How will Iron X affect my LSP?

cf2121

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link to reddit review - https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/49r5t5/how_will_iron_x_affect_my_lsp/

How will Iron X affect my LSP?

Gif + video at the bottom of text

Since I’m sure someone is going to ask, LSP = last step product (wax/sealant/coating)

I remember someone bringing up how using IX on paint would strip your LSP. I didn’t really believe that, but the thought stuck with me so I decided to do some testing.

I have used it previously on my coated Mustang, and it helps keep Gloss Coat fresh and free of contamination. It brings coatings back to life, but how would it react with regular sealants, carnauba waxes, and spray waxes?

My sister’s Compass was in dire need of a wash, so this was the perfect excuse. I was fighting for the last bit of sunlight here, so excuse the darkness in the pictures.

I first washed the hood with Carpro Reset as to not introduce any gloss enhancers, wax, or fillers to the paint. After washing, I clay barred with a Meguiars fine clay using the Reset as lube. Not much came off the paint. To prep the surface for the LSPs, I used Carpro Eraser.

I divided the hood into six sections with 3M automotive tape and used two products from each brand. For Menzerna I chose Powerlock, a traditional sealant, and Colorlock, a regular carnauba wax. From Ammo I chose Skin, the sealant, and Crème, the wax. And finally from Chemical Guys I had XXX wax and V07 spray sealant. CG XXX wax isn’t a regular carnauba, there’s something in there that gives it a little more durability.

I applied each one as per their directions with their own applicators and let them cure for the appropriate time. When they were ready, I buffed off the waxes and sealants using clean towels

After letting each sit for about 10 minutes, I applied IX to each LSP, giving each one about four sprays to cover the area. After about five minutes, I agitated the IX with my wash mitt, let it sit for another minute then went to rinsing. The video linked below is from the initial rinse. I apologize for the shakiness and not making it longer or giving a closer look at the CG products.

Powerlock was fine, like nothing happened to it. Colorlock was gone.

Crème was also gone. Skin stood strong, similar to Powerlock.

XXX I was a bit surprised by. It actually held up pretty well. V07 was all but gone though.

So what can I gather from my little experiment? Carnauba waxes and spray waxes/sealants look like they come off pretty easily with some Iron X. They aren’t very durable on their own, so I’m not totally surprised by this. I think even after a few washes with regular soap you’d be putting your spray wax/sealant or beauty wax in jeopardy anyway.

The sealants didn’t seem to have much of any change, even for only being on the paint for 10 to 15 minutes. And from what I’ve seen on my Mustang, coatings hold up no problem either when introduced to Iron X.

gyfcat before - https://gfycat.com/SeveralFabulousCirriped

video after - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPL8oCiDJOc&feature=youtu.be

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Products and applicators
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Menzerna beads
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Ammo beads
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CG beads
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After IX. Strong sheeting from PL, CL is gone
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Creme is gone, Skin staying strong
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XXX still going, V07 gone
 

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I've seen it recommended by several folks but never used it when I had pbl on my truck. Perhaps i should have.

Thanks for the test!
 
Hmm id never thought to decon a coating


Yeah unfortunately I park about 10 feet from train tracks at work and my car is subjected to rail brake dust on the hour for about seven times a day, five days a week. Couple that with the huge amount of brake dust my Mustang gives off, the parts of my panels behind the wheels (front mostly) get clogged up with contamination pretty quickly. I have to wash my car with IX snow soap once a month to really clean it out, and I apply regular IX every two months or so to really help clean it out.

It really brings Gloss Coat back to life though. After the IX treatments, the gloss and beading/sheeting is right back to where it was the first week I applied the coating.
 
This was a great test. A couple things concern me though. Even though there is visible (by proxy of beading and sheeting) product left on the hood, is there significantly LESS product than before? I guess that's hard to tell. Also, at least at one point, Gtechniq's website FAQ advised against using iron X with their coatings because concern of how it would affect the coating. That is, perhaps, because it was never actually tested so they couldn't advise either way. May have been more of a legal-type disclaimer. Nevertheless, I've been weary about using IronX since then.

Maybe I'll see how it goes with my two cars (c1/EXO and 22PLE / Gyeon boost).

(Sent via my mobile device)
 
Cool test! I found similar results when using Iron X on my Alcoa Durabright coated wheels (Durabright is a factory coatingdone during the forging of the wheels). I still protect them with Collinite 845twice yearly. Much to my surprise the iron X really brought back the beadingand brightness when I had assumed it would strip the 845 (may have restoredfactory coating and striped 845 hard to tell). Regardless without applying moreLSP the beading and sheeting came back like freshly coated/sealed wheels andthey were significantly brighter.

I'll defiantlybe applying some Iron-x to see how the various LSP's hold up on my paint (I'mpolishing soon for car show season). I currently have 845, 476s, KAIO/KSG,FK1000P, DG106/601, and Uber each on different panels of my paint right now fora winter durability test that’s ending soon.


What camera/lens are you using? I'm asking because those low light shots came out fairly good considering the lighting :)
 
Cool test! I found similar results when using Iron X on my Alcoa Durabright coated wheels (Durabright is a factory coatingdone during the forging of the wheels). I still protect them with Collinite 845twice yearly. Much to my surprise the iron X really brought back the beadingand brightness when I had assumed it would strip the 845 (may have restoredfactory coating and striped 845 hard to tell). Regardless without applying moreLSP the beading and sheeting came back like freshly coated/sealed wheels andthey were significantly brighter.

I'll defiantlybe applying some Iron-x to see how the various LSP's hold up on my paint (I'mpolishing soon for car show season). I currently have 845, 476s, KAIO/KSG,FK1000P, DG106/601, and Uber each on different panels of my paint right now fora winter durability test that’s ending soon.


What camera/lens are you using? I'm asking because those low light shots came out fairly good considering the lighting :)

Thanks man! I didn't have any 845 on hand, so I couldn't test it. I would of loved to though seeing as it's so popular.

As for the camera, it's the Nikon D5100 with the 18-55 mm lens. There's actually a 'sundown' setting on the camera which helps in low light.
 
I have used iron X as well as total auto wash to restore beading to coatings. Successfully.

I have never tired this on sealants or wax.
 
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