How did I make out?

N

Neofate

New member
*Edit: Came out better than I thought, turns out after discount and maybe an error? Not sure,.. the price ended up being 181$ including shipping. :spot



Here is a crude picture of it right out of the box, wrappers on alot of stuff.. like christmas ;)



udm.JPG




Ok, as many of you know I've been asking a ton of questions on what machine, polishes, pads, the whole nine -- Well I've made my purchase. I will list what I got, and then what I paid.



Please reply if the deal was good, bad, or average, -- ?



And if I should be fairly satisfied with my combination. ?



I've never used a machine, and the paint is excellent shape on my vehicle, I am just looking for that extra edge.







Machine: Ultimate Detailing Machine



--: UDM 5 Inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate



--: UDM Canvas Storage Bag



--: UDM Detiling Machine Wrench (what's this for?)



--: UDM 6.5" White Polishing Pad



Polishes/Glaze: XMT Products



--: 12 oz. XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover #3



--: 12 oz. XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover #1



--: 12 oz. XMT Carnauba Finishing Glaze



--: 12 oz. Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Conditioner



--: 12 oz. Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner



Pads Aftermarket:



--: #4 Wolfgang Low Profile 5.5" Orange Cutting Pads



--: #1 Lake Country CCS DA 6.5" Orange Light Cutting Pad



--: #1 Lake Country CCS DA 6.5" White Polishing Pad



--: #2 Lake Country CCS DA 6.5" Gray Finishing Pads





Accessories Added:



--: #2 Cobra Super Plush Deluxe Microfiber Towels (16x24)



--: #2 Cobra Microfiber Bonnets (These handy for removing wax, or no?)



--: #1 Polish 'N Wax Applicator (2 sided, says good for places polisher can't go.. figured sure why not).



Finally -- I thought of cleaning, and this looked good:



--: Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool (anyone used this, comments?)





Price:



$181.47 (Shipping included + discount of 10%)









Thanks for all the help, and thanks in advance for any reply's on my decision here.
 
sounds good to me. I'd like to piece together a deal similar to that for myself. Just not quite there yet on which direction to go.



Post up a follow up once you've put it to use.
 
I have almost the same stuff. I don't have the XMT#3, though. If you havn't bought it yet, don't. If you go and find all those things in their respective kits, its much cheaper than that one kit. Overall, though, the stuff is pretty good. The XMT polishes are good(though #2 isnt' quite tough enough). They got rid of probably 90% of the heavy swirls I was messing around with today(for fun). I thought the glaze would be crap, but it's pretty decent, actually. I haven't tried waxing over it yet, though. Overall, I'd say that stuff is definately worth buying. The free pads are actually really good, too. The spur works best on wool and dried polishes, but doesnt really get rid of the xmt if theres residue, 'cause it doesnt powder much(though #1 does). lol long post, hope thats helps
 
Its purchased heh, otherwise I wouldn't have listed the price :)



For what I got this was the cheapest I found off every web site combined and not. Also cheaper than individuals trying to sell me and give me 25% off..



I got everything I needed.. I have 21 other products lined up in my garage that I use now.. So I just needed the machine, and polish (the glaze was something I thought I'd try).



My process will go like this:



(I claybarred less than a month ago , the whole vehicle.. 4-5hour job).



Anyhow..



1) Wash



2) Dry (Sheet water) -- Use Water Blade, last use Microfiber towel for last little dots of water.



3) Tape off rubber seals.



4) Load up XMT #3 (Spray some Quick Detailer on the pad) -- Polish the car panel by panel.



5) Wipe her down and take a good look.



6) Load up XMT #1 (QD pad) -- Polish



7) Wipe down again



8) Load up XMT Glaze (QD Pad) - Glaze it.



9) Wipe down..



Should be looking fairly nice by this point.



10) Finally load up NXT 2.0 (QD pad) apply with UDM.



Let it sit for a while.. I like to let the wax sit for longer than most.



11) Try the bonnets on the UDM to remove the wax,.. that is what they are for.. but will probably end up using a MF and by hand hehe..



12) Do wheels, tires, interior touch ups (windows/mirrors)



13) Admire it.



Hopefully it will look better than it does now, it looks absolutely phenomenal right now , and no machine work has been done. Though there are micro-swirls/marrs if you get it in the right light, but not noticable unless you are close and in a proper angle and light due to the silverish color of the vehicle. Polish should have zero problem getting those out.



I'm hoping the Machine and polish steps and the glaze (then sealing over with 2.0 ) will have a significant depth difference. Where someone who see's my car now, will see it after all of those steps and be like wow, what did you do. Instead of walking by and just being like, yup car is still clean like it always is. Meh, we'll see. =)
 
I guess while I'm at it -- What all should be tapped off? All around windows? Anything else? Is that necessary?



And what about bumper areas.. on my vehicle.. 94 Lexus LS 400 the bumper is fiberglass I believe,.. not metal.. and it is painted of course. Do I polish it just like I do the regular panels of the car? No difference right?



I guess that would about cover it.. can't really burn through with a UDM,.. and I've watched video's on the movement and such,.. plus I'm good with my hands on this type of stuff.. should come fairly natural I hope.
 
Looks perfect!



Few questions:

1. what camera did you use to take the photos?

2. in the first after shot, one right below the Meg's bottle, where you used 105 and white CCS, how long did you polish an area at what speed, and how big was the area approximately?

3. in the 2nd to last photo, with hood after shot and 105 and orange CCS, same question as #2? Also, rotary or PC?

4. What wool pad(s) did you use on the side of the car with 105?



I'm asking as I just ordered some 105 and want to hear all opinions from users that I can...



Thanks
 
Hrmm -- So what about my bumpers front and back.. Do I not polish those? Its sort of plasticy heh.. More likely fiberglass. Is painted of course.



I'll be sure to tape off edges of headlights, trim and so on.. blue painters tape the easiest best to use ? I'd imagine when you get rather good at it you don't tape anymore?
 
Though I've never used one myself, most on here will tell you to ditch the water blade.



Before you decide what polish you're going to use, tape off a test panel and start with your least aggressive pad and polish combo and see what you get. Move up to the next level of aggressiveness if you don't achieve the appropriate results. Also keep in mind that sometimes 2 passes of a milder combo might serve your purposes just as well or better than a single pass with a more aggressive combo. You should always aim to remove as little clearcoat as possible.



Yes, use blue painters tape on areas where polish might stain. Around windows is generally the smartest if you're not sure. Consider taping any seams that you feel will pose a problem with trying to remove dry polish from. Textured plastic trim can also be difficult to remove polish or wax from so you may consider taping that up too to be on the safe side.
 
Hmm I have a question that kind of ties in to the masking off topic. I'm gonna do one of my room mates' RSX-s, and I noticed it has a clear bra(the sticker kind) on the lower portion of the hood. No idea who makes it and I have no idea what to do about this. There's some mild scratching on it. I'm not gonna use any polish on it, but should i just mask it off and use some plastx and a glaze/wax?
 
RyanFlemington said:
Hmm I have a question that kind of ties in to the masking off topic. I'm gonna do one of my room mates' RSX-s, and I noticed it has a clear bra(the sticker kind) on the lower portion of the hood. No idea who makes it and I have no idea what to do about this. There's some mild scratching on it. I'm not gonna use any polish on it, but should i just mask it off and use some plastx and a glaze/wax?
Click to expand...



I can't help you here. I would start a new thread on the subject after doing a quick search to see if this has been discussed before. I'm pretty sure it has though.
 
[quote name='Neofate']Its purchased heh, otherwise I wouldn't have listed the price :)





2) Dry (Sheet water) -- Use Water Blade, last use Microfiber towel for last little dots of water.





:soscared: I would use that "water blade" for windows only. Experience has shown that this time saving device for drying will at some point in time have you polishing out :waxing: " water blade" caused scratches. :hairpull



Believe me now or believe me later :wall
 
Gotcha .. good tips, thanks.



Just a little question on 'trim' .. plastics and whatnot.



I'm sure you guys are familiar with the Lexus LS 400 series of cars.. this is a 1994.



Here is a shot of the front bumper/grill.



front.JPG




I thought I could polish that bumper, all of it, top to bottom (aside from grill of course) -- But I'm thinking twice about it now. Should I tape it off now?



The rear is similar material so no point in posting that picture.



Thanks,
 
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