Implications of having a large/ oversized wheels

Kikkomann

New member
I've been hearing myths (however you put it) about having a large/ oversized magwheels. Examples of such is having an 17"-19" magwheels (in a sedan) wheel make your car a li'l bit slower, etc.



How true is this? Aside from what I said, is there any factual evidences on the negative implication of having a large wheels (relative to the size of your ride of course)? I'm planning to buy a new set of 17" Bazo wheels next month (my car is a '97 Mitsubishi Lancer GLXi).



Tnx!
 
It's called unsprung weight, and it is very bad. Some bling bling wheels these days are running 40 lbs! Sport Compact Car once ran a 0-60 test, and came to the conclusion (though this is hugely simplified math) that each pound of wheel weight is worth about 4 lbs of weight elsewhere on the car. (So going from 4 20 lb wheels (80 lbs) to 4 40 lb wheels (160 lbs) is like adding 320 lbs (80 lbs x 4) to the car for acceleration AND braking!



Even worse, this weight is "unsprung," meaning it has to follow every bump in the road and will significantly dumb-down the handling of the car.



This is not to say big wheels are always heavy. But be very careful of rims which are done just for style. Try to keep it under 25 lbs each for a 17" size.



Also, be wary of the profile of the tire. Never go below a 40 or 45 series tire unless you want an abrasive ride and the risk of rim damage on bumps.



That's my 2 cents.
 
Do you plan on mouting low profile tires so that you get back to the original tire diameter? If not you could have rub issues when turning.



Autoeng
 
Hey thanks BoxsterCharlie!



I've been looking for a definition of unsprung weight... no one was really able to explain it... now it makes sense.... I always knew how it affected the car, but never really why.



Knowing is half the battle! ;)
 
"Unsprung" weight is exactly what it sounds like - it's not "sprung" :p meaning it's not held up by the suspension springs. This includes things like your brakes, steering knuckles, control arms, etc. Like BoxterCharlie said, it negatively impacts acceleration (for wheels and tires anyway) and handling because you have more weight that has to change direction or speeds. This either wastes horsepower or gives the suspension more work to do, that's why it's bad.



If you can afford lightweight wheels and tires (Proxes T1-S tires tend to be lighter IIRC) then you should try and get them.
 
I ordered the 17" wheels on my A4 strictly for "looks" and the added benefit I can stick my whole hand through them to detail them :D
 
Aside from heaver and a harsher rides, many times the large wheels will bend more easily than the smaller version. This can be especially true of less expensive wheel sets. The extra money spent on a well known respected wheel manufacturer is well worth it. Additionally the more expensive wheels are usually lighter yet stronger than the less expensive brethern. The poorer the conditions of the roads in your area the more careful you will have to be otherwise you will end up with bent wheels. Research your choice of wheel to determine what the real world experience the the wheel has been with others.



Also, some vehicles are not designed to handle the larger wheels. The suspension and steering components may not be able to handle the additional stress of the both the weight of the wheel and the addtional grip of the the usually wider tires. If the manufacturer does not offer a wheel option for the vehicle in the size you are looking at, I would want to do some invetigating into it prior to getting larger wheels.



There was a very interesting article in Autoweek about a month a go about large over sized wheels on trucks and SUV's and the possible disadvantages.
 
I have 17/215/45 Katana VR7's on my Honda Civic and it definitely feels a bit more sluggish than when I had my plastic covered steelies.



As for handling, the added weight would NORMALLY have an adverse affect.....but that usually doesn't happen as most people usually upgrade to wider, better tires with a lower profile. The biggest improvement in handling came when I finally upgraded my wheels.
 
I would also add that lower profile tires (namely 40 and 35 series) can prove detrimental to your suspension components and axels. This may result in prematurely worn struts or shocks as well if not upgraded to a more compatible system along with the new tires and wheels. I have a friend with a 94 Honda Accord, who recently broke his front axel. Over time the 205/35/16s increased the stress on his suspension. The less sidewall, the less cushion.



**EDIT**

Correction, 205/40/16
 
Wow! I never expected thatmy question would garner a substantial amount of replies! I sure learned a lot from you guys... tnx a lot!



For my follow-up questions: aside from the weight factor contributing heavier and harsher rides (unsprung weight), "stressed-out" suspension and steering components , etc., are there any more pointers that I should consider? Should I really buy a "17 wheels or should I go with a 15" or maybe a 16"? I just want a li'l bling to spruce up my ride. (a wheel not to large nor equal or below 14" which I'm currently using). Any advice/ suggestions?



Tnx again...:bounce




Edit: I increased the font size for the visually impaired (myself included!) - Tort, moderator
 
What you can do is increase the size of your font on your responses. After staring at a computer all day, my eyes go crossed trying to read your replies!

:p
 
Spilchy said:
What you can do is increase the size of your font on your responses. After staring at a computer all day, my eyes go crossed trying to read your replies!

:p
LOL Yeah, what he said!



With 14" OEM wheels I'm not sure if I'd go over 16", but it kind of depends on how big the tires are, which would determine how short of a sidewall you'd have to get if you go with a 16" or 17" wheel. Look at one of those tire calculators to help maybe.
 
Spilchy said:
What you can do is increase the size of your font on your responses. After staring at a computer all day, my eyes go crossed trying to read your replies!

:p



And I thought it was me and my old eyes! :LOLOL
 
My stock MR2 wheels were 14". It's getting hard to find performance street tires that small nowadays.



My aftermarkets are SSR, which are semi-forged. Forged wheels versus cast wheels are stronger and lighter, and of course, more expensive.



My 17"s are 3" taller and an inch wider, yet weigh the same as the stock 14s. That' s what you need to aim for to help out unsprung weight. Now some companies are making 17s as light as ~14 pounds, very nice for that size wheel.
 
Let's see, I was happy with 16" on my RS trim level Integra, replacing stock 14" rims. These were actually only "plus one" size as the top Integra at the time had 15" wheels.



I think "plus one" is a good compromise--one inch bigger than whatever the biggest factory size comes with. Make sense? :)
 
It's not just as simple the weight of the wheel. You also have to consider where the weight is on the wheel. The farther the weight is from the center of the wheel, the larger the moment of inertia will be, the slower acceleration will be. Putting a large diameter wheel on your car will have the opposite effect of what a lightened flywheel does (or claims to do). Just some food for thought.
 
yah, what everyone else said! :lol



I put on some heavy (24.5 #'s) wheels, a plus 1 on my WRX last year. And I didn't notice a difference in acceleration or braking (stock are 17# IIRC.) But when winter time came last year, I noticed immedetly when I took them off and put on the stockers. In a faster car, like the WRX, honestly a few extra pounds isn't gonna slow the car down too noticably, but in a commuter type car, like the civic that was menioned above, that has less HP to use, a heavier wheel is gonna make a difference.



Look for a lightweight wheel. rota makes some cheap and light nockoff wheels and the OZ Supperleggara's (sp?) are nice looking light wheels.
 
On your particular car I wouldn't go any bigger than 16's. Realize the cost of good tires really starts going up in the 17' and above range compared to 15 and 16's. On a daily driven smaller car like the Lancer I think the 17's are overkill and will really degrade the ride quality.
 
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