Issues with a new combo

Anyone use 105 with a PFW pad? I got my very first PFW pad a couple days ago and figured I'd give it a good test. But my 105 keeps flashing up on me when I use it. Nothing I can't get off but still I've never had the issue with 105 and wool or 105 and plain foam. Am I supposed to prime the PFW pad first with something? I thought I read other using this combo before. Using it on the makita around 1500 rpm's give or take.
 
The newer version of 105 does seem to work better with PFW. I prime PFW's with 105 in a similar way to how you'd prime a foam pad; work it evenly through the entire pad's surface. Once that's done, put four or five drops on the pad itself, and get buffing. Once the pad is very thoroughly primed, you'll get good working times with 105. Until it's primed... not so good. Like 15-20 seconds. Not much time, but at 1.5k RPM, still long enough to get some serious correction done. It also helps to spur the pad thoroughly after each application. PFW is still my favorite way to work with 105, even over KBM/DA.
 
Jakerooni- You *are* using the newer version of M105, right?



SuperBee364 said:
.. PFW is still my favorite way to work with 105, even over KBM/DA.



You mean that PFW via *rotary* is still your fave M105 method, right?
 
Detailersdomain.com has a new Yellow cutting pad, it's much softer than orange and finishes much better, kinda like a foam version of PFW. Cuts almost as hard as it, it replaced PFW for me.



I personally don't like PFW because it just seems to lose it's cut like halfway through a job, then after you clean it, it never seems to get back to the original cut it had and never finishes down as well. I remember one guy saying that he uses them once then tosses them.
 
Yea this is all with the new version of 105 and on my rotary. After a few good solid testings with the D/A's I'm really shying away from them for any sort of serious work. Even though I can correct with the D/A via whatever method I can still get a better result much faster with the rotary. To me the D/A correcting is proving to be more of a hassle than it's actually worth anymore.
 
Jake, another thing I have done before is also apply a little drop of Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish to the 105 on the pad. This will give you some more work time and greatly reduce the dust. It's a win, win really. If you don't have any Optimum I'd be glad to send some your way.
 
Jake have you tried prepping a clean PFW with your pad washer first?



I personally don't like PFW because it just seems to lose it's cut like halfway through a job, then after you clean it, it never seems to get back to the original cut it had and never finishes down as well.



I've noticed that too. Great cut and finish when you start but that drops off fast.

I find a spritz of water, spur pad and then a finger re fluff, helps.
 
Jakerooni said:
Yea this is all with the new version of 105 and on my rotary.. To me the D/A correcting is proving to be more of a hassle than it's actually worth anymore.



While I'm leaning the other way these days, I do see how M105 via rotary oughta be one *very* time-efficient approach if you can work with the flashing (which I'd expect good priming to help with).
 
Jakerooni said:
Yea this is all with the new version of 105 and on my rotary. After a few good solid testings with the D/A's I'm really shying away from them for any sort of serious work. Even though I can correct with the D/A via whatever method I can still get a better result much faster with the rotary. To me the D/A correcting is proving to be more of a hassle than it's actually worth anymore.



That's my experience too. Cut the scratch with the rotary, get done, then take the swirls out with the Dual Action, not random orbital.



Robert



PS, what do you mean by "flash" I haven't learned any new terms since the 60's.



Robert
 
Accumulator said:
Jakerooni- You *are* using the newer version of M105, right?







You mean that PFW via *rotary* is still your fave M105 method, right?



Yup, exactly.



I do agree that a used PFW doesn't finish down as well, *but* (via rotary), it still finishes down as well as an LC orange foam, cuts much faster and much cooler than orange foam, too. My compounding times have been cut in half since 105 hit my PFW for the first time.



I do prefer the orange LC pad on the DA for 105, though. The times I've used PFW/105/DA I got a ton of correction, but have left a less than desirable finish to be cleaned up.
 
I would recommend the new Yellow Uber pads from Detailersdomain.com , they just eliminated any need for PFW for me. They are a compounding pad above Orange, but they are softer and finish much better than Orange. They haven't really gotten much press over here yet, especially since they are so new, but they are good.
 
Jake have you tried misting your pad with water first before compounding. You don't need to go over board with the water, but a few quick light mists should do it. May I make another suggestion. While I feel that Lake Country makes the best foamed pads, I truthfully think the purple foamed wool pads are just a waste of one mans thoughts. You really need to look into the tuf buf Black lambs wool pad from micro-surface.com
 
LOL seems like everyday new pads are hitting the market. And I usually let most of you guys do the testing for me ;) before I run out and buy new. And I didn't actually buy this PFW pad. It just came as an extra in a kit I bought. Figured WOOT! free pad let's give it a try. But it seem the PFW fad is already on it's way out and you guys all have a whole slew of new suggestions out there. I will be watching the reviews intently and looking into all the suggestions made as I think within the month I will be placing a sizable pad order as most of mine are nearing the end of their life cycles.
 
I have used the PFW with the PC. As stated before, I also mist with water, and frequently use the pad spur and re mist every so often. I really like these pads; although I am also up for trying new pads like the black lambs wool pad, and others mentioned here. They will be my next try...
 
Interesting that people are spurring the PFW pads. I use a dulled screwdriver instead as my regular spur seemed really harsh on 'em.



Got_Leather said:
PFW with the PC is useless to me. I would choose the LC Orange > PFW via PC



The little 3.5" PFW pads work well for me via PC, but IMO the larger ones need the Flex or a rotary.
 
I been washing my wool pads for a few years and no problems at all. Just sit them out to dry. The dryer causes the adhesive to become loose if too much heat is exposed on the backing.
 
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