Just spoke to a MenzernaUSa rep about PO85RD...

M

mystickid

New member
Hi guys,



Well I was really in a huge dilemma in deciding between PO85Rd or FPII.



I read numerous threads about how great PO85RD is and in fact saw before and afters where PO85Rd was used. the shine and gloss was spectacular. However i've also read and saw that FPII is a great polish as well.



I read in a thread here at autopia that the specs between the two are...



PO85MC~MICROPOLISH OR FPII, CUT 2.0 GLOSS 4.0 ------- $14.95



PO85RD CUT 1.5, GLOSS 5.0 ---------------------- $44.95





When FPII is categorized as just 1.0 less than PO85RD in terms of Gloss, is getting PO85RD really worth the huge price jump (as compared to FPII).



So I called up the menzernausa toll free hotline to ask if there is a *significant* difference between FPII and and PO85RD.



The rep. explained that, people *do* experience more gloss when using PO85RD as compared to FPII but the reason for the large gap in price is do to an expensive unique, extremely, extremely fine, powdered abrasive that is intended to work efficiently on the new ceramic clear coats. It works great on conventional clear coats as well. He advised me that just because PO85Rd came out doesn't make FPII any lesser of a great product and that FPII also produces a great shine.



Now that I had this conversation with him. I am feeling I should just go get the FPII and save me some money.



Guys, what are your thoughts, Do you feel that PO85RD is definitely way better than FPII

or is FPII enough to make a mirror like, head turning shine???



are there any side-by-side comparisons of FPII and PO85RD in existence yet. i think that'd help a lot.



So chime in and please share your thoughts.
 
You'll get as many different answers to the question as you'll get people responding . Try to pick up a sample of both and decide for yourself. After all in the end its what you feel looks best not what someone else does . :bigups



Happy Detailing

:buffing:
 
mystickid said:
....but the reason for the large gap in price is do to an expensive unique, extremely, extremely fine, powdered abrasive that is intended to work efficiently on the new ceramic clear coats. It works great on conventional clear coats as well.
Click to expand...



That could be industrial or may be even optical grade cerium oxide.



If you are interested a less expensive polish, ( if you need something for Ceramiclear finishes) you might want to try Valugard Cerious Compound.
 
IMO mystic, PO85RD is well worth the money for us weekend warriors. Now if I was detailing for a living (I wish), I would go with FP II. I am 100% convinced that PO85RD gives a better, shinier finish!!
 
I've tried both and I continue to use FPII.





I get a light dusting with PO85RD whereas FPII, I get none. Also, the gloss of FPII exceeds any other polishes I've used, and the PO85RD is only noticeably better if next to FPII. In the end, if you polish to a swirl free shine, they will both look great, but the price does set me back. I go through about a quart of FPII every month in peak season so cost effective fits.
 
Rollman said:
You'll get as many different answers to the question as you'll get people responding . Try to pick up a sample of both and decide for yourself. After all in the end its what you feel looks best not what someone else does . :bigups



Happy Detailing

:buffing:
Click to expand...
Couldn't have said it any better
 
Does FPII have a lot more lubricating oil in it than PO85RD?



A freshly FPII'd surface seems to feel like it has some oil on it compared to PO85RD, but that is just from memory, as I haven't used them side by side.



If that's true, then PO85RD may have more value for those who don't want to wash before LSPs that require a clean surface. ZPC may have just come out, but Menzerna users have been enjoying similar results for a while now. :)



- J
 
FPII has no filler oils, just lubricating kinds. You can do an IPA wipe after FPII and it wont change a thing. If FPII feels oily, you may want to work it in a bit more. I know what you're talking about so I just work it until a slight glaze over the surface.
 
Perhaps this indicates I'm working FPII for the correct period of time because I'm always left with a surface that's "squeaky clean", kind of like rubbing your thumb over a dinner plate after washing.



I doubt I'd hear any "squeaking" if there was an appreciable amount of oil(s) left on the surface.



Just my $.02
 
Corey Bit Spank said:
I was under the impression that some oils were beneficial to paint, no?
Click to expand...





They can be beneficial to old school single stage, especially lacquer- they soak into the paint. But when it comes to modern paint (as in 99.9% of what we deal with), all they add is looks. They just sit on top of the paint and don't really do anything to/for it except make it shiny.
 
NYV6Coupe said:
Perhaps this indicates I'm working FPII for the correct period of time because I'm always left with a surface that's "squeaky clean", kind of like rubbing your thumb over a dinner plate after washing.



I doubt I'd hear any "squeaking" if there was an appreciable amount of oil(s) left on the surface.



Just my $.02
Click to expand...



I've experienced the same. The finish isn't slick. Shiney but most certainly not slick.
 
Thought I'd chime in

Have tried both FP II and PO85RD 3.01 (IP) and PO85RD (FP) and depending on the car, the shine is about the same

I'm using a makita 9227



Still need help using both RD products

Got an AU Falcon T series TE50 sedan in galaxy blue to detail (same colour and model as my car) and it's badly scratched



Tried both RD's and the marks wouldn't budge and I couldn't get the polishes to break down. Paint was still foggy

Even tried powergloss and it didn't work

I tried 600-1600 but it wouldn't go away and I usually spend a few minutes per panel with each product

However have used them on my hilux and results were great



Ended up going back to Intensive polish and FP II and results are outstanding

I am using edge classic 8 inch foam pads and used yellow medium cut pad to cut

Can't get black pad unfortunately



I start at 600 for 20 seconds, move up to 1000 for up to a minute then up to 1200-1500 and back down to 600 again and all done



If this process isn't right for RD, please give me proper useage instructions

Am using a couple quick mists of water on pad as if I don't do that the pad won't glide over surface



Thanks
 
All I know is after Men PO85RD my car shines better than any wax or sealant. I wish I could leave it like that without putting an lsp. I have a red RX8. Good detailing!!
 
First of all I hate when they name their products with different names in different countries.



We don´t have Final Polish II in Sweden it´s called Final Finish = PO85U



And PO85RD is called Micro Polish. I find that PO85RD is much better then FPII/PO85U when we talk about getting a shining and slick surface. I get a more rougher surface with FPII/PO85U. I also find that it is much more cut in FPII/PO85U then PO85RD. The prices in Sweden for a 1 quart of PO85RD is around $28 and FPII/PO85U is $30. Intensive Polish PO91L is $25. So I think that PO85RD is the only detail product that is cheaper in Sweden then US.
 
MDRX8 said:
All I know is after Men PO85RD my car shines better than any wax or sealant. I wish I could leave it like that without putting an lsp. ...
Click to expand...



I know what you mean about not wanting to affect the look by applying a LSP.



Not to go OT, but when I reached the "don't want to change *anything*" point when polishing my S8, I tried UPP. I didn't see and muting/etc. of the finish; it seemed like a very "transparent" LSP.
 
On this car I used PO85RD with cyclo and blue lake country pads. The paint was so smoth and as LSP I used Autosmarts Platinum. I think it´s one of the best fine polishes ever.
 

Attachments

  • PICT2707.JPG
    PICT2707.JPG
    51.6 KB · Views: 99
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top