How do you polish in tight areas?
- Thread starter Rexsy
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
I just finished a *MAJOR* correction/deoxidation job on a friend's '93 Audi (rock hard clear) that hadn't been waxed for about 10 years. Doing the tight areas like around the "quattro" script on the trunk lid took *AGES*!
I often pull the cotton wadding off a swab and then use a sharpened swab stick/toothpick to work the wadding in the tight spots like around that script. I use as aggressive a product as will work OK by hand (haven't tried the M105, but I do use 1Z Pasta Intensiv) for the initial work. Note this can take a very, *VERY* long time.
For less aggressive work, a very plush MF will often had long enough nap to reach into the tight spots.
For behind door handles it's simple (if not easy
)...just use a product that works by hand and take as long as it takes. E.g., fingernail scratches behind the driver's door handle on my S8 once took nearly an *hour* to remove! In hindsight I shoulda wetsanded first, but I wouldn't try that very often and I'd use an ETG to check what's *really* going on before/during/after the correction.
Working a 1" x 2" area by hand for more than half an hour will redefine "PIA" for you.
I often pull the cotton wadding off a swab and then use a sharpened swab stick/toothpick to work the wadding in the tight spots like around that script. I use as aggressive a product as will work OK by hand (haven't tried the M105, but I do use 1Z Pasta Intensiv) for the initial work. Note this can take a very, *VERY* long time.
For less aggressive work, a very plush MF will often had long enough nap to reach into the tight spots.
For behind door handles it's simple (if not easy
)...just use a product that works by hand and take as long as it takes. E.g., fingernail scratches behind the driver's door handle on my S8 once took nearly an *hour* to remove! In hindsight I shoulda wetsanded first, but I wouldn't try that very often and I'd use an ETG to check what's *really* going on before/during/after the correction.Working a 1" x 2" area by hand for more than half an hour will redefine "PIA" for you.
qwertydude
New member
M105 by hand is a miracle in a bottle, a real timesaver and doesn't leave any swirls like other strong compounds.
jordanrossbell
New member
Rexsy said:
As mentioned, you might wanna go with the least aggressive first, lets say SIP then 105 or something equivalent...but i really doubt you will do much correction on medium-heavy imperfections with 106FA..even by machine, let alone by hand...i love M105 by hand in these instances...
Accumulator
Well-known member
qwertydude said:
I gotta give the M105 a try sometimes...the 1Z Pasta Intensiv can bite you when applied by hand; leaves tracer-type scratches from the initial cut that can be a real pain to get out.
KnuckleBuckett
New member
Rexsy said:
These work better with machines.