How Should i approach this? Clearcoat bubbling

M

MrNorwall

New member
What should i do? Im thinking of sanding the clear off and using spray paint clear.



Heres the pics:



If i do sand the clear off, what is the process



2004345425844499622_rs.jpg
2004315019420722526_rs.jpg


2004391509947122009_rs.jpg
 
You can't fix that beyond a repaint.



EDIT: Perhaps I should have read the entire OP.



I would sand it down with some pretty fine grit sand paper, and then reapply some cleat coat.
 
MrNorwall said:
This color on a 97 e36 is not likely, ive seen two reds in my city with 90k people
Click to expand...



ok but with the help of the internet:think2

I am sure you can find a mirror for a 11 year old car... just a thought
 
Polygon said:
You can't fix that beyond a repaint.



EDIT: Perhaps I should have read the entire OP.



I would sand it down with some pretty fine grit sand paper, and then reapply some cleat coat.
Click to expand...



I'd give that a go. Use P800 and a can of clearcoat. splash it on, and call it a day.
 
I will get new mirrors after i try to paint, it will be learning experience and might look ok, plus mirrors for this bmw will be about $100-$150
 
I dont' have a problem as severe as that.

What I do have is a couple of bubbled areas the size of a dime or smaller on the hood and extensive small bubbling on the front bumper cover.



Both have been repainted in 04.

I'm wondering if it is the paint prep or something I've used to detail.

It does sit in the sun most of the day.



Use Klasse AIO as a rule, but when lazy, Megs Cleaner Wax which I put on by hand.

Sometimes just Quick detailer after brushing it off subsequent to wash.



I used to cover it, but it left fine dust all over it each time.

Seems to be breakdown of the cover along with accumulated dirt bc I live in a heavily industrialized section of SoCal with fwys not more than a mile away north and south.

If not quick with the cover, such as letting the car sit out for a day, all kinds of fallout appears on it.

Then covering it becomes detrimental.
 
"A can of cleacoat" won't last. The only thing that comes out of a can is lacquer.



You'll need to use a 2 part urethane clearcoat. But...you'll need a compressor, gun, regulator, etc. Probably a $300 investment.



Just take it to a small bodyshop and offer $60 cash for the job. It's literally a 30 minute job.
 
AppliedColors said:
"A can of cleacoat" won't last. The only thing that comes out of a can is lacquer.



You'll need to use a 2 part urethane clearcoat. But...you'll need a compressor, gun, regulator, etc. Probably a $300 investment.



Just take it to a small bodyshop and offer $60 cash for the job. It's literally a 30 minute job.
Click to expand...





Are you answering me?

How would it be 30 min and $60 for two different areas?
 
Balthazarr said:
Are you answering me?

How would it be 30 min and $60 for two different areas?
Click to expand...



I believe he was speaking to the OP, who was talking about a single area - who said anything about two areas...?

Chill.
 
It's more than just clearcoat. The clear is clearly delaminating off the base coat. It's not like only the clear can be sanded just enough without going into the base color. It needs to be sanding completely down and fully refinished. Also, good luck bringing back the textured section back to life for good.
 
charlesaferg said:
I believe he was speaking to the OP, who was talking about a single area - who said anything about two areas...?

Chill.
Click to expand...





This is from the archives.

I dug it up rather than start another thread.



I mentioned two different areas on my car.

Had you read my post, you wouldn't have needed to ask.



Check the date before posting.
 
David Fermani said:
It's more than just clearcoat. The clear is clearly delaminating off the base coat. It's not like only the clear can be sanded just enough without going into the base color. It needs to be sanding completely down and fully refinished. Also, good luck bringing back the textured section back to life for good.
Click to expand...



Ideally, yes, sand it all out and prime, base, and clear. $220?



But given the age of the car and condition of the surrounding paint, it might not make sense to spend the money.



The failing edges of the clear could be wetsanded with 800 grit, the entire mirror scuffed, and the mirror cleared. As long as you don't wetsand through the base, it would be $60 well spent considering that the driver of the car has to see that failing spot every time he approaches his car.
 
Balthazarr said:
This is from the archives.

I dug it up rather than start another thread.



I mentioned two different areas on my car.

Had you read my post, you wouldn't have needed to ask.



Check the date before posting.
Click to expand...



Flame.

You bumped it = you checked date.

:work:



AppliedColors said:
Ideally, yes, sand it all out and prime, base, and clear. $220?



But given the age of the car and condition of the surrounding paint, it might not make sense to spend the money.



The failing edges of the clear could be wetsanded with 800 grit, the entire mirror scuffed, and the mirror cleared. As long as you don't wetsand through the base, it would be $60 well spent considering that the driver of the car has to see that failing spot every time he approaches his car.
Click to expand...



Agreed, really small area - might as well DIY since it's so far gone. Can't get much worse, especially if you can't find a mirror locally. Heck, even if I found a mirror, I'd try that myself before replacing it - just to get the experience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top