I use SSR line, by default do I always start with 2.5?

M

m4gician

New member
Hey guys,



I wanted to know, basically for any job, just if I had to look at a hood or a body panel, I notice swirling, a slight hazing, I always default to SSR2.5 with orange pad right?



I mean, after that, if there are still swirl marks or hazing I bump it up to SSR 3 + yellow?



I want to be absolutely clear, because as I can only learn these things myself as I get more experienced but I'd love to be able to ask questions about these kind of things.



Since I don't have a rotary, and only using the PC7424, is speed 5 or speed 6 my default speed? I've been going as speed 5, and I don't know when exactly to kick up to speed 6. I'd assume my most powerful swirl and haze removal combo is ssr3 + yellow + speed 6, my question about that is what is a scenario that I would use that combo?



By the way, if this belongs in the detailing forum and not the product forum I understand because there is a combination of both questions in one thread.





***colour references are to Lake Country pads with PC7424.
 
I think you have it backwards...... The idea is to use the least abrasive combination that will do the job. That includes both the product and the pad. Starting with 2.5 and an orange pad when 1.0 and a white pad will do the job well is counterproductive. When a heavier compound is indeed required you step down with the next combo not up.



There is no real default to start with due to different paints, types of clear, or the problems you are trying to correct. Temperature and humidity also play into this. Experience will give you an idea of what might work but trial and error are almost always required on a first time car......that's my approach at least.
 
For any significant swirls I think it's OK to start with SSR2.5, but I wouldn't go directly to a cutting pad. You can sometimes get sufficient correction with a polishing pad and it may even finish LSP. If that doesn't "cut it", then go to a cutting pad. SSR3 is much more aggressive and usually not needed just for swirls.
 
smprince1 said:
For any significant swirls I think it's OK to start with SSR2.5, but I wouldn't go directly to a cutting pad. You can sometimes get sufficient correction with a polishing pad and it may even finish LSP. If that doesn't "cut it", then go to a cutting pad. SSR3 is much more aggressive and usually not needed just for swirls.
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Agreed 100%. If there are a lot of swirls then start off with SSR2.5 and a polishing pad. If that isn't cutting it, bump up to a cutting pad. If that isn't cutting it you could try the cutting pad again or realize that the swilrs may be too deep to safely remove. SSR3 is like liquid sandpaper and should be used with caution on very neglected finishes.
 
WilliamHBonney said:
SSR 1 really isnt going to do anything for defect removal. I also use 2.5 to start as it finishes nicer than 2.
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Sorry but that isn't entirely correct. It boils down to what type defect you want to remove and the severity of it. A soft clear coat can be corrected with the above because I have done it more than once.....Hondas come to mind and some GM cars.
 
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