Is it possible to eliminate swirls with a PC?

I

insmanblue

New member
I bought a PC 7424 a couple years back and I never could eliminate swirls. I use orange, white and grey pads. I have used Finesse-it II, Sonus Swirl Buster and Ultra Cutting Creme Light and no luck. Even though I have a dark blue car, I can live with some swirls but I would like to get rite of most of them. I use a two bucket system to wash the car and dry with MF. Is there a polish I should be using? Or do I need to buy a rotary? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
 
A PC can go right down to bare metal, so yes it can remove swirls. You haven't given us many clues as to how much product you used, how many passes, what results you saw....etc.
 
I have had the same problem with my pc. I don,t mean to hijack this thread but rather show some interest. The most aggressive combo I have tried is a lc 5" orange pad & meg uc.
 
im not a pro, but i did this with a porter cable



BEFORE

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AFTER

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BEFORE

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AFTER

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BEFORE

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AFTER

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So I think the porter cable can remove swirls :buffing:
 
Some severe scratching, looks like someone took steel wool or something to the paint:

element_roof_before.jpg




After some ZPC on a yellow megs pad using the PC at speed 5:



element_roof_after.jpg
 
insmanblue said:
I bought a PC 7424 a couple years back and I never could eliminate swirls. I use orange, white and grey pads. I have used Finesse-it II, Sonus Swirl Buster and Ultra Cutting Creme Light and no luck. Even though I have a dark blue car, I can live with some swirls but I would like to get rite of most of them. I use a two bucket system to wash the car and dry with MF. Is there a polish I should be using? Or do I need to buy a rotary? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
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Takes time but HD UNO and the orange UNO pad will do what you are looking for.
 
PC on 6, 4" LC orange pad, and Meg's 105 should be able to take care of 95% of the paint defects out there.



A rotary might do it faster but the above combo should get the job done.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone. I guess the answer is to use m105 and m205 with the orange pad. Bryan the step by step you have will be very helpful. I'm just glad to know that some you are producing great results with the PC.
 
insmanblue said:
Thanks for the responses everyone. I guess the answer is to use m105 and m205 with the orange pad..
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Note that I find I still need to use 4" pads to do significant correction via PC. Yeah, I know...I've talked this through with everyone from Mike Phillips to Kevin Brown, and I just don't get the same big-pad results that they do :nixweiss



But with 4" pads, and/or LC 3.5" PFW, sure, the PC can do most anything, especially now that M105 is available. And then there's the SurBuf pad option...
 
Accumulator said:
Note that I find I still need to use 4" pads to do significant correction via PC....But with 4" pads, and/or LC 3.5" PFW, sure, the PC can do most anything, especially now that M105 is available...
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Here is your answer! :)



Cleared up virtually everything on my wrecked, hard, Audi paint (PC XP)! :)
 
Even without using the M105 method its still possible. It just takes the right method to do it thats all. Once you learn how to work the vehicles paint, its usually much easier afterwords...



Super heavy brillo pads marks don't stand a chance against the PC once you have the technique down...

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Guys I have to say that these are very impressive results I'm seeing. I would not of believed it with a PC. Night and day differences. I'm a believer now. So please share with us your techniques.
 
eyezack87 said:
Even without using the M105 method its still possible.
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Yeah, while I'm all about M105 for most correction these days, I did Audis with other stuff for many years. M105 sure speeds things up over other PC-friendly aggressive products though, and it's more oops-proof than, say 1Z Pasta Intensiv.



..I would not of believed it with a PC. Night and day differences. I'm a believer now. So please share with us your techniques.
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Noting that just because very serious correction *can* be done, that doesn't mean it's always a good idea (paint thickness and all that). That said...



I think that in sooo many cases the answer is to work a small area with no thought to how long it's taking. Often, people say they worked an area forever and then it turns out that a) the area was pretty big, b) they didn't really work it all that long (spent hours on a single small panel recently?), and/or c) they weren't being nearly aggressive enough (product/pad/pressure/speed/etc.).



I'd do it this way:



-Determine if marring can safely be removed

-Work a small area, smaller than 2' x 2'

-Work the area with *NO* thought given to how long it's taking; just work the product until it's ready to be buffed off, buff it off, inspect, and repeat as many times at it takes until the initial marring is replaced by the product's micromarring.



Do that in one area. If it takes you a few hours, so be it. Eight, ten "section passes"? I wouldn't even count 'em. Just do it over and over until you either give up or things look the way you want them to. Or you overthin the clear, which I'm gonna keep harping on because I'd rather have marred up original paint than need to repaint because I over-worked it trying to get every last scratch out (no matter *what* kind of miraculous correction people post about here ;) ).
 
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