I love forums as I`m "officially" starting new Detailing Biz and I have a clay problem

JJZ4MR

JJZ4MR

New member
I`ve learned so much in the last few weeks checking out and joining this forum. I`ve been detailing since 1979. I`ve come to the realization that I need to step up my game with professional products and tools. Getting my name of biz settled/domain name/DBA/checking account/accountant advice...etc.

CLAY PROBLEM - My recently purchased 2006 Z4M Roady has what looks to be a spider web spinning contest on much of the car, especially the hood. I`m just new to claying, so I went to local chain autoparts store an bought blue medium Simonize clay bar. I started using Mother`s Showtime for lube. It was going great, I switched to car soap after reading it can be used. I felt like the glide action was not nearly as good. I then read using a strong Dawn dishwashing and water for lube would cut out all the previous coats of whatever may have been used by previous owner. But....after using for a short time, my clay basically melted. It got real sticky and started disintegrating. I went back to Mother`s and fresh clay. What happened ?

After claying using MeGuiar`s Ultimate compound/MeGuiar`s Ultimate Polish/MeGuiars NXT 2.0 in sections, over a 2 week completion time ( always finishing all steps before moving onto next, because needed to work in shade/early AM ) I have come to the conclusion I need to FINALLY break down and get a DA. I thought I was good at what I do, all by hand " oldschool " To be able to clarify, it`s just not possible to achieve the results I want, by elbow grease. I`m compiling my MASTER BUY LIST, but to step it up in products/supplies/tools and extras, I`m going to drop at least $ 1500 to start, but that`s where starting a high end ( my goal ) detail biz. My current clients/friends/associates already have me working on a lot of cars valued at $200K and up. They`ve always liked that I do it all by hand and feel as I go.

Thanks for helping, Jeff
 
Hi !

Yep, some stuff will disintegrate clay. You found one. :) There are a few others..... Best to stick with stuff made for it.
 
welcome to Autopia

there are lots of folks who will help you spend that money on here :)

I generally use synthetic clay sponges or mitts but every now and then I find myself reaching for Poorboys or Optimum claybars when I just want to go old school

I would definitely keep the dish soap in the kitchen

You can get clay lube for really cheap. I`m enjoying using Mckees N914 Rinseless wash (RW) because one ounce of it dilutes out into 1 gallon of clay lube or waterless wash/quick detail spray

As far as Polishers go..I`m a Rupes guy..it`s all I`ve ever owned. If you haven`t used a DA yet, probably wouldn`t go pick up a rotary and start learning, so maybe a Griots Garage polisher and some pads would be a good start for you.

If you plan on starting off a littler higher up the polisher chart I`d look at a kit with a Rupes or Griots BOSS polisher. Flex is also a good option but not sure how user friendly that`d be as a initial option. I`m sure someone else will chime in.
 
I gave it a try with reading about using Dawn, as I really wanted to get to the bottom of things and start clean as possible. Having layers of who knows what on the 10 year old car. Polishing on top of polishes/waxes/sealants just doesn`t make sense to me.

How do you feel Optimum No Rinse compares to the McKeey`s N 914 ? Seem to do the same/dilute the same/multi purpose. I especially like the thought of making my own gallon of clay lube.

How do you think NanoSkin Auto Scrubber and the mits for the tight spots does, compared to regular clay bar ? I`m thinking time ( which I always view as money ) would be better with NSAS. But how is the result compare ?

I like the GG6, I`d be getting the 3" HD backing plate, plus another 6" Lake County Backing Plate, Which I`ve read is more flexible that the 6" GG. All I found with the BOSS polisher was a longer beefier cord. What else, there was not much difference in price if I remember correctly. I`ve got the Boss pads on my master buying list. Going to want some microfiber cutting pads as well. Is using wool cutting pads still a thing. I did a buddies car which was VERY oxidized. With a wool cutting pad, 3M compound and my cheapo orbital buffer, I transformed his car to perfection.

I`ve gotten along for so long with minimal tool/high end polishes/high end waxes....some of the prices I`ve run into with foam cannons/pressure washers/air driers/carpet extractors/ceramic coating kits....I wonder how I`ve made it this far.....and I`m SUPER OCD/ANAL ( so says my GF ) about my own personal car care, of which I own 4 and am always restoring something.

I`ve got a 3 car garage, lot`s of tools and I`m comfortable doing a lot of work myself. I have been using a 10" orbital buffer for wax on/off for a long time, so operating a polisher is going to take me no time to get the hang of.
 
JJZ4MR said:
I gave it a try with reading about using Dawn, as I really wanted to get to the bottom of things and start clean as possible. Having layers of who knows what on the 10 year old car. Polishing on top of polishes/waxes/sealants just doesn`t make sense to me.

How do you feel Optimum No Rinse compares to the McKeey`s N 914 ? Seem to do the same/dilute the same/multi purpose. I especially like the thought of making my own gallon of clay lube.

How do you think NanoSkin Auto Scrubber and the mits for the tight spots does, compared to regular clay bar ? I`m thinking time ( which I always view as money ) would be better with NSAS. But how is the result compare ?
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if you`re gonna polish the car, that will remove the wax/sealant

the N914 is much better than ONR in my opinion and it also doesn`t stain your RW media like ONR does

smells like green apple- so as long as youre cool with that its a good buy if you ask me, but if you already have ONR I`d just use it up and then buy the 914 (to save money)

I have clayed vehicles with the synthetic mitts and they still felt like they had stuff on them so I ended up going over with clay to get it where it needed to be...so each car will be different...I`d say have both because they both can come in handy
 
Nope, I haven`t ordered anything yet, but my master list ( after researching ) keeps growing. I own my business ( mobile personal training ) so I want to be able to have the write offs for all of my startup costs AFTER officially becoming a biz. I have starting compiling my regular car care costs for the last few months and it adds up quick. For clients cars, I just generally use up what I`ve been "testing" on my personal vehicles. I do at times just use basic cheap products for clients, as they are just so happy to have clean, spotless, good smelling vehicle when I do a detail.

Any opinion on Nanoskin Scrubber ?

I performed my first 2 rinseless washes on 2 of my cars this last week...what a time saver on a not all that dirty car and that was just a amatuer wash with distilled water and QD.

My water is extremely hard. Spots everywhere. Have you ever tried any of the hose attached water softeners ? For $30-40 I thought I may try one out there. I have stocked up on distilled water. Huge difference on cleaning my glass, tried some distilled white vinegar and it was impressive.
 
On my car it took a long time, although I did every single square inch of the car. What led me to even using clay was a cloud of white paint from overspray from two assclowns painting a house next to a street I was driving down on a windy day. What is a reasonable price to charge for an exterior medium size car for wash/clay/polish/wax ? I know I`d get faster with experience, but it took me many hours to meticulously clay my whole car, of course with the paint overspray, it was longer, I even had to clay the trim and all the glass.

How does the synthetic clay products I`ve seen compare to actual clay. Is there a big difference in using different makers of clay. What is determining factor of using fine grade or medium grade ? I was shopping price per gram, found Aqua Marine fine grade on Amazon Prime for 310 grams for $ 20. Seems like a deal compared to others, but A) is it quality clay B) would fine grade take longer ?

I can`t believe it has taken me all this time to find claying, but that`s why I joined this and other detail sights. I feel like a stone age cave man, who just fell off my pet dinosaur into NYC.
 
JJZ4MR- Welcome to Autopia!

IMO you oughta look into chemical decontamination systems like ValuGard`s ABC.

If you use the "decontamination towel" approach, you`d better plan on doing a full correction afterwards. Eh, I guess many people need to do one after claying too as claying without marring the paint is a little tricky (but doable).

The inexpensive water conditioners often come with a not-so-inexpensive recharging process. FWIW, I run a dedicated filtration and softener system for the shop and also have a Deionizer system (CRS brand, sometimes use it even though it`s not essential with the softener) ... and I`m not even a Pro. Hard water can cause all sorts of trouble, sometimes even etching paint to the point that it`s risky to fix it.

At the risk of sounding like a complete jerk, are you sure you`re ready for the responsibilities inherent in working on somebody else`s vehicle as a Professional? No, no, not trying to be a wet blanket, just wouldn`t want you to get in trouble if there`s an "oops" on somebody`s pricey vehicle.

Hey, as a Personal Trainer, you might want to check out the current Health and Fitness thread! (Sorry if that`s not the exact name..but I think you`ll find it easily enough).
 
So I looked into the ValuGard ABC and I really liked what I saw. I watched a full video on application and although it`s a multi step process, looks like it`s pretty easy and not too much of a time consumer. I was wanting to take this in small steps. Having a hose end attached softener seemed economical and with doing about 50/50 mobile, I`ve got to be able to travel. I fill an SUV already. Sure a van/trailer would be my progression. I`m actually wanting to work out of my garage primarily, as the loading/unloading is time consuming, plus I never know if I have everything I need. I plan a charging a surcharge for mobile service.

How would this compare with spraying down with Iron X ? Is that what you meant by " decontamination towel approach ".

You are not raining on my parade. I`m very meticulous. I charge $ 100 for a basic wash/wax/interior. I call it a 4 hour detail. I take notes along the process, pointing out different things I come across as I go. I use the notes with the client to upsell for things that could be done on the next detail. I`m also working on a private collection of cars that are all from 1910-1920. Lot`s of nickel and brass polishing.

I`ve got a lot to learn and I thought I knew a fair amount. Up till now I`ve been a using a book called Auto Detailing The Professional Way, by James Joseph as my guide. I knew it was older, I`ve had it since it was new and just looked and it`s from 1992. I had no idea so much has changed. That`s why I`m here.

Last point, I have a full time business. This is just a side hustle, I only want to do ONE CAR PER WEEK, so I`m wanting to step up, but I`m not trying to make this a full time operation. Really I just want to be able to tackle paint correction and overall better results/faster.
 
JJZ4MR said:
So I looked into the ValuGard ABC and I really liked what I saw. I watched a full video on application and although it`s a multi step process, looks like it`s pretty easy and not too much of a time consumer....
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Right, just a series of three washes..
Having a hose end attached softener seemed economical and with doing about 50/50 mobile, I`ve got to be able to travel.
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OK, now I get it.
How would this compare with spraying down with Iron X ?
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My only experience with Iron X was less-than-impressive. I like the VG stuff in part because it`s tested/recommended by the major automakers. Finish Kare has something similar but it can bite ya whereas the milder VG version is pretty foolproof.
Is that what you meant by " decontamination towel approach ".
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No, sorry...the "towel" is something like Nanoskin (you`ll have to look it up, I don`t go that route and lack specifics).
You are not raining on my parade.
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OK, good, it`s easy to [tick] some people off and I didn`t want to do that.
I`m very meticulous. I charge $ 100 for a basic wash/wax/interior. I call it a 4 hour detail. I take notes along the process, pointing out different things I come across as I go. I use the notes with the client to upsell for things that could be done on the next detail.
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OK, good here too, I really like the sound of that.I
`m also working on a private collection of cars that are all from 1910-1920. Lot`s of nickel and brass polishing.
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That`s an interesting gig! Those cars can be, uhm...delicate but I`m assuming you`re being really careful. Your kinda out-of-date detailing text (heh heh, I think most everybody here has read at least one version of that!) might have some stuff that will apply to those, but yeah..in many ways times have indeed changed.
I`ve got a lot to learn and I thought I knew a fair amount.
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That`s a great attitude/mindset.

Really I just want to be able to tackle paint correction and overall better results/faster.
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OK, but I will caution you that with today`s stuff it`s pretty easy to take off a *lot* of paint with little effort/time. That`s good in that you`re not spending forever the way we used to, nor having to rely on a rotary polisher with harsh pads/products if you want to speed things up....but it can be not-so-good in that overthinning clearcoat will precipitate premature failure. IMO it`s mostly just a case of erring on the side of caution and knowing when to say "when", but the Pros here will have better advice on such subjects than Yours Truly (I`m no Pro Detailer, only do my own stuff 99.9% of the time).
 
Thanks for the input. I`m old school, but I`m getting caught up in short order. And now with my pics...
 
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