How similar are VM and MP?

C

Cincy94Max

New member
Okay, I posted this same question in Autopia University, but I only got one response (thanks 'dcswd' for your response). I am hoping I will get more of a discussion here.



I'm claying and polishing my 10 year old car for the first time and I'm confused about MP and VM. I'm going with a VM + EX-P combo for my pearl colored paint and I'm using UP and/or PP to remove oxidation, water stains, swirls, and scratches from 10 years of non-Autopian washing and drying. I'm confused if I need to follow up UP and PP with MP and then VM or if I can skip MP and just use VM. I understand VM has some fillers in it, so should I use MP to get rid of the slightest micromaring and then use VM to fill what I can't get out? Keep in mind that I am using/applying all of these products by hand. Thanks.
 
I would be worried about using UP by hand - it's a fairly aggressive polish, so I don't know if you will be able break down the abrasives by hand - someone else will hopefully chime in to confirm that.



If I were using the products that you mention, I'd go from UP to PP, then VM and EX-P, but that's just me (also I'd be using a PC, so that does make things a bit different I suppose). I don't think you'll benefit much from putting MP into the mix. MP is a very, very mild polish IMO. I've used both MP and VM and I'd say they both do a similar job - both are very user friendly, but VM even more so. Neither will remove much in the way of surface scratches or swirls IMO.



Have you thought about sticking with the 1Z line of products and using Glanz as your LSP? I just used Glanz for the first time last weekend on top of MP (I had no surface defects to deal with) and I'm very impressed with it... gives a highly reflective and very slick finish. Worth thinking about.
 
To be honest, I'm a bit worried about using UP myself, but I haven't read about any line of polishes that are easier to use than the 1Z line. If someone can recommend a fairly abrasive polish that works well by hand, I'd buy that instead.



As for the Glanz, I haven't heard much about it. Whenever I search for a good LSP for white or pearl, I always end up with people raving about VM + EX-P. I want to try that combo first, but I'll keep Glanz in mind for a future purchase. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
You can use UP by hand, just work it sufficiently. It won't be a marathon session like with DACP, but it will leave micromarring. The PP should take care of that.



I use both VM and MP as my penultimate step products, but I've never used VM on a car I prepped with 1Z, so :nixweiss



MP is (IMO) more abrasive than VM, but they're both *very* mild. Either should work OK after the PP, but there's a *chance* that the VM won't be totally compatible with the waxes from the PP and that it won't be abrasive enough to really improve the finish any more micromarring-wise. Shouldn't be a big deal and I wouldn't expect any trouble. Just get the finish as good as you can with the PP before switching to the VM.
 
That's always an option. Ya know, since you're *real* goal sounds like it's to check out the VM/EX-P combo, that *would* give you more of a clean-slate testbed.
 
Ha, my real goal is to learn how to use clay, polish, glaze, sealant, and their applicators for the very first time. Hopefully the car will look better afterwards as well! Thanks for all of your help.
 
Depends who you ask/who did the hand applying ;)



You *do* have to break down the PP's abrasives, or it'll leave micromarring on any paint. But if you use it correctly, it becomes a matter of *your* paint.



1Z doesn't consider subsequent, finer polishes to be mandatory after PP, but some people just can't get a perfectly micromarring-free finish without using MP/WPS. You'll just have to see how it works for *you*. FWIW, I'd have the MP/WPS on hand anyhow since you'll often want a milder product than the PP for "minor" polishing.



Since you're using VM/EX, you might look into the "pro" version of MP. It's a little more aggressive and has less wax in it. Only available in 1 liter cans though, not the little ones. It leaves a great finish, and is definitely more aggressive than VM.
 
Thanks. While we're on the subject, how exactly do I tell on a white colored car if the polish has broken down effectively? Is it something I should see or something I should feel? Will certain lighting help the situation?
 
Cincy94Max said:
Thanks. While we're on the subject, how exactly do I tell on a white colored car if the polish has broken down effectively? Is it something I should see or something I should feel? Will certain lighting help the situation?
Click to expand...



Heh heh, it's one of those things you'll get a "feel" for or a "sense" of...don't you just *hate* Yoda-type responses like that :D



Work the PP quite a while, but not unitl it's completely dry, let alone "turned to powder" or gone. You really will get the hang of it right away. It doesn't really take all that long, but some people just vastly underestimate how long to work *any* polish.



Good lighting is a must when working with colors that don't really show problems, like white and silver. The problems you don't see in the shop will just jump out at you under other lighting. We've talked lighting to death if you want to search on it, but also remember to inspect from every angle lest you somehow miss something.
 
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