impact driver

M

Marj

New member
I have run into situations where I cannot muscle off a bolt, such as a brake bolt located on the inside. (I am doing a brake job on a G35) I have heard some impact drivers(wrenches) are not worth it.

Anybody have one and would they recommend it? Its pretty tight behind the brakes and so I am thinking a cordless might be too bulky and I won't be able to get a hold on the bolt with the impact.
 
I haven't ever tried an electric/cordless, but my IR air gun has a hard time fitting into a lot of places. Sometimes extensions help, sometimes they don't. PB Blaster and/or heat almost always do the trick though.
 
Are you considering electric or pneumatic? IMO the air impact guns are way better than any electric, so if you have an air compressor i would definitely go this route.



If bulk is an issue though, the dewalt 18v cordless might be the tool for the job but is is not 1/2in (you can get adapters) and not as strong as a corded or air impact driver. You will find a billion uses for this tool as it drives in screws and bolts so easily and it is relatively light weight.

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If you want to go air. I have had great luck with my Ingersoll Rand 1/2-inch Air Impact Wrench.

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If you want to go electric corded dewalt and makita both make great tools.

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Before I got my air compressor I had a 1940 leaf spring bolt I couldn't budge even with a breaker bar. I bought a cheap Chicago Electric 1/2" Impact from Harbor Freight and it did the trick.



I use an air impact in the garage now and just carry the electric impact with me for an occasional stuck bolt I might run into during work. If I used it very often I'd buy a better quality impact, but for occasional use it has saved my butt more than once.



Your problem sounds like having the clearance to use one, either electric or air. I'd invest in some good 6 point sockets, breaker bars, and as yakky mentioned some good penetrants and a way to apply heat.
 
It is frozen from the manufacturer, they torque them on the assembly line so that the first time you want to unscrew them it is really tough. I was starting to round the bolt off, before I decided to quite before I made the job a much bigger deal. It sure seems like I am going to need a lot of muscle from the driver, because even with my breaker bar I couldn't get it off, but that's because I don't have much room for leverage. Since the area is cramped I would prefer electric, but otherwise it would be a no brainer to go with the cordless.

I guess I could get the cordless and see if it fits and try it. If it doesn't work I can then look at the electrics.
 
I'd say the corded models will have more torque than the cordless. Rounding off a bolt is one reason I like to use US made 6 point sockets. You're not only working against the manufacturer who torqued the bolt on but also rust and the possibility they used a thread locker (LocTite).



Soaking it with a good penetrant (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc.) for a day or more will often work wonders and using heat will help break any thread locker if used.
 
One thing I have found that seriously does help is some good penetrating oil. Spray some on and let it sit for a good 30 minutes.



I just replaced the rear rotors, one of the calipers and the pads on the wife's Taurus the other day and that same gorilla that must work at every manufacturer sure enough torqued the caliper mounting bracket bolts to a zilliony billion ft/lbs :)



I have an impact wrench but in most cases I just use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with the air sockets and a dead blow mallet. May not work if you don't have the room but like I said, with penetrating oil the breaker bar works for me in "most" cases....
 
It comes down to how much muscle you need.



Big air tools will typically have more oomph than corded tools, which usually have more guts than cordless ones. Check the specs on a given tool that interests you.





Max torque: 145 ft-lbs

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Max torque: 300 ft-lbs

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Max torque: 345 ft-lbs

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Max torque: 434 ft-lbs

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Max torque: 600 ft-lbs

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PC.
 
Thanks, but it's going to be electric, because of the limited space. I just don't have much room to move a breaker bar and cheater. Suspension arm and the bottom of the fender well, very little movement allowed in between. Anyway, the impact driver will always come in handy when I need to remove the wheels, it will probably cut my time by more than 1/2.
 
Really, don't underestimate heat. A cheap $20 propane torch has gotten bolts out that my 640 ft-lb IR Impact gun could not budge, though it did twist the bolt head pretty well, I was SO lucky it didn't break. I hate having to pull something out to drill and re-tap. That can turn a couple hour job into a couple day job. If its not gonna move with a breaker bar, the chances are good its going to break. In your case, a new spindle is no biggie, but in other cases...eeesh.
 
One more question. I notice most of the impact drivers are 1/2" and I believe most of my sockets at home are 3/8". Should I go with 1/2" and get separate impact sockets just for the impact driver?
 
bcgreen said:
One more question. I notice most of the impact drivers are 1/2" and I believe most of my sockets at home are 3/8". Should I go with 1/2" and get separate impact sockets just for the impact driver?
Click to expand...



regular sockets are not safe

you will want new impact sockets
 
If you get an impact gun, get impact sockets that fit it. I have broken adaptors and sockets on really stubborn bolts. You don't have to get a hole set, just the ones you need.
 
yep, my craftsman sockets have gotten pretty torn up from use on the impact gun (sometimes I'm too lazy to get the impact sockets). The cheapo pitsburgh sockets from harbor freight have done really well though.
 
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