billium said:
I've spent much time both here at at Megiaur's Online researching KBM. Before I turn loose on my black Mercedes with ceramaclear, I want to make sure I'm on the right page.
May I chime in here? I will address your points in segments.
billium said:
I'll be using DA PC7424XP for correction and polishing, have both LC backing plates & assortment of both 4" & 5.5" LC pads. Both M105 & M205 are DA versions. I understand the majority of theory for using the product as follows:
Got it.
billium said:
Not exactly... check out this post.
A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
Your pad should be primed just like Chris shows in this post.
Believe it or not, there are approximately 8-10 reasons/dynamics occurring when you thoroughly prime the pad.
Do not overlook the importance of this step.
billium said:
2) couple three dots of product.
Well, if you are using a tiny pad, perhaps yes. Otherwise, use a normal amount.
That is a generalization, but most guys apply an "X" or a "circle" pattern of liquid to the pad. This is a sufficient amount for M105, too. Just don't apply it in a thick bead.
billium said:
3) don't spread and then work, just work it in approx. 2'x2' sections, moving DA slowly on paint.
Correct. Place the machine on the paint, turn the machine on, and work a small area, moving the machine slow but deliberate. As for the size you should cover, I've always done an area about 4-6 square feet, or whatever I could comfortably cover with an arm's swing of the machine. Of course, if you are working on a heavily damaged section of paint, you will be wise to shrink your work area.
billium said:
4) cut is pressure dependent - overlap work by a bunch.
Hmmm... Not exactly, but your statement is correct to a degree.
Certainly, pressure does typically increase cut, but not necessarily because of the added force. The correct pressure amount depends on many factors, and it is something that you will learn by doing. I would say that you should handle the machine using a FIRM grasp, with a goal of placing EQUAL pressure across the pad face as it contact the panel.
If you are using a "gentle" pad, one that is soft or thick; or a large in diameter pad; or a machine that features a small stroke (your machine does not fall into this category), you will have to add downward pressure in order to accurately transfer the machine's movements.
Conversely, if you are using an "aggressive" pad, or one that is short, firm, or small in diameter; or a machine that touts a large stroke, you may not need to increase pressure at all. The thing is, when you are using the pad in a flat manner (you are not tilting the machine), then you should strive to deliver consistent pressure across the pad. This will ensure that the pad will contour to the panel being worked on (read the additional post at the end of these segmented answers).
billium said:
5) lower DA speads to begin with higher pressure exerted on pad.
The speed you should use depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.
Ideally, the slowest speed you can use is always best. In the real world, slow speed does not always deliver a satisfactory result, so quite often it is necessary to run the machine at a maximum speed setting. For heavy defect removal, high speed is usually required. Keep on mind that you will likely remove heavy defects more efficiently, but the trade-off will be a creation of fine micromarring. This type of defect can be easily removed by re-polishing the area with a finer polish, or by cleaning the pad, dropping the speed, and using a firm but normal to moderate amount of pressure (read the additional post at the end of these segmented answers).
billium said:
6) reduce pressure and increase speads as area is worked.
No. Completely incorrect.
In general, the application cycle should be short and consistent in terms of applied pressure and speed. The only caveat to this is when the machine is used under heavy pressure for small bursts of time.
billium said:
7) clean pads more often rather than less.
YES!
billium said:
8) change to new pads when "on the fly" cleaning doesn't clean well enough.
Anyone with specifics as to what to look for to define "not well enough"?
Sure. If you see clumps of abrasive that do not detach after cleaning, change the pad. If the pad becomes saturated with moisture or an excess of goop fills the pore structure of the pad and will not clean away, change the pad. If you see a lot of rubber marking (from hitting rubber window trim or a similar material), change the pad. If you run the pad across a lot of metal trim (stainless steel or anodized aluminum, or even chrome), change the pad. If you see a lot of dirt marks on the pad (usually pulled out of the thin gaps between body panels, if the car was not properly cleaned), change the pad. If you are working on a large vehicle, change the pad at least halfway through the job.
Keep in mind that if we were mostly polishing single stage paints versus clear coated paints, we would likely be changing our pads more often because it would be easy to see how much paint residue accumulates as we polish. Since we are polishing clear paint, we do not get the benefit of this type of visual inspection.
billium said:
9) final polishing step with M205/black or blue pads at lower speeds and very slow movement.
Yes. Slow speed, slow movement, and firm pressure throughout the polishing process. Make sure that the pad is able to rotate (even if it rotates once per second).
billium said:
Biggest confusion to me is when to change to new pads vs. cleaning current ones and whether pads can be spritzed with Final Inspection to extend working time or not.
Already addressed the cleaning issue.
Do NOT spritz the pad when using a random orbital.
It is OKAY to spritz when using a rotary, but the process is different than the method outlined in this post.
Read this, too (some repeat of the process, but there is some other good information):
I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I do not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).
Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. Well, a clean pad is equally important.
Consistent pressure across the pad is key.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available, with a couple of caveats:
The pad must be able to accept firm pressure without marring the surface. If marring of the paint occurs, do a test spot by hand using a foam or microfiber applicator pad. Check your work. If the marring has been eliminated, the pad should be inspected for damage or contamination. If the pad is clean, it is likely that it is incompatible with the paint type when paired with the particular buffing liquid being used.
There is a lot of confusion pertaining to how much product should be used when using this "method".
In general, for defect removal
First, thoroughly prime the pad as shown here:
A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
Add buffing liquid as needed, making sure to clean the pad prior to adding more buffing liquid. To properly clean the pad, lightly brush with a soft nylon bristled brush. Next, use compressed air to remove stuck on debris, followed by a quick towel cleaning of the pad. To towel clean, hold a microfiber towel in one hand and press the pad into it while throttling the machine using the other hand for 3-5 seconds (or until the pad looks clean). For safety sake, a microfiber bonnet over a foam pad works great!
To hold the bonnet/pad combo, this type of applicator is ideal (this link takes a minute to load so be patient):
http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro%20Industries,%20Inc%20Catalog.pdf
(bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)
For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Prior to use, remove a majority of the buffing liquid utilizing the towel cleaning method previously discussed. This will eliminate clumps of abrasive material and remove excess product from the pore structure of the pad (this way no added product will make its way onto the surface of the pad). At this point, the pad face should have a very consistently applied amount of buffing liquid. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad). Add small amounts of product as needed.
If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, reprime as mentioned, and then remove as much product as you can using compressed air and the microfiber (as discussed). There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle. That's all.
Finally- if you do not think the effort is worth it, and swear by a rotary, no biggie! I am a rotary guy, too. The "paper" is first about the random orbital, and then about the "method". If you decide to give it a go and are not seeing success, ask around, or you can always e-mail or call me! I am very easy to get a hold of, and the goal here is to help guy achieve better paint polishing results.
Thanks! :getdown
I seldom even do areas as large as 2' x 2' when doing real correction (as opposed to refining the finish) . No, no, that's not an :argue or a :nono but rather just an observation.