Just got a new PC

K

kennyg

New member
Just got my PC from Coastal Tools. I have done alot of reading hear and I have looked at sponsors websites. I have 2 cars. A 2000 Suburban, black; and a 97 Escort, Emerald Green. Now I am ready to order products. I am sure I will have to wash, clay, and polish, seal, and wax. Both cars were detailed 1 year ago. I asked them to polish before waxing. Both came out beautiful. I don't see swirls, but they are probably there. What line of products would be good specifically for black cars? There are scratches and on the hood of the Suburban there are tiny specs of something rough. I don't know if it is oxidation, but the detailer told me he could not get it out with polishing.
 
Some picutres would give us an idea of the condition of the paint on the vehicles. I would recomend picking up several foam pads to go along with the PC. I suggest 7.5" Lake Country foam pads with a 6" backing plate. Meguairs NXT, Gold Class, Poorboys SS&S, etc are all good car washes. Any clay will do aswell; Poorboys, Optimum, Clay Magic, Wolfgang etc. The clay should most definitly remove the spots on the hood. The polishes are tough because I don't know the conditon of the paint but you cant go wrong with Poorboys SSR2.5 and SSR1, or Optimum Compund and Optimum Polish. These two mfgs of polishes are very easy to work with and give great results. Just read up on the particulars of SSR2.5 and you'll be fine. Use the SSR one as a final polish and you should be able to go straight to a sealant. 4* UPP is very popular on black and green. The Wolfgang sealant along with Poorboys EX and EX-P would also be good choices. If you want to go all out, wait 24 hours after the sealant and top with Poorboys Natty Blue. Pick up some microfiber towels aswell when you order and you should be good to go! If you can get some picutres up, it'd be easier to give specifics on what polishes would be needed. Good luck!
 
Congrats on the PC purchase it is one of the best detailing tools you can buy in my opinion, the next part of that tool is of course Pads. I use the Lake County pads and you can pick them up from anyone of the sponsors. I use the 6.5 Inch Flat pads and prefer them over the ones with the concave center. Also make sure and get yourself the 6" Counterweight it makes the vibrations less noticeable, you will also need to get yourself a BP with Velcro again most of the sponsor carry them. As for products that is all personal choice. I myself use and swear by Chemicals Guys products. See my Sig below for names. Poor boys is very popular here and I have also heard great things about it at other sites, so again you cannot go wrong with sponsor products. If you choose to buy OTC products them it is hard to beat the Meguiars Professional Line.
Then to begin your process of course is the Clay bar check out the Poorboys sponsored forum he has an absolutely fantastic deal on clay. I am sure others will be along to also help out. Also here are a few links to help you learn how to use the PC.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=47


Richard
 
My PC came with a velcro backing plate. It measures 5 3/4 inches. Should I use this with 6 or 6 1/2 inch pads? Can I use the 7 inch pads?
 
6 1/2 or 7, your choice. I went with 6 1/2 but found the LC pads hard to find on the sponsers site as stated above. I had to order mine from sportscar.com
 
glen22 said:
6 1/2 or 7, your choice. I went with 6 1/2 but found the LC pads hard to find on the sponsers site as stated above. I had to order mine from sportscar.com
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Autogeek has the LC flat pads. That is where i get mine. I would also say go with the 6.5 to 7 pads you want some extra pad over the edge you may even consider switching to one of the sosfter 5" BP

http://www.autogeek.net/vcpad.html

Richard
 
Well, there's not much I can recommend that hasn't already been stated by those above me! I use primarily Poorboys products and absolutely love them for ease of use, but again you can't go wrong with any of the products already mentioned here. Just experiment a little and you'll find the products that you like the best. The only advice that may be of use is be patient, especially with that Suburban! That's gonna take you all day if you're lucky, but on the bright side you'll accomplish two things...One, you'll be a much better PC'er by the time you get done with that motha, and Two, you'll have a gorgeous, shiny black beast for the neighbors to ogle when you're done! Good luck and good detailing!
 
onemeanmachine said:
Just experiment a little and you'll find the products that you like the best. The only advice that may be of use is be patient, especially with that Suburban! That's gonna take you all day if you're lucky, but on the bright side you'll accomplish two things...One, you'll be a much better PC'er by the time you get done with that motha, and Two, you'll have a gorgeous, shiny black beast for the neighbors to ogle when you're done! Good luck and good detailing!
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I agree with onemeanmachine!!! That is solid advise. Especially with a surburban.

Something to consider if the surburban becomes daunting. Just do a section at a time. Using a pc can take considerable time if the paint surface is in need of paint correction. Often times I take a fender and do it in its entirety. wash, clay, polish and sealant. It gives you an idea of what it will look like and it does not tire you out nearly as much. Have done this numerous times with a friends in Alaska. Start right after work. Then work and hour or so. Then clean up and go home to get ready for the next day. It gives you time to have fun, not get tired and something to look forward too.
 
Thanks for the advice. The Suburban is a beast. Just a good washing takes me almost an hour and my arms are sore. Had it detailed once for $180.00. Came out nice but it gets expensive to have it done twice a year.
 
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