ht-69 long dry time?

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hey new guy here



any one have trouble with a long dry time with ht-69? humidiy was normal for iowa summer but after 2 hours still not dry! ran out of time/patience and removed it any way and left a haze, removed that with a qd so it looks good now. wasn't fully dry so i doubt if it bonded. was appling and removing by hand on a 6 month old black car.



:usa
 
I have never used it by hand



but I am almost sure that you applied it too thick or you did not work if long enough

it has a polish in it that I am not sure if it can be broken down by hand

it might cause more harm than good if you can't break down the polish!
 
i figured miss-application might be my problem, i'm new to sealants, exspecially ht-69. i started out working it in more but it seem like most of the product was gone, didn't think anything would be left to dry and seal the paint. i'll try it again with that method.



does any one have any experience appling ht-69 by hand? might i be better off with some other sealant since i'm not using a power tool?



:usa
 
I've used HT-69 by hand to get at those locations where I could't get a machine to work due to space or shape constraints.



I used a terry-wrapped foam applicator, and used very little product. Work it by hand until it just about disappears into the paint. Wipe off any remaining residue with a quality MF. Used this way removal is a breeze.



Good luck.
 
smprince1 said:
I've used HT-69 by hand to get at those locations where I could't get a machine to work due to space or shape constraints.



I used a terry-wrapped foam applicator, and used very little product. Work it by hand until it just about disappears into the paint. Wipe off any remaining residue with a quality MF. Used this way removal is a breeze.



Good luck.



did you wipe if off imediately? would the poduct have enought time to stick and protect, doing it this way?

:usa
 
Yes, I work it until it just about disappears and then I wipe off immediately. Here is the description from the TOL site:



Paint Perfection Glaze may applied by orbital or rotary polisher, or by hand. PPG's formula is idiot proof, even on black! All you need is a small amount worked over the surface until it disappears. Follow with a light wipe of a terry towel or terry polisher bonnets. Any of our Carnauba paste waxes may be applied over PPG for added depth of color.
 
smprince1 said:
Yes, I work it until it just about disappears and then I wipe off immediately. Here is the description from the TOL site:



Paint Perfection Glaze may applied by orbital or rotary polisher, or by hand. PPG's formula is idiot proof, even on black! All you need is a small amount worked over the surface until it disappears. Follow with a light wipe of a terry towel or terry polisher bonnets. Any of our Carnauba paste waxes may be applied over PPG for added depth of color.





sounds good to me! i'll do it that way. i really want this stuff to work for me, can't beat the price...



:usa
 
smprince1 said:
Yes, I work it until it just about disappears and then I wipe off immediately. Here is the description from the TOL site:



Paint Perfection Glaze may applied by orbital or rotary polisher, or by hand. PPG's formula is idiot proof, even on black! All you need is a small amount worked over the surface until it disappears. Follow with a light wipe of a terry towel or terry polisher bonnets. Any of our Carnauba paste waxes may be applied over PPG for added depth of color.



well almost idiot proof.... ha ha



:usa
 
hmmm.. I could of swore a few days ago ...I did not see it... anyhow this looks like a rebadged cherrywax.. described almost like cherry wet wax but with improvements.
 
ThEGuN said:
hmmm.. I could of swore a few days ago ...I did not see it... anyhow this looks like a rebadged cherrywax.. described almost like cherry wet wax but with improvements.



I believe it's more of a 1-step product than cherry wax, as it can remove minor swirls and oxidation as well as leave some protection. Works very well via PC.
 
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