Is this method okay or do I need to change something ?

Webb

Webb

Member
1 - Washing with Meg's Gold Class 2 bucket method
2 - Claying with Mother's Bar and DP Universal Clay Lubricant.
3 - Wash again
4 - Paint cleaner with Meg's MPPC
5 - SSR2
6 - Meg's Glaze
7 - Meg's Gold Class Wax


SSR2 won't be in every detail,just when needed it.



Thank you
 
I personally don't use a second wash after the clay if using a QD as a lubricant. I just wipe off the panel I was working on and move on to the next one. Which Meg's Glaze are you using? What kind of shape is the paint in currently? You might not need SSR2 if it's in decent shape. I find that SSR1 takes care of a lot of my problems on newer paints.
 
audiboy said:
I personally don't use a second wash after the clay if using a QD as a lubricant. I just wipe off the panel I was working on and move on to the next one. Which Meg's Glaze are you using? What kind of shape is the paint in currently? You might not need SSR2 if it's in decent shape. I find that SSR1 takes care of a lot of my problems on newer paints.
Click to expand...


Ditto Skip the second wash and Audi stated SSR2 may not be needed and then what step you do after that will depend on what you use.

Richard
 
Webb said:
1 - Washing with Meg's Gold Class 2 bucket method
2 - Claying with Mother's Bar and DP Universal Clay Lubricant.
3 - Wash again
4 - Paint cleaner with Meg's MPPC
5 - SSR2
6 - Meg's Glaze
7 - Meg's Gold Class Wax


SSR2 won't be in every detail,just when needed it.



Thank you
Click to expand...
As stated previously, I would skip the second wash and use only the MPPC or the SSR2, not both.
No swirls or blemishes, the SSR2 isn't needed so just use the MPPC.
If you do need the SSR2, the MPPC shouldn't be needed after it.
If you already have the Meg's Glaze and the Meg's Gold Class Wax, then by all means use it. If you're still shopping, I would skip both and use Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, the liquid version.

Charles
 
Meg's Glaze # 7

The paint is in good shape Jeep GC 2000 Dark blue color,but still can see swirl marks and webbing.

I bought both of them SSR1 & SSR2 just in case,problably I'll be using SSR1 instead.

Also I'll be using with SSR1 a Meg's Yellow polishing pad.


Thank you
 
Well, I would just start out with the SSR1. If that doesn't work, bust out the SSR2 and then follow it with the SSR1 to remove any slight hazing that SSR2 might cause.
 
CharlesW said:
As stated previously, I would skip the second wash and use only the MPPC or the SSR2, not both.
No swirls or blemishes, the SSR2 isn't needed so just use the MPPC.
If you do need the SSR2, the MPPC shouldn't be needed after it.
If you already have the Meg's Glaze and the Meg's Gold Class Wax, then by all means use it. If you're still shopping, I would skip both and use Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, the liquid version.

Charles
Click to expand...


I would be using the MPPC before SSR1.

Thank you
 
I would use ssr1 before you use the ssr2. Start with the lowest level swirl remover and work your way up. If you keep ussins any swirl remober esspeicly a strong one youll strip your paint. Other then that it looks good. If u want to wash the car after the clay go for it, no harm just more time
 
CalgaryDetail said:
I would use ssr1 before you use the ssr2. Start with the lowest level swirl remover and work your way up. If you keep ussins any swirl remober esspeicly a strong one youll strip your paint. Other then that it looks good. If u want to wash the car after the clay go for it, no harm just more time
Click to expand...


That's okay to use MPPC before SSR1 ?
 
I do not know anything about the Meg's Glaze so i cannot comment on that. Using the MPPC after claying is ok but may be a a step that also is not needed. Just depends on how rough the finish. I know I will use it after claying on any of my vehicles that have been neglected for awhile just to make sure i get the surface really slick and prepped for what ever the next step might be. Since you then went to the SSR2 but then did not follow that with SSR1 that may also be an issue. I do not see where you said what pad and what speed you used with the SSR2?

Richard
 
I dont see the problem with a paint cleaner then the SSR. I dont see the point with the clay but if you want 2. I think it should work. Im persnaly a paint cleaner kind of guy im into the clay. Hav you tried it yet? If it works use it. If not try something new
 
CalgaryDetail said:
I dont see the problem with a paint cleaner then the SSR. I dont see the point with the clay but if you want 2. I think it should work. Im persnaly a paint cleaner kind of guy im into the clay. Hav you tried it yet? If it works use it. If not try something new
Click to expand...


I wasnt saying the paint cleaner was a problem just saying it really is not needed if he clayed. But i also said I myself do this on occasion and the is nothing wrong with it at all. I actually love the Meg's MPPC

Richard
 
Using a chemical polish to begin with (before SMR's) is a good way to get a good "clean" look at the paint. It may (probably will) remove some things that clay won't, and it will give you a good clean surface to evaluate the swirls/marring you need to take care of.

I'm also glad to see all the advice to skip the extra wash after claying. Not too long ago, it seemed like everyone advocated that, and it's hard for me to see a bigger waste of time on a detail. I guess it's a pet peeve.
 
Webb said:
That's okay to use MPPC before SSR1 ?
Click to expand...
Just to alleviate any confusion from the above posts . . . what everyone is saying is to do a test spot on your car. Start with the least abrasive polish and work your way up to your most abrasive polish/pad combination until you find a combo that will remove the defects on your car. Once you have a winning combination do your entire car with it.

If the combination you end up using is rather aggresive like say SSR2 with a cutting pad then you'll likely get some buffer haze. This is not a problem. Just follow up with SSR1 and a polishing pad to remove it.

As already stated if you use either of the SSRs then there is no need to use the MPPC. Once you have your finish defect free then I would maintain it with the MPPC, because I believe it to be less aggressive than either of the SSRs. This will help to keep your paint as thick as possible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top