Interior detailing - wood, chrome, etc...?

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pologuy

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There is a ton of information and YouTube videos regarding exterior detailing - paint, trim, windows, wheels, tires, etc...

But there seems to be a lot less regarding interior detailing - of woods, chromes, etc...

Any good products or YouTube videos on how to get swirl marks out of your interior wood, chrome, etc...?
 
Scratched or swirled interior trim, like wood (or more likely plastic simulated wood), clear plastic (Lexan), and chrome (chromed plastic) caused by using paper toweling and Windex in an "attempt" (albeit ignorant) to clean such surfaces or just wiping it with a dry harder cotton cloth, like red shop towels to remove dust and such. So much for admonishment on prevention and "what-NOT-to-do"!
"Fixing" such scratches and swirls on such surface is "difficult" .
For REAL wood that is most likely varnished or finished, I have no experience with it. I would NOT (pun not intended) use something like a Amish Miracle Milk Wood Restorer or something similar.
For plastic wood and clear plastic, Novus makes a three-step plastic polish cleaner system or use Meg`s Professional No.17
Plastic Cleaner first, followed by No. 10 Plastic Polish in tandem to remove swirls with soft flannel-like low-nap microfiber towels. Might not work for scratches, like those induced by jewelry on plastic gauge covers or instrument ventilation, info systems, or audio/video controls.
For chrome, I use SimiChrome (found at Harley-Davidson dealerships), MAAS Metal Polish (my current preference) ,or Flitz Metal Polish on a cotton swab(Q-tip) for small/narrow area chromed plastic (control buttons /knobs and gauge bezels) and for larger areas (like door opener handles and interior trim) use a soft flannel low-nap microfiber. Just be very careful about chromed plastic; it tends to "peel off" in strips due to the application process to make it adhere to the plastic, so wipe gentile. Also, some trim, like that on door sills is really brushed stainless steel or brushed aluminum metal. That may require some more "vigorous" rubbing. Just be careful to rub in a linear back-and-forth direction with the lines on the metal. Deep scratches and scuffs from shoes and such may be impossible to remove without physical removal of the sill from the vehicle and taking it to a metal restoration shop for professional buffing.

For some plastic trim that looks like painted metal or even wood, I use Klasse All-In-One sealant because it is a chemical cleaner AIO and is not made with mild abrasives and does offer excellent sealant-like reflectively and protection by itself. It also works very well on true clear-coated carbon-fiber trim pieces, or so I have read in this forum, as I have never encountered such pieces. I have used it on faux carbon fiber trim.

One thing to keep in mind is cleaning trim pieces can be a daunting task, but it is a absolutely necessary step before applying a "last-step-product" so listed above to those trim pieces. This is especially true of clear plastic len covers on gauges. I like Optimum`s No-Rinse soap in a clay lube dilution ratio (a capful to about 20-24 ounces of water) because it does offer some lubricity along with the cleaning ability and a soft microfiber. And yes, I do mix in some Optimum Power Clean APC (2 to 4 ounces) with it when the surfaces are really dirty, like cigarette film or neglected years from human body oils from hand touching on control knobs and handles.
 
From what I have been finding out...

You pretty much treat interior wood trim (real wood covered in a clear lacquer, varnish, poly, etc...) in almost the same way you do your exterior paint`s clear coat.

Buffer, compound, finishing polish... seal... - just a slightly more detailed application...
 
I think Lonnie brings up a lot of good info.

if you’re looking at doing correction on interior trim, a lot of what I’ve read reflects what you’ve found - it can be corrected like your exterior surfaces. But, I would approach it like you would piano black pillar trim - expect it to be quite soft and thus use a very mild approach (IE: I’d skip a compound step).

For upkeep, interior wood trim/bright work is one spot where I still like using Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax at Quick Detailer dilution. I’m sure any Rinseless wash would do though.
 
pologuy said:
There is a ton of information and YouTube videos regarding exterior detailing - paint, trim, windows, wheels, tires, etc...

But there seems to be a lot less regarding interior detailing - of woods, chromes, etc...

Any good products or YouTube videos on how to get swirl marks out of your interior wood, chrome, etc...?
Click to expand...


I have used Zaino All In One Cleaner Polish Protectant for over a decade and a half, with excellent results on all the coated wood trim of all higher end vehicles.

That thin wood strip that goes across the dash, either side of the steering wheel and the center dash instrument cluster, and then picks up again, across the top of the glove box, and turns and goes across the doors..
It is always scratched or has defects on it..

This product used with a soft microfiber to apply and gently rub it into the surface, let it dry for a second, and wipe off with a second soft microfiber, has turned all those wood trim panels back to beautiful again..

I have discovered over all these decades that it is almost always fingernails that cause defects such as this, and under the door handles in the door cups of vehicles..

I always treat this product as any very mild polish, and never ever, go hog wild hard on these surfaces.. No machines.. Just gently, carefully, work it, wipe it off, see if it needs more, repeat..

My results are always a very clean, clear, glossy, surface, like when it was new; and it has a little Zaino protectant on it as well..

One bottle of this product is 16 fluid ounces and will last forever.. Never needed to buy anything else..

If there is not a local Zaino Rep nearby, try the zainostore.com website out of NJ..
Dan F
 
The finishes on some Interior surfaces are often *VERY* fragile. This can be one of those.."the road to Perdition is paved with.." situations, so pick your battles carefully.

The clear on the (real) wood in the Audis/Jag is incredibly thin and could *EASILY* be abraded excessively. Same with the clear finish on aluminum trim.

I quit aiming for Autopian Perfection long ago as I have zero intention of tearing my interiors apart for refinishing. Heh heh, the damage isn`t from fingernails either..unless you count what the pets have done ;) Hey, [stuff] happens when a car is used daily for a decade or three.

Chrome, *real* chrome as opposed to the stuff on plastic, is, well...chrome. Hard stuff, so don`t expect to do much effective correction on it.
 
Pologuy:
I will stress that I use a lot of cotton swabs (Q-tips) to clean with in those inaccessible seams on interior panels, around knobs and switches, and around window and door seals, and most of all, ventilation air vents. It those little areas you can see, but are hard to reach with clothes and brushes. While it may take an inordinate amount of time to do so, it separates the so-so detailers from those who take this "inordinate mount of time" and that is most apparent when one looks at the interior and it is clean like when the vehicle is new.

Cup holders, center consoles, ash trays, and automatic gear change stick covers or manual transmission bellows all need this detailed cleaning. Steering wheel covers ,seat belts, gear shift knobs, and steering column control stalks are the worst to clean because of the accumulated human oils from years of touching and can be "difficult" to remove. That is one of the reasons I suggest using a good APC and brushing and/or microfibers to clean them thoroughly.

I know that you asked more about "last-step-products" for interior trim to get them looking like-new and shiny, but cleaning them is the first step, and that includes vacuuming. I spend hours vacuuming by dry brushing carpets and mats and using detailing brushes and old tooth brushes to sweep out seams and crevices during vacuuming.
 
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