Is This A Paint Burn?

Yep, looks like polished base coat to me. I got one of these - applied over 6 coats of Klasse SG to make sure there is decent protection on top of it.
 
Cheers guys, that's what I suspected. That was a 4 inch yellow edge pad with IP on a Cyclo in less than 1 minutes :(.



I assume a reapray will require base & clear coat, not just the latter?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Another overheated urethane bumper...that's like the 3rd one this week.
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Maybe we should create a sticky post about not polishing non-metalic panels, due to the risk of catastrophic paint failure?
 
GoudyL said:
Maybe we should create a sticky post about not polishing non-metalic panels, due to the risk of catastrophic paint failure?
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Or one about being careful on plastic panels? Aren't you being a little extreme? Don't we all risk catastrophic paint failure everytime we touch a polisher to a car, even if it's less risky on a metal panel? Do we know if someone has been there before and thinned the clear? You can buy a new car and still have had it polished somewhere along the line at the mfr., port, dealer. I bought a car that had been sitting on the lot and wouldn't let them wash it. The whole car was in need of claying except for an 8" or so square on the rear deck...obviously something happened there that was polished out...perhaps that's a metal panel paint failure waiting to happen after some kid with a rotary polished it to an inch of its life and I come along with my PC or Flex and burn through the rest of the way.



All newbs (and even experienced detailers) are at risk of catastrophic failure by using an inappropriate product or technique, or for the reason mentioned above, or a bad repaint, etc. Opting to not polish is kind of a knee-jerk over reaction; we should be emphasizing education and caution.
 
whoa whoa whoa.......back the detail truck up.





JUST when i thought i had this whole thing figured out, now i can't use my brand new PC on my plastic bumpers?!



I'd like to side with the education side rather than the knee-jerk reaction.





What is the proper course of attack for my bumpers?
 
Mr. Vapor said:
whoa whoa whoa.......back the detail truck up.





JUST when i thought i had this whole thing figured out, now i can't use my brand new PC on my plastic bumpers?!



I'd like to side with the education side rather than the knee-jerk reaction.





What is the proper course of attack for my bumpers?
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Of course you can use your PC on your bumpers. You just need to use a less aggressive technique and/or pads and polishes. There are a couple things going on with bumpers. First they are covered with a relative thin plastic/vinyl shell that doesn't have the same heat sink that metal does and second they are painted with a different paint. The bumper paint is quite a bit more flexible and able to resist chipping better than the paint on the rest of the car. This paint can't take the heat so you need to modify your approach is all. I've used a DA for 13 years on all kinds of cars and their bumpers and have never had a single issue. I am just more cautious to using less pressure and not letting them heat up. Just use good judgement and caution and you will be fine.
 
And stop often and feel the surface you are polishing to see if it's getting hot, that will give you an idea of the effect you are having and whether you are getting into a danger zone. As stated earlier in this thread or elsewhere...once you get it to a certain temp...the damage is almost instantaneous (no warning).
 
Well this little learning curve has cost me £200 :bawling:. Goes in on Monday, should be back Tuesday night.
 
Yes, I learned when I was 16 (hell, thats 8 years ago now) that rotary on plastic bumper can equal $$$ instantly... no warning!



Cost me $300cdn to get the bumper resprayed for them, but hey, I learned a lot and have never done damage since!
 
PFW followed up with a finishing pad via DA would seem to me to be the safest way to remove substantial defects on urethane bumpers, no?
 
GS4_Fiend said:
Yellow pads is the most aggressive pad.
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The LC yellow foam pad is among the most aggressive *foam* pads, but wool pads get quite a bit more aggressive.



OCKlasse said:
PFW followed up with a finishing pad via DA would seem to me to be the safest way to remove substantial defects on urethane bumpers, no?
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Unfortunately, foam has become, IMO, waaaaay too popular for doing actual correction. Wool is *much* safer. You are far, far FAR less apt to heat a plastic panel up to failure temperatures when using wool for any given amount of correction than a foam pad.



PFW is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much safer than foam for correcting *any* surface, not just plastic. (no, my "o" key didn't get stuck. It really is that much safer.)



It's faster, finishes down better (most of the time), is easier to use, develops less heat, and did I mention it's safer?



Why guys even *bother* with foam pads for correction makes me go :nixweiss
 
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