Holograms? Buffer trails? Rotary questions PIC

C

Carbon Blue

New member
Well after reading tons of topics here on autopia regarding noobs and their first time use of a rotary I still have some questions left. I stumbled upon that topic that P1et made about a black ford expedition that had some serious holograms or buffer trails left on it. What caused this problem? Im assuming too little product and too much speed on the rotary?



Also it looks like Ill be spreading some SIP on a 5.5 LC orange at 6-800 rpms via makita 9227C and then bump up to 1200-1500 rpms max then back down to 800 rpms to burnish the paint. does that sound right?



I know this depends on paint condition and its hardness but on average how many passes of SIP does it take to correct the paint?



For the final polish ill be using PO85RD on a white LC pad, do I run speeds faster or slower than the SIP? (ie 1300-1400?) or do I run the PO85RD on a slower speed (1000-1200?)



Also I will be practicing on a beater panel.



Hack1.jpg
 
Finish on a blue pad with 106 to lessen the chance of trails appearing 2-3 months after you polish. If you work the SIP long enough, it will finish down almost 100 percent (minus very minor trails from the orange pad). A blue pad and 106 (or my favorite, a grey pad) will ensure that the paint is closer the perfect, IMO.
 
TH0001 said:
Finish on a blue pad with 106 to lessen the chance of trails appearing 2-3 months after you polish. If you work the SIP long enough, it will finish down almost 100 percent (minus very minor trails from the orange pad). A blue pad and 106 (or my favorite, a grey pad) will ensure that the paint is closer the perfect, IMO.
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So you think 106FF on a CCS grey or blue has enough cut to remove the trails from SIP on a CCS orange or purple foamed wool?
 
DanSTi said:
So you think 106FF on a CCS grey or blue has enough cut to remove the trails from SIP on a CCS orange or purple foamed wool?
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from what Ive been reading you can finish down with SIP and an orange LC if done correctly, wool on the other hand Im sure would leave some sort of trail behind. Feel free to correct me if iam wrong.
 
higher speeds with a compound to break down the polish

same speed or lower with a polish and work it in, or to remove the trails left behind
 
DanSTi said:
So you think 106FF on a CCS grey or blue has enough cut to remove the trails from SIP on a CCS orange or purple foamed wool?
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With a rotary in the right hands......sure....:up



Going back over with SIP and finishing with 106 maybe be necessary in some cases.....
 
TH0001 said:
Finish on a blue pad with 106 to lessen the chance of trails appearing 2-3 months after you polish. If you work the SIP long enough, it will finish down almost 100 percent (minus very minor trails from the orange pad). A blue pad and 106 (or my favorite, a grey pad) will ensure that the paint is closer the perfect, IMO.
Click to expand...





I concur on 106ff and a grey pad. my absolute favorite!
 
Carbon Blue said:
from what Ive been reading you can finish down with SIP and an orange LC if done correctly, wool on the other hand Im sure would leave some sort of trail behind. Feel free to correct me if iam wrong.
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With a rotary I'd have to see that to believe it - the orange pad alone is generally too aggressive for finishing on black paint with a rotary.



I actually have had the best luck finishing with green (I use the American Buffing flowered edge pads that aren't made any more) - on a micro level, I found that the more porous nature of the green foam actually helped in that the abrasive particles did not get slammed into the paint as hard...though any of the softer pads should work on most black vehicles.
 
I think you can finish SIP/Orange down marring free, but I would feel that in most cases you are going to have hologramming.



If I use wool, I usually will go over it with SIP/White, then finish with 106 or UF with a gray or blue pad to ensure its perfect. Of course the paint dictates the process.
 
Radicalrev said:
what causes buffer trails??
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Poor technique

Not working product long enough or too long

Not stepping down from an aggressive combo with a swirl remover

Too much speed or pressure or both
 
What causes that, just too aggresive compound and too aggresive pad. Or a dirty pad.



In that picture, I can tell you from experience that Ford paint is pretty darn soft, so it doesn't take much to hologram it like that, but it's also pretty easy to correct.
 
this is your best bet.

1. when working on a cutting pad + heavy to medium grade compound causes marring/holograms

2. working the above to long leaving it dry and compound caked already to pad causes marring/holograms

3. polishing was not followed thus not removing marring/holograms

4. polishing should be worked properly..(depending on what kind and what brand) to removing marring/holograms

5. always have a finishing polish to ensure more removal and having the best possible gloss

6. and it's always a plus having a good technique.. it's all in the hands...
 
TH0001 said:
Finish on a blue pad with 106 to lessen the chance of trails appearing 2-3 months after you polish. If you work the SIP long enough, it will finish down almost 100 percent (minus very minor trails from the orange pad). A blue pad and 106 (or my favorite, a grey pad) will ensure that the paint is closer the perfect, IMO.
Click to expand...



interesting...I'm going to have to try that one out! Thanks for posting that!
 
i love this pic. Always reminds the detailer to be very very careful not to inflict such a thing to a car. This is detailers/owners worst nightmare. this would be a good reminder
 
This is what a rotary and a wool pad can do with inexperience behind the wheel.



I’m sure the guy meant well, “hey, I’ll grab that buffer and really make the paint shiny!�
 
It's the work of a typical mobile detailer. Hit it aggressively then slap on some glaze to conceal the problem and move on to the next car.



To fix this, you just need time, and proper technique. This might be as simple as using the PC, or might need something alone the lines of a white pad, the appropriate polish and the rotary.



But I still finish with the PC as I don't want ANY chance of buffer trails existing on my finishes---"almost no trails" is not good enough for me or my customers.



Richard
 
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