Just purchases a Mytee Lite II...any tips for using

bdaly84

New member
Well, I have been using a Bissell for the last 2 years and I pulled the trigger on an extractor. I was comparing them and found the Mytee Lite II to be the best for the money and space I have to work with in my truck.



My question is...how different is the extractor going to be from the bissell. Obviously size, power and effectivness, but how bout the use of the machine. Is there anything I should know from the experiences you all have had. I am pumped to use it this week. I have an 06 CTS and 07 Tahoe coming up, that I would like to use it in.
 
buy a professional preconditioner, IE ultra pcka or biokleen's traffic lane cleaner. Then use a profissional rinse agent. all fiber rinse, dry slurry. Your carpet and fabric detailes will be amazing.
 
Grouse said:
buy a professional preconditioner, IE ultra pcka or biokleen's traffic lane cleaner. Then use a profissional rinse agent. all fiber rinse, dry slurry. Your carpet and fabric detailes will be amazing.



Thanks Grouse. Where is the best site or place to purchase either one? I am so excited to use this machine. :grinno:
 
google interlink supply



I highly recomend Prochem ultrapac LVC and prochem dryslurry as your chemicals





Dry slurry is mixed in the solution tank, and ultra pack is sprayed via 1/2 gallon garden sprayer as your preconditioner.
 
Grouse has you set up good with the chemicals, as far as use it doesn't really work too differently than your Bissell... except for the fact that the Mytee will work 100x better.



I just got my Mytee HP60 a couple weeks ago and it was one of the best purchases I've made. A professional extractor makes all the difference. Enjoy!
 
Oh yeah, I have a question for Grouse... do you recommend any defoamer products, or is this necessary?



I will be ordering the products you suggested soon. I've been using a product called Extract Power, made by Pro, I believe. The company that I bought the Mytee from threw a gallon of it in for free. It seems to work fine, but I trust your opinion so will be using the chemicals you suggested.



Also, these chemicals are good general use cleaners, right? Are there any products you would suggest for more out of the ordinary stains, such as red? I'd like to have a good selection of products to choose from in addition to the general, go to products, should I need them.



Thanks!
 
in most modern product lines a defoamer is not nessisary. It's primary uses is to aid in the removal of some fiber that is foaming your machine.



Lets say you spray down a car's fabric seats. As you clean your suction hose starts to clog up with foam. By adding a bit of de-foamer to your solution tank you can keep your hose from becoming a rich lather. solution tank. This way you spray defoamer as you prep for drystroke and extraction. add just a tiny bit to your recovery tank.



If the products supplied to you make more than a light set of bubbles as you extract and dry vac. Then you need to switch. The more foam in your hose, the less suction, when suction is reduced you leave the carpet and fiber exponentially wetter.



The products listed are general purpose cleaners. they deal with daily oils and soils. They are not spotting agents.



For spotters i suggest the following

Citrus solv (prochem) OIL, grease,tar

POG (bi-o-kleen Paint oil grease) similar to citurs solv

T-rust ( prochem) rust remover

bac-out (biokleen) food stuffs and bio spills)

Stain magic (pro's choice) natrual dye stains coffee (regular), pomogranete juice, wood tanin

Red relief (pro's choice) Syntetic dyes Decaff coffee, kool aid, popsicles

Urine stain remover (pro's choice) Yellowing and well Urine.
 
WOW,thanks guys. I am checking google right now. I said it before and I'll say it again,I cant wait to get thsis thing. Alot of my regulars are coming due for their bi-yearly full detail, cant wait to blow them away,even more than before. I love this stuff. There is nothing like the next day phone call, on how much your customer loves his or her vehicle.:chuckle:
 
Grouse said:
in most modern product lines a defoamer is not nessisary. It's primary uses is to aid in the removal of some fiber that is foaming your machine.



Lets say you spray down a car's fabric seats. As you clean your suction hose starts to clog up with foam. By adding a bit of de-foamer to your solution tank you can keep your hose from becoming a rich lather. solution tank. This way you spray defoamer as you prep for drystroke and extraction. add just a tiny bit to your recovery tank.



If the products supplied to you make more than a light set of bubbles as you extract and dry vac. Then you need to switch. The more foam in your hose, the less suction, when suction is reduced you leave the carpet and fiber exponentially wetter.



The products listed are general purpose cleaners. they deal with daily oils and soils. They are not spotting agents.



For spotters i suggest the following

Citrus solv (prochem) OIL, grease,tar

POG (bi-o-kleen Paint oil grease) similar to citurs solv

T-rust ( prochem) rust remover

bac-out (biokleen) food stuffs and bio spills)

Stain magic (pro's choice) natrual dye stains coffee (regular), pomogranete juice, wood tanin

Red relief (pro's choice) Syntetic dyes Decaff coffee, kool aid, popsicles

Urine stain remover (pro's choice) Yellowing and well Urine.



Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it.
 
bdaly84 how much did you pay for this unit and where did you purchace it from? Grouse that was some good info when I get mine I will be trying that route
 
I know you didn't address your question to me, but I just recently did some extensive research on extractors. I decided on sticking with Mytee as I was able to purchase one locally, and they are even built relatively close to me, so if anything needs repair it will be much easier for me. My choice was between the Mytee Lite II and the Mytee HP60. I wound up going with the more powerful, more expensive HP60 for a few reasons, although the Mytee Lite II is also a really nice unit.



Anyways, if you google Detail Supply Outlet, you will find their site. In my research, they have the best prices on Mytee equipment and their service is great!
 
Just to clarify, it wasn't my intention with that last post to put down the Mytee Lite in any way. Its a very capable unit, a friend of mine has it and has absolutely no complaints. I think I provided a little too much info in that last post.



Anyways, to answer your question... if you compare the stats, the HP60 is simply the better machine. It has larger solution and recovery tanks (6 gallon vs. 3 gallon), more water lift (137" vs. 85") and a few other things. The HP60 is considered a mobile unit, but if you're limited in your space, you'll want to go with the Mytee Lite as it is MUCH more compact than the HP60. After doing a lot of research, I was unable to find anyone who was unhappy with either unit.



What ultimately tipped me over to the HP60 was hearing people say things like, "The Mytee Lite was my first extractor, and it has served me well all these years. However, I will be upgrading to the HP60/HP100." I didn't want to get caught possibly wanting to upgrade in a year or two, so went with the best unit that fit my budget, power, and space constraints.
 
yeah Kpagel sold me on the MLII...reason being is I detail out of my fullsize truck, no trailer, and space is an issue...so I went with the smaller unit...if I had a trailer setup, I would have gotten the HP60 or HP100...



I have used it on a few interiors....NIGHT AND DAY difference over the little bissel machine...cuts down time by 10 times, make less passes, and leaves a cleaner finish....worth every penny!!!
 
757motoring said:
bdaly84 how much did you pay for this unit and where did you purchace it from? Grouse that was some good info when I get mine I will be trying that route



I purchased it from Detail King, Pittsburgh, pa. I have purchased a few things from them and one of the big reasons is that I can have my orders in one-two days, ground ship. I live in MD so UPS has two big hubs one near DK in New Stanton, PA and one here in Hunt Valley, MD. I paid $749.00 + shipping. Again, it may have been alittle more than some other sites, but I dont have to wait a week to get it. I ordered yesterday and should have it today or tomorrow.
 
kpagel said:
Just to clarify, it wasn't my intention with that last post to put down the Mytee Lite in any way. Its a very capable unit, a friend of mine has it and has absolutely no complaints. I think I provided a little too much info in that last post.



Anyways, to answer your question... if you compare the stats, the HP60 is simply the better machine. It has larger solution and recovery tanks (6 gallon vs. 3 gallon), more water lift (137" vs. 85") and a few other things. The HP60 is considered a mobile unit, but if you're limited in your space, you'll want to go with the Mytee Lite as it is MUCH more compact than the HP60. After doing a lot of research, I was unable to find anyone who was unhappy with either unit.



What ultimately tipped me over to the HP60 was hearing people say things like, "The Mytee Lite was my first extractor, and it has served me well all these years. However, I will be upgrading to the HP60/HP100." I didn't want to get caught possibly wanting to upgrade in a year or two, so went with the best unit that fit my budget, power, and space constraints.



I did my homework too. When it came down to it, yes the HP60 would have been nice, but I work out of Colorado CC and my space is limited. Hopefully, I wont be one of the ones who's needs to upgrade in a year or keeps saying "I should have gotten the bigger unit".
 
I never put any chemicals into my extractor. Only the heated water. An extractor rinse should remove all chemical products from the fibers of the interior. My pre extraction process removes stains and so on. About 85% of an interior's junk is removed by the vacuum and is dry soil, or non-oiled dirt. If you don't pre treat the stain properly, an extractor can "set" the stain as water is nature's solvent.

Getting suds in your extractor can damage internal parts. At one time I did put cleaners and defoamers in my machine, but with the better precleaners today, you should be able to dislodge and clean anything and let the extractor just extract.

Heck, with my vapormaster, I'm not using my cleaners nearly as much anyway.



Rob
 
WCD said:
I never put any chemicals into my extractor. Only the heated water. An extractor rinse should remove all chemical products from the fibers of the interior. My pre extraction process removes stains and so on. About 85% of an interior's junk is removed by the vacuum and is dry soil, or non-oiled dirt. If you don't pre treat the stain properly, an extractor can "set" the stain as water is nature's solvent.

Getting suds in your extractor can damage internal parts. At one time I did put cleaners and defoamers in my machine, but with the better precleaners today, you should be able to dislodge and clean anything and let the extractor just extract.

Heck, with my vapormaster, I'm not using my cleaners nearly as much anyway.



Rob





Couldn't have said it better myself!! As for the Vapor Master.... :2thumbs: :wow: is all I can say about ours!!
 
Rinse agents do alot for aiding not only rinsing of the detergents but leaving the fiber softer, with more loft and setting the fiber up for bettery drying. Saying that water will remove all is kind of mis-leading. I have cleaned professionally nearly every kind fo carpet fiber. For 3 years with just water. I then pushed the company to test rinsing agents the difference is significant and cam out to somthing like .004 cents a square foot. I finished out the last 6 years using either or rinse agent or rinse detergent.



Generally rinse agents are a 6-6.5 on the acidic side of the scale, they do an excelent job of removing surfactants (the wetting agents preconditioners leave in carpets, the very things that lead to longer dry times) Left over detergents (detergents left in the carpet will as they dry attract dirt and make a sticky residue.) Many also contain a light softening agent that gives fiber a new look and feel. They also help remove left over emulsified solvents that are common in good preconditioners.



Generally detergents range around 10-13 ph. depending on what kind of detergent or fiber you use. They will leave surfactants, detergents, and solvents. These three things will leave the carpet wetter and more capable of resoiling.



Extraction detergents are generaly a step down from teh above. They most often are granular, and will mix at extremely high ratios. They usually are a 8.5-9 on the ph scale but contain no solvents or surfactants. They generally will remove the two former and set the carpet up for drying.



Water setting a stain is also somewhat misleading. Heat can set a dye stain, Generally wet heat will aid in their removal of most soil stains. Wet heat can set dye stains, but it is not the primary way one should remove dye stains anyway. Dye stains can not in most cases be removed with detergents. They must be removed with process that changes their makeup or oxidizes them. IE red, coffee, natural dyes, urine for oxidizers, Rust, for changing the chemical make up.



As for suds in an extractor. Ith recovery hose goes to a waste tank nothing more. As for a rinse agent going through the solution tank, well why do you think they call it a solution tank. The only issue that might arise is iff you tried to put any kind of solvent, Delimonine is a common cause of this. Solvents will ruin the diaphrams on pumps. Solvents are not rinse agents. Putting an extraction detergent or rinse agent into a solution tank is not going to harm it. Hell my previous boss is still using his original HWE that are 21 years old. Yes they have had new vacuums but the pumps are fine.
 
Grouse said:
Rinse agents do alot for aiding not only rinsing of the detergents but leaving the fiber softer, with more loft and setting the fiber up for bettery drying. Saying that water will remove all is kind of mis-leading. I have cleaned professionally nearly every kind fo carpet fiber. For 3 years with just water. I then pushed the company to test rinsing agents the difference is significant and cam out to somthing like .004 cents a square foot. I finished out the last 6 years using either or rinse agent or rinse detergent.



Generally rinse agents are a 6-6.5 on the acidic side of the scale, they do an excelent job of removing surfactants (the wetting agents preconditioners leave in carpets, the very things that lead to longer dry times) Left over detergents (detergents left in the carpet will as they dry attract dirt and make a sticky residue.) Many also contain a light softening agent that gives fiber a new look and feel. They also help remove left over emulsified solvents that are common in good preconditioners.



Generally detergents range around 10-13 ph. depending on what kind of detergent or fiber you use. They will leave surfactants, detergents, and solvents. These three things will leave the carpet wetter and more capable of resoiling.



Extraction detergents are generaly a step down from teh above. They most often are granular, and will mix at extremely high ratios. They usually are a 8.5-9 on the ph scale but contain no solvents or surfactants. They generally will remove the two former and set the carpet up for drying.



Water setting a stain is also somewhat misleading. Heat can set a dye stain, Generally wet heat will aid in their removal of most soil stains. Wet heat can set dye stains, but it is not the primary way one should remove dye stains anyway. Dye stains can not in most cases be removed with detergents. They must be removed with process that changes their makeup or oxidizes them. IE red, coffee, natural dyes, urine for oxidizers, Rust, for changing the chemical make up.



As for suds in an extractor. Ith recovery hose goes to a waste tank nothing more. As for a rinse agent going through the solution tank, well why do you think they call it a solution tank. The only issue that might arise is iff you tried to put any kind of solvent, Delimonine is a common cause of this. Solvents will ruin the diaphrams on pumps. Solvents are not rinse agents. Putting an extraction detergent or rinse agent into a solution tank is not going to harm it. Hell my previous boss is still using his original HWE that are 21 years old. Yes they have had new vacuums but the pumps are fine.



Wow. Thats very interesting Grouse.



Well I got it yesterday and HOLY SH**, what a difference. I did not have much time to play with it, however I did try it on my wifes Trailblazer, in the cargo area. The truck is an 02, which we bought new and doesnt have any stains and its never really dirty in the back, but the suction and heat are 300% better than that Bissell. I dont even have the good chemicals yet, just use a carpet pre-treat I had, and WOW. I just used water in the tank, and the extracted water was black, with sand in it (from the beach last year). Abosolutly amazing. I cant wait to try it on a customer's interior with bad stains.
 
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