How to build a 383 stroker motor in 3 special steps. Or ooops i spun a rod.

L

lozer

New member
Insert music from Oso (if you have kids you know the tune)



Step 1 Rev to 6k rpm in a long sweeping turn with a stock oil pan.

Step 2 listen to horrible banging of spun rod bearing.

step 3 throw lots of money at a machinist to make it better.



3 special steps.



So im currently at step 3 but ill throw some pics up of the entire process. (including one of me with empty pockets and a wife beating me)



Here is the video of the last run of the 91k l98 350







On the bright side i came in second in class and 10th overall (out of 80 or so driver)

And the car had a loooooot more to give in braking and handling.





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The carnage



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and the offending rod mocking me daily across my desk.
 
road racing pan by Champ (check)

High Volume melling pump (check)

accusump should be unnecessary with the right pan and pump setup. But im still thinking it would help after spinning a bearing.
 
If the old problem was that the pump was sucking air, the high volume pump will only make it happen faster.



The new pan, assuming it has higher volume and a windage tray and matches the pickup, should do the trick.



There's a reason the big boys dry sump.



The rest of us get to play with pans and/or Accusumps.





Have fun with it!

pc
 
David Fermani said:
No better way to upgrade! That C5 is gonna rip with a stroker. Probably why the high HP Vettes have dry sumps?
Click to expand...



That would be a C4.... ;)



mikemurphy234 said:
David, aren't the dry sumps on the vette's because g-force effect on the oil?
Click to expand...



That is one of the reasons, yes; the other reasons are that dry sump allows for better weight distribution/center of gravity, increased oil capacity, and reduction in fluid drag on the rotating assembly.



HowStuffWorks "Why do some engines use a dry sump oil system?"
 
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head porting time. Might as well give em a good chamber polish, port the bowls and gasket match/ open up the intake and exhaust.



;) don't forget to measure cc after done and make sure there all equal.
 
lozer- Isn't it something how a need to fix something can lead to other stuff while you're already in there? :chuckle:



You gonna DIY it?
 
Yea it kinda snowballed into a bit more. :) anyhow I wont do bottom ends as the clearances and machinery to do it right are not available to me.



So my machinist should be wrapping up my 383 here next week. with 12cc relief pistons, h-beam scat rods, and crank (cast) and some super fancy 360deg lubricating bearings. Then I resemble, sacrifice a chicken to the gods of compression and push rod length checking. then brake in for 500 miles of easy driving change the oil again and giver her some throttle and see if she holds together.

estimated 420hp and 440tw at the flywheel so realistically around 380ish hp and 400tq at the rear wheels.





Putting it to the ground is what caused me to spin a bearing. WAAAAAY to much grip in a loooooooong sweeping turn. makes oil go where it shouldn't.
 
dyno tune not an option as no one out here burns chips anymore, so i'm gonna go with a mail order (pcmforless). I am gonna make sure it's not leaning out with a wideband o2 sensor/data logger.



Canton road race oil pan came today with melling 55hv pump and pickup. All the valve parts are here for reassemble except for the damn gm valve seats. Itching to put her back together this weekend.
 
Update time.


 


It's been quite some time. Sorry for the lag. The motor is up and running I have 8 races on it now and 4 wins (I keep screwing with the suspension geometry). At any rate I hope to be slapping up some vids here of races this year.


 


I got a wideband o2 sensor to check on the pcm4less tune and it's spot on all the way through the power band.
 
Accumulator, 


 


Well thats a bit of a story. So after i got the motor reassembled i had a BMH rear spring on the car (499lbs) newish shocks and my alignment was spot on. I went on to win 4 out of the last 5 races last year.  So i figured I could get more out of it with a slightly softer rear spring and some weight removal.  Well that went poorly as i lost the first race of the year by .1. So i swapped everything back to my "winning" setup and the next race i only lost by .02.


 


But i finally noticed that i've had a blown rear left shock and after thinking back and reviewing my vids iv'e had it out for the last 3 races due to some serious hop when in hard right turns or trail braking into a left.  QA1 rebuilt the shock for free (great company and great service) shock was out of warranty by a year.  but they hooked me up.


 


So i expect to do better this Saturday assuming the weather doesn't go to crap.


 


 


David- I will slap a whole shit load of vids up just as soon as i figure out how.
 
lozer- Ah glad QA1 stood behind their product.  And yeah, sometimes you do find the right combo and "making it better" just doesn't work out.  Heh heh, 0.02 is one of those "could've gone either way" things, huh?
 
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