Help with Sanding Marks

L

lutzms

New member
OK, so I made a big mistake, and tried to cut a scratch/touchup down with the wrong grit of paper. I did about 5 passes of 600 in three different areas before I realized everything. I tried to clean it up with 2000, but two of the areas are still showing some scratches. I did about 10 passes of the 2000 to clean it up. My question is, based off of what I have available, can I take care of the scratches (will post pics when I can get to the car this weekend), or will I need to step it up to something like SSR3? Would hitting the area with more passes of the 2000, then moving up to 3000 help me at all, or should I cut my losses with the paper and try something else? My local store handles all the Meg's products, and a lot of 3M products, so I could check on suggested products. They also have 4inch pad kits, which help in cutting these areas. Thanks for the help!



**Sonus Pad Kit

**Meg's Burgundy Pad

**Meg's 83

*Meg's 82

**600, 1500, 2000 grit paper
 
I've been able to get out 2K sanding scratches with 3M PI-III RC 05933, but it's about the limit of what you can get out without a rotary. Might be worth having some 3K for the final pass, I dunno...



IMO the only way to get out the 600 scratches is to sand with something like the 2K, hope you don't cut too deep in the process. Whatever you do is gonna involve abrasion and with the paper you oughta have some good control over what's going on. But there's simply a limit to what you can do without messing up the paint. Sometimes you just have to live with imperfections rather than thin the paint too much (not the touchup, the OE paint surrounding it).



I'd sure inspect after every stroke and I'd only use Meg's Unigrit paper, not the 3M stuff.
 
Hopefully u didnt go in too deep with that 600, but thisis what i would do

since u have 600, go with 1000, 1200 1500 2000

Then if u have a rotary u can use a medium cutting pad with megs 83, then polishing pad wiith 83, then a polishing pad with 82. That should take care of it

I had recently wetsanded parts of my car and the main mistake i was maknig was that my pad was worn out so it was taking me forever to buff it out.

Since i got my new edge pads, my time got cut by atleast 50percent, so make sure u got good pads



Good luck
 
Here's what I thought for tacking the problem. If I go this route, I have everything I need except the paper, so I should be able to do it this weekend. Let me know what you think.



1) Light passes with 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000



2) Cut with 3M PI-11 on PC with Meg's yellow pad (the guy at the body shop that also sells the products told me it will have a little more cut than the #83, but isn't quite as harsh as SSR3



3) #83 on burgundy Meg's pad



4) #80 on sonus restore pad



5) #80 on polishing pad (if needed)



6) Two coats of NXT



7) Top off with Meg's #16
 
Expanding on your plan, the PI-II FCRC (39002 in the 16 oz.bottle) is very similar to the PI-III RC (05933) that I use. It'll leave a good enough finish that you probably won't need the #83. I go straight from the RC to PI-III MG (05937) or #80 without any trouble.



So just skip the #83/7006 combo.
 
Thanks for the tip with the PI products. The less abrasion I have to use on the already marred area, the better :) I'll post some pics of my progress (hoping it's an improvement :)).
 
The PI-II FCRC oughta leave a decent finish, not ready-to-wax, but pretty close.



I be you could skip one or two of the sanding increments, but I can't guess which one as I just don't know your paint. Just go really slow/easy and inspect a *LOT* so you don't do any more abrading than necessary.
 
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