Is this marring?

rodeo-clown

New member
I'm still waiting for my Poorboy SSR products to arrive from the States, but a few weeks ago, I did give the hood of my car a once over with ScratchX and Reflections polish.



The results were great, and it did remove some swirl marks. The application was with a MF pad.



However, in direct sunlight, I can't really see swirl marks as I know them, but there are other marks evident.



What are these? Is this what marring is? It is no where else on the car, except for the area I applied the ScratchX and Reflections to.



I'm hoping SSR with a PC will get rid of these.
 

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Sunlight is always the killer, especially for dark cars.



Yes, I would consider that light marring. I'm not sure how hard your paint is, but I'd say SSR 2.5 or less will take those out.
 
rodeo-clown said:


What are these? Is this what marring is? It is no where else on the car, except for the area I applied the ScratchX and Reflections to.



I'm hoping SSR with a PC will get rid of these.





SSR 2.5 should get that out.



The problem is that you say the marring is only were you applied Scratch X and Reflections. You had better find out what is wrong with your process or you will be putting marring back into the paint in no time.
 
Hey compatriot!



Sounds like you induced marring onto those areas...either with the ScratchX of the MF applicator.



Where did you get the MF applicator?



ScratchX is best applied with a soft-foam applicator, and rubbed in well until it liquifies and goes clear.



Why was ScratchX needed?



How long have you had the PC, and from where did you buy it?
 
When *I* use "marring" to describe a problem, I'm referring to any "below-surface" defect, like a scratch, swirl, etching, etc. I use "marring" as a catch-all, umbrella term for this sort of problem since I've used the word that way all my life when referring to damage to wood, metal, plastic, glass, you name it. "Marring" is what you use an abrasive to remove.



The marring on the hood might be from not breaking down the product sufficiently, using too-coarse MFs, having contamination between the applicator and the finish, or smeary residue from the Reflections.



When trying to fix it, work a small area until you get it right. Don't risk making the problem worse on the whole hood. You might get some blue painter's tape and tape off a small area (about 1' x 1') to work. Compare that area with the rest of the hood to gauge your progress.
 
Thanks for the reply guys.



I've only ordered SSR2 and SSR1, so I'm really hoping SSR2 will get that out. Otherwise, it'll be another long International order for SSR2.5 :)



The MF applicator was from a reputable detailer in Australia. The only thing that I can think of is perhaps it was a little dirty? I used two types of pads, one pure MF pad and one with a suede finish. I think I'll by myself some foam pads for next time.



Alfisti, ScarcthX was used to get rid of some water etching. It did work in some areas, but again, hoping SSR2 can finish them off.



The PC that I have is an Aussie version purchased from Bunnings. It is a Hitahi FSV13Y. Waiting for the SSR and the Meguiars pads to arrive before I try it out.
 
Seems like the MF was either dirty, or some oil residues were left.

Try wiping the hood with a MF towel and some QD. Else you have some marring to take care of.
 
The Hitachi seems like a good value-for-money machine. I hope it does the trick for you. If you're still having issues, we'll be glad to offer you any assistance.



In case you do need further help after trying the Hitachi, I thought I'd mention that the Hitachi ROB is not a PC - PC representing the brand name Porter Cable, and specifically the model widely used on Autopia.



I say this not to be critical, but to alert you to the fact that a PC and a FSV13Y have different specifications and abilities. For example the Variable Speed of the Hitachi is 6,500-11,000 opm, while the Porter Cable is 2,500 to 6,000 opm. The Hitachi has a 270W motor, the PC is 400W.



This means that if you refer to using a PC, you'll get advice about speed settings and pressure application specific to the Porter Cable, not to another brand. A speed setting of 5 on a PC is not the same a 5 on the Hitachi.



I hope this will help you avoid experiencing any confusion and frustration in the future, when given recommendations. :xyxthumbs
 
Thanks for the heads up Alfisti.



I generally refer to the Hitachi as a PC for our American friends ;)



But you do bring up a good point. With regards to the speed I use on the Hitachi, as the variable speed is greater than the PC, should I not be using the max setting? Can you recommend a setting to use?



On a similar subjet, the other day I noticed some dirt I couldn't remove with a regular wash. I cracked open the ever trusting AIO and it did remove it. However today, in sunlight again, I was given a rude shock. More marring. Seems like it is my MF applicator.



Here's a shot of the marring visible in the sun (as well as the myriad of swirl marks). I'm counting the days until my SSR arrived!!!
 
Pads.



MF suede on the left, terry cotton type on the right.



I can't remember exactly which I used :(
 

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Sometimes even very soft feeling MF can mar certain paints.



I'd wash with a strong solution, clay, and then use the polishes with your Hitachi at a fairly low speed setting (that's after seeng what it's range is). And I'd get new MFs too, some really good ones of known quality. Money well spent, IMO. Wash them before using and watch that everything stays perfectly clean.



But I'd still work small areas until you get the whole thing sorted out.
 
I'd be suprised if a couple of passes with SSR1 and a polishing pad didn't take that out. You might have to step up to the SSR2 but I doubt it. I'm more and more impresed with SSR1 every time I use it.



Andy
 
rodeo-clown said:
Pads.



MF suede on the left, terry cotton type on the right.



I can't remember exactly which I used :(



Did you keep the label off the paint ?



I un-pick all the labels off my MF products.



WD :xyxthumbs
 
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