Jeweling cured OC2.0?

S

SpoolinNoMore

New member
So long story short, I ended up finishing the majority of the OC2.0 application on my car last night under moonlight/LED's and wasn't able to get a real good inspection of the panels to buff down any high spots with the MF. Do you think doing an extremely light polish (thinking DCP Uno or 205 maybe) on finishing pad would be a good way to level it in a few days or week from now? I still have yet to compound my roof and was planning on doing the OC2.0 application for the roof and trim parts for a separate detailing session.



What do you think would be the best route:

A) light polish on finishing pad the current OC2.0 application and call it good

B) wait until I get around to compounding/OC2.0 the roof and hit up the rest of the vehicle with a "just to be safe" extra pass with OC2.0 (only thinking this because it was an SUV and I don't think I even went through 1/4 of my 20cc syringe so I was afraid I might have been going absurdly light, granted I haven't done wheels/trim/roof yet)

C) other?



This is my first time working with OC2.0 and am very unaware of how it will react. The vehicle was left outside in ~90 deg weather all day today and there was already dew forming on the car a couple hours after I finished it last night so I was already curious about the integrity of my application for at least the horizontal surface of the hood since the dew had settled ~4 hours after its initial application. Thanks in advance :yo:



*edit* upon direct sunlight inspection of it today (~18 hours after application) I don't see any noticeable defects or blemishes, but its a darker grey metallic vehicle so you know how picky it is with seeing defects in that paint (albeit not near as bad as silver)
 
Maybe Chris can chime in but IMO using just about any light polish on a polisher will most likely compromise the coating. You can try and level of the high spots by hand, but I wouldn't use a polisher unless you plan to re-coat the whole panel.
 
I would NOT use any kind of polish that is the slightest bit abrasive. If you have the geebies and have to put something on it, use a wax as Souveran or sealant as like Poxy.



Or Optimum Car Wax OCW is a excellant choice.
 
I was planning on topping it with Poxy a few weeks after it was all complete but don't want to put anything on top of the OC until I was sure I had 100% coverage on the vehicle
 
That would be fine if you choose to top it.



SpoolinNoMore said:
I was planning on topping it with Poxy a few weeks after it was all complete but don't want to put anything on top of the OC until I was sure I had 100% coverage on the vehicle
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SpoolinNoMore said:
d

B) wait until I get around to compounding/OC2.0 the roof and hit up the rest of the vehicle with a "just to be safe" extra pass with OC2.0 (only thinking this because it was an SUV and I don't think I even went through 1/4 of my 20cc syringe so I was afraid I might have been going absurdly light, granted I haven't done wheels/trim/roof yet)
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It sounds like you are considering applying a second coat of Opti Coat in order to ensure complete coverage. If so, don't. Opti Coat is one coat only, and if you attempt a second coat, you will have a mucky mess that is difficult to remove, because Opti Coat won't bond to itself once it has cured. If you really want to be sure that you have complete coverage, you must polish the Opti Coat completely off of each panel that you are concerned about, and then redo that entire panel anew.
 
Thanks Black! Is there a good way to check if I missed any spots? Does OC2.0 have the same water beading properties as other LSPs? I did a thorough 50% ISP and Dawn foam after polishing so it was a completely bare surface.
 
I think I read somewhere Cris Thomas and/or Dr. G recommending the use of Poli-Seal on cured OC 2.0. If I am not mistaken, Poliseal has a little cut that it mirrors or is equivalent to a finishing polish. Maybe, the answer is Yes?
 
Poliseal or Optimum Finish are absolutely fine with a finishing pad on OC/OG. And it will fix a high spot without having to reapply.
 
I know Optimum said all of their products are tested to work together just fine, I might have to get some poli seal and see how it looks compared to UNO on top of OC
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
Thanks Black! Is there a good way to check if I missed any spots? Does OC2.0 have the same water beading properties as other LSPs? I did a thorough 50% ISP and Dawn foam after polishing so it was a completely bare surface.
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It sounds like your prep was adequate, although Optimum recommends their Power Clean as a prep, and it is what I would use. Opti-Coat doesn't bead exactly like other waxes or sealants, and it doesn't feel like them, either. It definitely beads water differently than a bare panel. My understanding is that it sheds water quite well, and has a slightly grabby feel to it once cured when dry. The product should be applied thinly, lest you get that streaky look. I would say if the water disperses from the surface evenly, and it feels the same to you, then you have complete coverage.
 
I would use poli-seal to knock off any high spots. Chris and Dr. G have both mentioned that before. I tried it a few weeks ago on a layer of Opticoat applied months earlier to remove some faint water spots and it worked excellent. Very quick and painless product! It doesn't cut enough to fail the coating, just removes a very small amount of the upper layer. This is why we put the opti-coat on in the first place. So we can use a finishing polish months down the line without eating into our clear coat. A true sacrificial coating so to speak. But instead of the environment sacrificing it quickly we are able to sacrifice it just a bit at a time over a period of years.



Also, any finishing polish and pad should do but I've only used poliseal on my OC gloss up work.



Optimum has said in the past that after the product begins to cure you should try to add more to it and you shouldn't layer it without removing it. Chris has stated in the more recent past (presumably after more testing in the real world) that you can add another layer if you abrade the top level of the existing layer and then prep it. Please verify that with Optimum, don't take my word for it.
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
I know Optimum said all of their products are tested to work together just fine, I might have to get some poli seal and see how it looks compared to UNO on top of OC
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i think uno would take off more than you would want to remove.
 
What is it that makes you want to polish it? Have you seen any evidence of issues. If not, if it ain't broke........
 
Alfisti said:
What is it that makes you want to polish it? Have you seen any evidence of issues. If not, if it ain't broke........
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Exactly. Even though it's much like a clearcoat, there isn't any benefit to polishing it like one.
 
I've used a white hand pad and some 205 to remove the spots. It doesn't take much to clean them up. Typically you'll have to see the car in full sunlight to catch them.
 
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