Just got the UDM and have 2 questions.

Jesstzn

New member
First off it looks great .. didn't get a chance to use it as it showed up right at the end of a detail..



#1 Is the shaft where the backing plate bolts into supposed to move in and out? Mine moves out 1/4" or so.



#2 How is the on off switch going to hold up? .. My PC is pretty marked up in that area as I lay it on its back on the pavement a lot.
 
Jesstzn said:
First off it looks great .. didn't get a chance to use it as it showed up right at the end of a detail..



#1 Is the shaft where the backing plate bolts into supposed to move in and out? Mine moves out 1/4" or so.



#2 How is the on off switch going to hold up? .. My PC is pretty marked up in that area as I lay it on its back on the pavement a lot.



#1 -- NO, it should not move at all. The center idle shaft has two pilot bearings. Between the two pilot bearings there should be a spacer that is just about .25" thick. I suspect that you have a counter weight system that was not assembled properly (missing the spacer). It's not possible to put just the spacer in, as the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. We will have to send you a new polisher or a new counter balance. If you want to verify what I'm saying, simply remove the three screws holding the counter balance/eccentric on and have a look.



#2 -- The on/off switch itself is not an issue. The slide mechanism needs resistance to prevent accidental on/off. The modification we will send out includes a small felt pad to apply to the slide to provide the resistance needed.



db
 
David I found the problem .. the "C" clip was either stressed and fell off or not in the groove. When I went to change the pad before I stared it up the shaft pulled right out. I have the Snap ring pliers (old car racer ) so I took off the 3 screws and put in a new "C" clip and all seems fine.



I don't have a problem with the switch action as such .. just more concerned how it will hold up from abuse. I set mine on the pavement a lot pad up when I am removing polish ..



I'll post pix soon as I get back .. I need to deliver the car.



BTW I liked the power and the feel ... little more vibration than I am used to but I might of had the pad on off center too..



All in all I'm totally pleased.



D
 
Ok here are the pix I took when the backing plate/shaft came out. It just looks like maybe the "C" clip wasn't all the way up to the groove and when I pulled up on the pad to remove it from the backing plate it pulled that shaft through the "C" clip giving me the first 1/4" of noticable play then pulled right out when I went to change the pad. BTW at this point the UDM hadn't yet been plugged in or turned on by me .



I think all will be fine .. the replacement clip seems to be in the groove secure.



DSCF1467.jpg




DSCF1468.jpg






Where my switch question came from is this is what my 7424 looks like after 3 summers or usage. As you see its a little beat up in tha area of the switch guard.



DSCF1471.jpg
 
Dee-any chance you can compare the polishing power of UDM and PC, side by side, using the same pads and polishes under halogens?
 
Scottwax said:
Dee-any chance you can compare the polishing power of UDM and PC, side by side, using the same pads and polishes under halogens?



I'll give it a try .. I just wish I had it a week or so ago whrn I did that black 4Runner.

I can tell you right now it doesn't bog on vertical sirfaces when using just the edge of the pad in small areas ..



I'll have to see what comes down the pipe next week .
 
Oh, sweet... I'm glad you had the tool. I was getting ready to ask Lynn to process a warranty call for you.



As far as the switch goes, it is the same mechanism that Porter Cable uses (off the shelf part). It is pretty reliable. The uupdate I'm sending out simply adds friction to the slide to make it difficult to flick on by accident.
 
DavidB said:
Oh, sweet... I'm glad you had the tool. I was getting ready to ask Lynn to process a warranty call for you.



As far as the switch goes, it is the same mechanism that Porter Cable uses (off the shelf part). It is pretty reliable. The uupdate I'm sending out simply adds friction to the slide to make it difficult to flick on by accident.



Ya I can't see processing anything for that . if it turns out its the groove or something causing the clip to pop then ya .. but in all honesty I'm "very" mechanically inclined and a close inspection tells me it was just a situation where the clip was just not seated ... and ya know .. if you assemble enough things .. something like this will happen .. it has to .. we aren't perfect. Its called the Bathtub effect ... and no I'm not going to explain it .. do a Google on warranty and the bathtub effect .. hahahaha
 
Oh, I'm way too familiar with product reliability curves. I had to live and breathe it in the 1990's when I released the first commercial RAID storage array. At a $1,000,000 a copy (entry price) it had to be reliable.
 
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