Ipa 105/205

Greg Nichols

Greg Nichols

New member
Has anyone else seen what happens when you IPA after a 105/205 polishing?



I've spent the last few days noticing that 105 and 205 look outstanding, until you wipe them down with 91% IPA, then slight marring shows up. I took some photos I'll upload soon.



My technique was the KBM, using PFW (rotary), Megs 2.0 burg and black pads (RO). I messed around with my methods but get marring no matter what.





I'm stoping short of saying these two fill defects until further notice...........





Cheers,

GREG
 
Isn't that the whole purpose of an IPA wipe down, besides removing oils? Sounds like it does fill. Would finishing down with a white pad help? Dunno!
 
You went from a burgandy pad straight to a black pad? I wonder if that is the issue since the black pad has very little cut, and removing marring from a cutting pad might require a polishing pad.



I'll post up pictures of my latest detail on a 2008 Infiniti G37S- softest paint I have EVER worked on...finished it out flawless in every sense of the word 2+ weeks ago with a rotary, meg's black 2.0, and M205.



I went back to the car today and checked it in the sun....still flawless.
 
Greg Nichols said:
My technique was the KBM, using PFW (rotary), Megs 2.0 burg and black pads (RO). I messed around with my methods but get marring no matter what.
Click to expand...



Just curious . . . might it help going to a megs yellow after the burgandy?
 
I also did a test with burg105), yellow (205), black(205), and still got marring returning after the IPA. I though megs was billing this combo as a two step.



So the question is why?



Cheers,
 
Greg Nichols said:
I also did a test with burg105), yellow (205), black(205), and still got marring returning after the IPA. I though megs was billing this combo as a two step.



So the question is why?



Cheers,
Click to expand...



Because in many cases it works amazingly well?



Not all paints are the same, you can't expect to be able to use the same combo and have it work 100% of the time.



Heck, I've finished out beautifully with JUST M105 before- other times it creates holograms and tracers galore. Why? Paint varies.



At any rate... I have some work to do, but I will post pictures of a true two step I just did with M105/M205 via rotary for the whole job. No marring, no holograms.
 
Here are the images. I just looked at them on my computer and it might be hard to notice, it looked worse in person.



After polishing with 105 burg 205 yellow then 205 black

1022.jpg




After a 91% IPA wipe down.

1023.jpg




Cheers,

GREG
 
I think a better process would be 105 Burg, and then either M86 or M205 via yellow, then 205 black. Of course, I'm sure you know what you are doing and did what you did for a reason (don't take it as if I am saying otherwise, I am simply trying to offer solutions from my own experience).



Another thought is working time and pressure.



How long do you work M205? I recently realized that when I worked the product until its very limits where it nearly began to dry I would include either holograms or LIGHT marring. I was pushing the product too far.
 
Time and pressure: I worked the 205 for 4-6 passes with quite a bit of pressure, then 2-3 passes with light pressure. Again this is with a PC, not a rotary. The rotary was 105/pfw. The starting defects were deep and bad, so I knew it would not be a true 2 step.



What I cannot explain is paint looked very glossy and near perfect, except for a few RIDS, then the wipe down made it look like I had done nothing with the 205, it looked worse than after the 105 was use. The only thing I did not do was a IPA after 105, I just didn't because I knew I would have to follow up with other polishings.
 
Lumadar said:
I think a better process would be 105 Burg, and then either M86 or M205 via yellow, then 205 black. Of course, I'm sure you know what you are doing and did what you did for a reason (don't take it as if I am saying otherwise, I am simply trying to offer solutions from my own experience).



Another thought is working time and pressure.



How long do you work M205? I recently realized that when I worked the product until its very limits where it nearly began to dry I would include either holograms or LIGHT marring. I was pushing the product too far.
Click to expand...



I have a typo in my photo posting: I was 105 burg, 205 yellow, 205 black. Sorry I'm going to edit it.
 
Weird, What kind of car was this on?



I just finished a Infiniti G35 with strictly M205 with a LC flat pad via rotary, but I did the Kevin Brown Method with it.. Did an IPA and came out just like I polished it...
 
It was a black single stage LIMO from 1990.



I have not worked on a black SS before, so maybe that is my issue. I did notice that the IPA seem to "dry" out the paint surface.
 
like most with pc's, i was intrigued by the meguiar and forum claims that 105/205 with a pc would work great. so here's a quick review...



tested 105/205 with a pc and the black meguiar's 2.0 7" pad on speed 5 as recommended on '07 audi. worked okay i guess--appearance-wise (the paint was already in good shape) but the pc overheated something fierce (first time that's ever happened). did the kb method of priming pad first (made sure to spread light and evenly on pad) with varying degrees of pressure when polishing but wondering if the 7" pad was too much for the pc...pc actually started smoking. waited a while and used 5.5 lc pads. worked a little better but pc still fought it. did 4 passes with the recommended ~30lbs pressure then lightened it up for another 2-3 passes.



did a side by side under flourescents but really couldn't tell a difference between that and my wolfgang 3.0 tsr/final finish polish. oh well.



normally i use 4" pads with the pc but everyone (including the vendor) said try the 7' 2.0 soft buff pads...



oh well, just bought the sample sizes of 105/205 so no big investment (just can't help myself to try something new).



would love to hear some feedback from anyone who's had similar experiences.
 
Greg Nichols said:
Here are the images. I just looked at them on my computer and it might be hard to notice, it looked worse in person.



After polishing with 105 burg 205 yellow then 205 black

1022.jpg




After a 91% IPA wipe down.

1023.jpg




Cheers,

GREG
Click to expand...



In the IPA mixture did you use normal water or distiled water ? It may leave residue from the normal water, even worse if you live in an area where the water is hard.
 
Black single stages have always been finicky for me.

Any chance that the towel you used caused the marring?

It's happened to me and others before.
 
I think everyone is kinda getting side tracked. Everyone is focusing more on the process than the potential filling effect of 105/205. Those pictures sure do make it look like there's some filling/hiding going on.



And if it's paint shrinkage/expansion, etc, why does it only occur after an IPA wipedown? I doubt that a quick IPA wipedown is going to affect the paints, uh, "shrinkage" enough to cause the results shown in the bottom photo. Especially on ancient single stage paint.
 
jefftheman said:
Black single stages have always been finicky for me.

Any chance that the towel you used caused the marring?

It's happened to me and others before.
Click to expand...



Probably not. Greg and I have worked on very soft paints together. A couple of them were so soft that yes, our Eurow MF's would mar them. But it's an easy test to see if that's the case, and I'd be willing to bet a dozen Krispy Kremes that Greg has already checked to see if his Eurows are marring the paint.
 
All I see in the after photo is straight line scratches from what it looks like from wiping something off the paint right above the halogens...
 
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