How porous is paint?

SVR

SVR

Dream Machines
Is it the same as skin and are the pores always open or do they close also.

Finding out how to open and close them and even keep them closed would be the key to eliminating water spotting, improving a sealants ability to bond and cure and durability.



Surely if the pores are closed, nothing can etch, spot or stain the surface and even strip the protection coatings



my brain is always clicking over, thinking of ways to revolutionise the way we do this profession and other things. I suppose this is another thing that popped into my head

I truly believe that closed pores, applying sealant straight after polishing (with the oils still on the paint) and applying a sealant without using prime or similar product before hand will possibly prevent the product from adhering



Anyone know the facts on this.
 
I sure won't claim to be an expert on this stuff, but a few things come to mind:



Older single-stage paint can be *very* porous and modern b/c paint often doesn't seem porous at all; using a Meg's Pure Polish on my Jag's lacquer, I can see it soak in and make a difference, using it on the Audis is a waste of time as it just sits on the paint and wipes right back off. Working with even older versions of single stage, it's even more pronounced- some antique paints will soak up whatever liquid gets on them.



With modern b/c paint, while I suppose heat can make *some difference, I don't see any way to make the pores open/close to the extent that it'd make a *functional* difference; IMO they are however they are, and clearcoat is basically an impermeable film unless it's been damaged.
 
Paint is not like skin. Skin is made up of individual cells with complex structures and multiple functions. It’s alive, constantly active and changing.



Paint is a continuous matrix of a single material. It can be argued that highly crosslinked polymer coatings form a single molecule over the entire surface of a car. But as the coating is exposed to the environment the outermost surface degrades due to chemical reactions with contaminants, atmospheric oxygen and UV radiation.



Paint will have surface irregularities like microscopic cracks, pockets and fissures. A highly polished finish will have fewer and smaller irregularities than a degraded one.



A highly irregular surface will provide more opportunities for contaminants to collect, concentrate and react with the finish, degrading it at a faster rate. But even a perfectly smooth surface still has the same exposed molecules, just fewer of them. It will still react the same way chemically and will still degrade. It will have less surface area exposed and will degrade slower than the irregular surface.



No solid material is actually solid. Even the smoothest and most perfect finish is made up of individual molecules and atoms. Depending on the particular chemicals involved it's possible for contamination to diffuse into the paint itself, actually getting in between the individual atoms and molecules. This is why you can have things like dyes, permanent stains, paint strippers and paints that can re-dissolve (lacquers).



The point to both waxes and sealants is to provide a coating that interferes with the chemical processes that degrade the finish.





PC.
 
[quote name='the other pc']Paint is not like skin...



WOW your description about paint, skin, and surfaces in general hit the nail on the head plus it was short and sweet. :thx Al
 
paint will develope pinholes from atmospheric fallout. The only way to lessen their effects is to seal them with a wax or sealant. I'd really like to see someone come up with a long term clarcoat filler that doesn't yellow over time. I think it would really help prevent paint failure.
 
wannafbody said:
I'd really like to see someone come up with a long term clarcoat filler that doesn't yellow over time. I think it would really help prevent paint failure.
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They did its called clear coat topping part #2 of two part paint, where do you draw the line tho, something has to take the hit from bird crap and swirl marks minor scratches, and clear coat is it, if they always would put at least three thick coats it would be so much better. they came up with clear coat to protect the finish, now we spend our time protecting the protection.
 
Accumulator said:
Older single-stage paint can be *very* porous and modern b/c paint often doesn't seem porous at all; using a Meg's Pure Polish on my Jag's lacquer, I can see it soak in and make a difference, using it on the Audis is a waste of time as it just sits on the paint and wipes right back off. Working with even older versions of single stage, it's even more pronounced- some antique paints will soak up whatever liquid gets on them.
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When I first applied 2180 on my repaint job the first coat seemed like it was soaked in like the paint was a sponge. Not a slick application and took loads of product, relatively speaking. Yes, it's b/c paint. The second coat was much different, somewhat slicker and took much less product. The third coat was more like what how LSP's usually seem to go on, thin and slick. I've read where others have had the same experience.



I don't know if 2180 would behave differently with older paint that was stripped of other products, but that's how it acted for me on new paint.
 
velobard- That's interesting about the 2180..not sure what to make of it though :confused:



It does make me keep "hmmm"ing about trying it on a fresh repaint though, no matter what they say ;)
 
Accumulator said:
velobard- That's interesting about the 2180..not sure what to make of it though :confused:



It does make me keep "hmmm"ing about trying it on a fresh repaint though, no matter what they say ;)
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I waited a few weeks before I applied it, but obviously that's still pretty dang early. The body guy I spoke to wasn't at all surprised and he's never even heard of 2180 before, so I suppose some other products act the same way. I only used it that soon because I knew a nasty winter storm was on the way and I wanted to have some kind of protection on the paint before it was exposed to slush, salt, etc. I don't even have a garage so my car is outside 24/7.
 
velobard said:
I waited a few weeks before I applied it, but obviously that's still pretty dang early. ..I knew a nasty winter storm was on the way and I wanted to have some kind of protection on the paint before it was exposed to slush, salt, etc. I don't even have a garage so my car is outside 24/7.
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It's always tough having fresh paintwork this time of year....I might've tried the 2180 on it too.
 
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