In Need of Something More Agressive. PFW or Surbuf Pads? Also, Maybe a FLEX?

2

2007TBSS

New member
I have a Griots RO with a 5" backing plate. I have 5.5 Tang and Cyan HT Pads, and most recently I bought some yellow LC pads. I need something a little more aggressive to be used with Megs 105. The HT's seem to be a little fragile and the yellows didn't seem to cut much more than the Cyan HT's.



In another thread, the 2 options I was suggested was the PFW and the Surbufs, but I really know nothing about them. I looked up the PFW and saw that they were purple foam wool? Can you tell me your experience with either of those pads?



If less aggressive pads and more patience is what I need, feel free to tell me that too. This last car had some rock hard clear and it beat me up pretty good polishing that stuff off there and I still didn't get quite the amount of correction I wanted. If I am going to do this part-time for the long term, I need something a little more aggressive to take the burden off my back and time.





Also, in an effort to save me from starting another thread, can you tell me about the Flex? Would it be a better option for what I am looking for here? Maybe I should save the pad money and put it towards a Flex?



Flex dangerous to clear when used by a noob? Finish down well without RO follow up? Capable of leaving swirls and holograms? Also, can the Flex utilize the pads I already have or do I have to buy new ones? Like with a 5" backing plate?



I know nothing about it, but I am interested in it if it's more aggressive than a RO and semi-user friendly to a semi-novice.:o



As always, thanks for your input!
 
Purple Foamed Wool is exactly how it sounds, it's purple wool with a foam layer under the wool fibers. They are pretty popular pads to use for some more serious corrective duties. I cannot comment on the Surbuf pads however.



Flex has a fixed backing plate, 6.5" pads are advisable but you *MIGHT* be able to get away with 6" pads, but certainly not 5.5. (no room for error).



What precisely are you trying to correct that you are having problems with using the Yellow LC pads and M105? This combination should remove some pretty serious defects.
 
2007TBSS said:
The front end was repainted and hard as a rock. I really didn't notice the yellow pads cutting ability being any different than the Cyan HT pads



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/131340-2000-honda-civic-detail.html
Click to expand...



I think that correction looks good. The thing about those deep RIDS, is if you can feel them with your fingernail you'll never get rid of them entirely without a respray. All you can do is take the edge off the scratch to make it catch less light. That'll help reduce how much of it you'll see at normal viewing angles. To get any better then that without a respray you're best bet is using a glaze.
 
I ordered 4 from Detailed Image this am. I have an 02 Mustang GT to detail this Friday, so If they are needed, I'll try them out.



You guys have an opinion on the FLEX? I have done some research and that seems pretty interesting. Like maybe the next step from RO, yet not up to the Rotary.
 
2007TBSS said:
I'm gonna have to look into that. I haven't payed much attention to it so far.



Sounds interesting.
Click to expand...



The popular ones are Danase Wet Glaze (DWG), which is now simply Wet Glaze (version 2.0 now) and the Chemical Guys EZ-Creme glaze,but there are literally dozens of other alternatives.



These help fill (to a degree) imperfections in your clear/paint. So just remember that when they 'wear off' the swirls/scratches will come back.



A lot of folks top a glaze with a sealant or good canuaba wax. Just make sure whatever you top it with doesn't have any cleaning ability in it otherwise you'll risk removing the glaze putting on your LSP.

:cooleek:
 
2007TBSS said:
You guys have an opinion on the FLEX?
Click to expand...



I simply love mine for serious correction, and haven't touched either of my rotaries since I got it (not to say that I'll never use them again though). If the Flex/SurBuf combo won't do it, you might oughta rethink doing it at all.
 
Accumulator said:
I simply love mine for serious correction, and haven't touched either of my rotaries since I got it (not to say that I'll never use them again though). If the Flex/SurBuf combo won't do it, you might oughta rethink doing it at all.
Click to expand...



The man has spoken. If you don't listen to any other advice on this thread AT LEAST listen to this guy. :p
 
I knew we'd see eye to eye on this one Barry! The more we keep talking about sanding, the more Accumulator is going....:think::think2:shocked I know he gets a kick out of it. :)
 
Barry Theal & David Fermani- Heh heh...actually, I *almost* suggested that people oughta consider a (very gentle) wetsanding instead of getting *really* aggressive with the buffer! But then I though to myself, nah... "if you gotta ask, you'd better be careful..." and decided to let guys like you bring that up ;)
 
Mindflux said:
The man has spoken. If you don't listen to any other advice on this thread AT LEAST listen to this guy. :p
Click to expand...



One of these days, I'm gonna send Accumulator flowers or something.:chuckle:



He's always got a trustworthy opinion on any given subject.



I'm am pretty interested in a FLEX. I did a search on here and watched some vids on Youtube and it looks like what I might be looking for. As Autogeek calls it, "a random orbital on steroids."



I wanna do the same amount of correction, with less work in less time. The way I am going, after some serious correction, when it's time to be detail oriented and do the detail work, I'm too tired to care about the details, and that's where the job is "made" in my opinion.



No one cares if you worked for 15 hours buffing out scratches if the interior looks like crap and the windows are half ***. And people that pay good money don't wanna hear about how tired you are.:chuckle:
 
rubbing%20compound.jpg




This stuff is very agressive. It works for removing deep scratches, tar, rust, oxidation, etching, and acid rain on windows.



I always use it on door handles, rearviews, front bumpers, fender wells, and windows.



It has to be SUPER DUTY. Check your local auto body repair shop.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top