this method of application. Some say the method won't affect longevity. Some say it will affect longevity. Some say that this method isn't the intended purpose of this product. I'm not trying to start a debate nor endorsing either argument. I'm stating what I read on another forum. Bottom line is this method might make application and removal easier if you really want to use this product.

Another side note... Some SG users report no problems using this product at all. Even some let the product dry on the vehicle overnight.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any specific questions regarding my post.
 
I had problems with SG when I used the wrong applicator. It left sort of hills of SG and valleys with no SG. I've found that if I use the applicator with the finest nap, it works much better.

Waiting 15 minutes is either too long or not long enough. Some people suggest that you should wait 10 or 15 hours to remove the SG. They claime it is very easy to remove at that point. Others claim you should remove it right away. I think most people feel that after the SG sits for a bit, it reaches a stage where it is sort of gummy. So there is a good chace that you caught it at just that point.

I use the infamous "Bill North" wipe on/wipe off method. That is apply the SG to a realatively small area, like half a door, and then wipe it off immediately. After I finsish the entire car, I go over it again with a MF towel to assure that all the SG is wiped off. Then about an hour later, I go over it again with a MF suede cloth. If the cloth seems to drag anywhere on the surface, I polish it until it is slick. That pretty much assures that all of the excess SG is off.

Finally, it is easier to remove stubborn SG if you use a little Sonus Acrylic Glanz on the MF towel. QDs without silicones, like Megs FI, will also work.
 
Steve530 said:
I had problems with SG when I used the wrong applicator. It left sort of hills of SG and valleys with no SG. I've found that if I use the applicator with the finest nap, it works much better.

Waiting 15 minutes is either too long or not long enough. Some people suggest that you should wait 10 or 15 hours to remove the SG. They claime it is very easy to remove at that point. Others claim you should remove it right away. I think most people feel that after the SG sits for a bit, it reaches a stage where it is sort of gummy. So there is a good chace that you caught it at just that point.

I use the infamous "Bill North" wipe on/wipe off method. That is apply the SG to a realatively small area, like half a door, and then wipe it off immediately. After I finsish the entire car, I go over it again with a MF towel to assure that all the SG is wiped off. Then about an hour later, I go over it again with a MF suede cloth. If the cloth seems to drag anywhere on the surface, I polish it until it is slick. That pretty much assures that all of the excess SG is off.

Finally, it is easier to remove stubborn SG if you use a little Sonus Acrylic Glanz on the MF towel. QDs without silicones, like Megs FI, will also work.
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Very informative and constructive!! I could not agree with you more on this. I find that the Klasse Twins are one of the most cost effective protectants on the market.
 
I agree with the two above posts. I put less than a dime size drop on a MF applicator today, and did about half of the hood with that. I did the wipe on, wipe off and it worked fine. All I did before was just some SSR 2.5 and then KSG. Just a quickie detail for the day to get a head start prep for winter.
 
I've had no problems apply/removing SG using a misted MF brick-type applicator. I applied 3x layers 'cause I applied it sparingly & I wanted to insure complete coverage.

I've used the WOWO method without any problems but others will argue that crosslinking is either inhibited or eliminated ... could be true but I still get significant beading months after application.

Does beading = protection???? That's another thread starter ....

IMHO, surface prep is essential prior to applying SG ... the slicker the surface prior to application the easier it is to spread & remove and you made no mention of this in your thread. I tried using some SG on my sister's ignored Cutlass prior to thorough polishing & cleaning and I found SG residue very difficult to remove.
 
I use a damp microfiber pad..put SG in a 2 oz sparay bottle..spray the pad.
I do half my hood and wipe off..etc..So the is kinda the wowo method.
I never have any problems with removal or bonding.
 
I followed some of the suggestions here. Instead of WOWO, I allowed it to sit for several hours. I applied quite thin, and only problems removing in areas where there was a little build up. I used a QD and towel to finish removal.

It has a nice finish, but not noticably different than EX-P or NXT Tech Wax, both of which are much easier to use. Perhaps it was a little bit plasticy for a sealant. Not a great deal of depth though, so I'll top with wax. A good product, but not something I can use commercially without a mark up.

What's the lasting power of SG vs. EX-P or NXT Tech Wax?
 
I can tell a big difference between the 3 sealants. SG seems to have a mirror like finish in my eyes. NXT is a little of both and EX-P seems to have a lot of depth and shine. As for durability, Sg, EX-P, NXT would be the way I'd rate it, longest durability to the least. I did another layer and let it sit over night, no problems there too. I used a MF applicator pad.
 
The durability isn't so much for myself as for clients. They want the "one year sealant" that the shine place down the road puts on. They do two layers one right after the other with 2 guys. Car is in and out in an hour or so.
For myself, I layer, adding several coats of whatever I use. I can afford it.
 
my method for a while now has been to apply it. obviusly dont apply it too thick, but dont worry about how thin it is or what. just apply it. let it sit. soak a mf towel, wring it, fold and use it to remove. follow up the car with qd. no bonding issues or anything. sounds like more steps but in all with the easy of use it is to apply (watery), and using a damp towel to remove, it takes about 15minutes max.
 
joyriide1113 said:
my method for a while now has been to apply it. obviusly dont apply it too thick, but dont worry about how thin it is or what. just apply it. let it sit. soak a mf towel, wring it, fold and use it to remove. follow up the car with qd. no bonding issues or anything. sounds like more steps but in all with the easy of use it is to apply (watery), and using a damp towel to remove, it takes about 15minutes max.
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:w00t:

Yep, I've used pretty much the same method and had no issues at all :punk:
 
JeffW said:
Oh, noooooo....don't go there.... :argue:
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it's been at least what .... 2 or 3 days since someone stirred up this hornet's nest. I'd love to put this one to rest if someone could provide an accurate method to determine an answer.

Most of us never leave products on the car long enough to allow them to diminish & degrade. We're out there every 2 weeks redoing the car, more frequently than some people wash their cars ... or so it seems.
 
I know you don't want to "gob" it on, but if you apply SG or any LSP too thickly, it just probably means a lot more elbow grease is going to be necessary to take it off.

I was using UPP on my last application. I had a bit left in the bottle so I figured I'd just apply it super-thickly on the front end of the hood that slopes down on my Civic. Poured it all on, let it dry, looked like white paint on the grey finish. Took it off with a MF towel, and it felt very slick and very thick. OK, maybe I put on only as much sealant as a thin application and the rest just got mopped up by the MF towel. The point is, the look and feel should be the same, IMO.

Sure, you use too much it's a waste of product and you have to work a lot harder. No way I'd use that much UPP or SG on my whole car, would take an hour or more just to take off the stuff.
 
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