How many times can I compound my clear coat?

P-nut

New member
Let's say I'm using M105 with a medium cutting pad, and 205 with a finishing pad. The car is a '97 Porsche. How many times can I do this polishing regime before the clear becomes too thin?
 
That's a question to which there is no definitive answer, because there are a ton of factors to consider when it comes to how much correction can be done. The best bet would be for you to find someone with a paint thickness gauge who can give you a better idea if there would be any areas to be cautious of, but even that usually won't give you a completely accurate picture of what you have to deal with.



Your goal should ultimately be to maintain the car in such a way that it minimizes any damage requiring corrective abrasive polishing, instead of worrying about how many times you can compound/polish without compromising the clear.
 
Depends on what was painted ( plastic.steel or aluimnum) i have done mine several times but just comprimised the cc on my plastic spoiler but the steel painted surface is still in good shape.
 
P-nut said:
Let's say I'm using M105 with a medium cutting pad, and 205 with a finishing pad. The car is a '97 Porsche. How many times can I do this polishing regime before the clear becomes too thin?



You can compound it until you see the paint transfer on to your pad, then you should have stopped a little bit before that.



OK THAT'S A JOKE DON'T DO THAT. I just couldn't resist.



Now in all honestly I think the best advice would be for you to contact a reputable local Detailer. Not to be insulting at all but just the fact you asked this means a few things:



1. You don't have a paint thickness meter so no one can tell you how much clear you have left.



2. If you have to ask that question I don't think you should be polishing your own car especially notoriously soft Porsche clear.



I am not trying to be difficult at all, just trying to save you from a future heartbreak.



I would suggest having a pro correct it and then Opti coat it.
 
Lotuseffect said:
... notoriously soft Porsche clear..



I can never keep track of how hard/soft Porsche clear is for the various vintages; my last Porsche was a '96 (or was it a '95? Can't remember for sure...) and it was pretty hard.
 
David Fermani said:
I'd hammer it 1 time to remove as many defects safely from the paint and then Opti-Coat it.



David's right. Like him, I don't cut every last scratch, I get all but the very deepest ones, then I remove my swirls and wax. After that I don't use anything more than a dual action with a foam pad. If the car needs more than that, then the person taking care of it doesn't know what their doing between details and removing the scratches every time is a waste.



Robert
 
Accumulator said:
I can never keep track of how hard/soft Porsche clear is for the various vintages; my last Porsche was a '96 (or was it a '95? Can't remember for sure...) and it was pretty hard.



SS or solid black are soft.



Metallics are a little on the harder side, but still very easy to correct.
 
Without a paint thickness gauge, you can only guess how much correction is possible. Which could be very risky, take it to a pro ask to see their work and make sure they have the experience to full fill your needs.If you want to do it yourself start very mild with the correction, do a test spot with the M205 and something like a black pad first. See if that is the result your looking for if not step it up from there, always start with the least aggressive method first.-Jamie
 
gmblack3 said:
SS or solid black are soft.



Metallics are a little on the harder side, but still very easy to correct.



Huh, OK....I guess I'm still looking at things from a pre-M015/MF pad/new-tech polisher perspective. My ss ones were OK, but the metallics were a bear to fix via Cyclo/PC back in the day. Heh heh, I remember my only 911 (a '90 C4) seemed hard as a rock at the time.
 
Back
Top