how long to work in 3M compounds?

boostdfd3s

New member
hey every1,

I have 3M products (PI-III, Medium cut RC, SMR, etc etc) and every1 tells me to work them in until "theyre broken down." However, i have no idea what exactly is ideal, so im looking for like a time constraint for a 3x2 panel. Like 5min? 3min? how long should i work it in?



-Zach
 
I'm no expert. But I use 3M FCRC - 39002 and SMR - 39009. You should work them in until the product sort of starts to powder and disappear a bit. It’s not a timed event but one of look and feel.



I used the 39002 on some really bad scratches on the hood of my truck from apparently someone laying something on it at an Auto Parts Store. I worked it by hand for about 15 minutes which probably included 4-5 apply-workin-remove cycles and then finished with SMR. I was very surprised how well it worked. - My point is depending on what you’re fixing more than one application can yield an improvement over one.
 
It depends too much on temperature and humidity to tell you an exact time. Some people work them until dryness, some just short of dryness (what I do). If you find it's drying too fast you can re-wet it with QD.



You should be able to tell as you use it when the product starts drying because it will change consistency and start to disappear or thin out. Don't be afraid to practice a bit.
 
4DSC is correct, you want to use the compound or swirl remover just shy of drying, do not buff powder or residue into the surface of the paint. Compounds were not designed for this and this will cause scratching all by itself.



As he mentioned, every situation is different. The temperature of the surface, the humidity, the ambient temperature, etc. So we can't say, "It will take two or four minutes of buffing". What you need to do is watch the viscosicity and texture of the compound. When you are buffing it, itat first is white (most cases) and relatively thick. It also gets a sort of "snake skin pattern" because of the pad and PC orbital pattern. WORK THE PC SLOWLY. Most people work too large of area as if they are pplying wax, and do it WAY too fast. You need to concentrate on a small area to break down the compound otherwise you are just spreading it around. Pretty soon you will notice that the snakeskin pattern (texture) is lessening and that the viscosity of the compound is getting thinner. It's literally getting more soupy and wet looking. It looks more shiny to the eye. At this point the outside edges where the compound is very thin will start to haze dry right after you buzz by them. This is your signal that you have broken down all the compound. I take a clean MF towel and wipe from the wet middle to the dry outside and easily clean up all residue. If needed use a QD for extra help.



Hope this helps.:wavey
 
yea that explination helped a lot. My problem was i was doing like 1/4 of a hood @ a time. Now the next question....how often do u change pads?
 
I can usually do a whole hood with one pad. But only use one pad per compound, naturally. Don't mix without cleaning them. :eek:



By the way, boostdfd3s, I sure can't wait to see any of your cars. You have an awesome stable! :xyxthumbs
 
haha thanks for the props. The DINAN 5 and the Vette are my dad's. The rx-7 is my first car and for $14k you really cant beat the performance. I think the pads were my 2nd problem. I NEVER mixed compounds, but i used a pad for about half the car. Not a problem now tho cuz i have two white 3M pads and three CMA pads in the cabinet! :)
 
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