Jeff's AJ vs KSG

I

imported_NHBFAN

New member
Finally got to try AJ today. So far I've AIO and KSG x 4 on my arizona beige truck.



AJ seems to give the same gloss as KSG. I don't believe I could tell the difference between the two, but AJ is MUCH easier to work with.



I'll stick with AJ for awhile until I get the carnuba bug. I still have unopened NB and OCW.
 
wait a little while then go back and take a hard look at it...it really seems for gain gloss once it has fully cured... :grinno:



-Justin
 
i would say no...in theory it should if any spots were missed, but take what you will from that…depth...maybe, but im still looking into it...I use to put four coats on one right after the other, after like 12-24 hours it really changed its look and had some very nice depth. as for one layer, after an hour or so the shine increases, I have just put a second layer of AJ on my hood after waiting 24 hours...Ill make sure to take a good look at it tonite and tell you if I see any noticeable improvement...



-Justin
 
My car has three coats of AJ, now, each applied at least twelve hours apart. The first coat looked decent after removal, but it looked better after a day or so. The second coat imediately improved the reflections and the shine. The third coat didn't seem to gain much over the second coat. Coats two and three were easier to apply. Thin coats are definitely key. If you remove AJ immediately after application it comes off easily with few, if any, streaks. I have noticed that applying very thin coats not only allows easier removal, it leaves the surface a lot more slick. For some reason, "heavy" application (what would be considered thin/normal for other LSP's) leaves the finish feeling much less slick. As I've said in another thread, this is my first experience with AJ and I've had to apply it in cold weather. Using AJ in warmer temps may be easier and yield even better results.
 
RobD said:
My car has three coats of AJ, now, each applied at least twelve hours apart. The first coat looked decent after removal, but it looked better after a day or so. The second coat imediately improved the reflections and the shine. The third coat didn't seem to gain much over the second coat. Coats two and three were easier to apply. Thin coats are definitely key. If you remove AJ immediately after application it comes off easily with few, if any, streaks. I have noticed that applying very thin coats not only allows easier removal, it leaves the surface a lot more slick. For some reason, "heavy" application (what would be considered thin/normal for other LSP's) leaves the finish feeling much less slick. As I've said in another thread, this is my first experience with AJ and I've had to apply it in cold weather. Using AJ in warmer temps may be easier and yield even better results.
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It was pretty cool today when I applied it. I wouldn't exactly call it easy, but compared to the PITA removal of KSG there's no comparision.
 
4830Deuce said:
wait a little while then go back and take a hard look at it...it really seems for gain gloss once it has fully cured... :grinno:



-Justin
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It did appear glossier today, but I think you biased my opinion. lol!
 
I have topped it with C-Jett and Souveran...C-Jet is a crisper, brighter finish, Souveran gives a deeper, more "Nuba Like" finish...both look very nice over AJ not sure what i plain to put on my car in the spring..I might just pick C-Jett b/c its new and i havent really formed a complete personal opinion on it...



-Justin
 
AP & AJ are the best products ive used in a looong time. the reflection was so deep, i cant even describe it i used it on my harley f150 supercharged i had the truck custom painted the dark factory grey but added a little purple flake to it . the flakes POP like We the People ! id post a pic but i dont know how to
 
wannafbody said:
from what I've read AJ is a newer formulation with anti-acid rain ingedients so it might protect better
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The most effective deterrent, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply an Acrylic polyaminosiloxane or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are sulfonic acid-based so they hold up better to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no cross-linking capability with this technology, and they cannot be properly layered, however, they form an anchor with the paint by etching, which gives this type of polymer its durability and they are heat resistant up to ~ 350.0F.
 
TOGWT said:
The most effective deterrent, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply an Acrylic polyaminosiloxane or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are sulfonic acid-based so they hold up better to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no cross-linking capability with this technology, and they cannot be properly layered, however, they form an anchor with the paint by etching, which gives this type of polymer its durability and they are heat resistant up to ~ 350.0F.
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Am I reading that correctly (i.e., KSG can't be layered?)?



If so, I have to say that my experiences contradicted that in a no-question-about-it way.
 
Accumulator said:
Am I reading that correctly (i.e., KSG can't be layered?)?



If so, I have to say that my experiences contradicted that in a no-question-about-it way.
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Like you I have used Klasse and on a more than one layer application, however the caveat “properly layered” was added as the acid remove some of the previous layer
 
tonipieleanu said:
... and does "properly" mean?
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Layering intimates increasing the thickness of an LSP by the application of new product on the previous layer.

A cleaner wax and to a much lesser extent an acid-based acrylic, the newly applied product will remove some of the preceding layer
 
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