Help with a Flex Purchase??

2

2007TBSS

New member
I think I am ready to step up to a Flex. I have done several cars with the Griots RO and it works great, but I am looking to save time/energy and get something a little more aggressive. We have a new baby and I want to step up on my weekend detailing to make up some extra cash while the wife is on shortened hours.



I have a ton of questions and would be glad to hear ANYTHING you have to say on the subject! (pad combos, techniques, how much you love your Flex, ANYTHING)



1) I saw in a thread search where Flex was controlling the price, so is there a place to get a better deal or am I destined to pay $309 + shipping? I assume AG's 10% Autopia code will work but I wondered if anyone had tried contacting online dealers for a better deal.



2) I already have 5.5" Hydro-Techs and a few 5.5" LC Yellow pads and some Surbuf 5.5" pads: Will they work or am I going to have to start over with pads?



3) How much better is the cut with the Flex than with an RO? Such as time saved, less effort needed ect.



4) Do I need to watch for holograms/pigtails with the Flex or is that only on rotary?



5) Is there an optimum pad size?



6) Any other pads a necessity with the Flex? Seen some wool used in a few threads?



7) Anything else I am missing?







I am wanting to not only correct faster, but I also wanted to look into jeweling the paint a little better and was considering grabbing some 3M UF to try on my black TBSS. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated as well.



Thanks!
 
I found that if you like the uber/buff'n'shine pads detailer's domain has the best deal... 350 - 20% = 280 + shipping gets you 1 flex with 8 pads...
 
sulla said:
I found that if you like the uber/buff'n'shine pads detailer's domain has the best deal... 350 - 20% = 280 + shipping gets you 1 flex with 8 pads...
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I can probably like them for that price! Have to do a search and some reading.
 
Woops... Sorry it's been a while since I checked DD their waterfest code has expired ... For now they only offer 10% off..You may have to wait for another sale going on for 20% off..Maybe thanksgiving...
 
2007TBSS said:
I think I am ready to step up to a Flex. I have done several cars with the Griots RO and it works great, but I am looking to save time/energy and get something a little more aggressive...
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Noting that I'm a big fan of the Flex, some people I respect would say that the Griot's will suffice if you use the right stuff. Just wanted to say that..





1) I saw in a thread search where Flex was controlling the price, so is there a place to get a better deal or am I destined to pay $309 + shipping? I assume AG's 10% Autopia code will work but I wondered if anyone had tried contacting online dealers for a better deal.
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No idea, I just bought mine when I needed it.



2) I already have 5.5" Hydro-Techs and a few 5.5" LC Yellow pads and some Surbuf 5.5" pads: Will they work or am I going to have to start over with pads?
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You need to start over with pads at least 6". 6.5" or 7" are better.

3) How much better is the cut with the Flex than with an RO? Such as time saved, less effort needed ect.
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No way for me to really quantify it, but the difference is significant enough that it really impressed me. IMO the PC/4" will do about the same type of work, but the Flex covers more ground faster.

4) Do I need to watch for holograms/pigtails with the Flex or is that only on rotary?
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Not true holograms (those are rotary-only) but you could get pigtails/etc. if the paint is too soft for your pad/product combo. Not really a huge issue as compared to the Griot's IME, but I don't work on stupid-soft paint either.



5) Is there an optimum pad size?
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I'd say 6.5".

6) Any other pads a necessity with the Flex? Seen some wool used in a few threads?
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I'd stick with foam and SurBufs but PFW would be OK too. Note that I don't mind using *the right wool* pads with ROs, including 4" ones on the PC, but it's a special-situation sort of thing.

7) Anything else I am missing?
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Eh, I'd just get it and get acquainted with it. It *does* have a bit more "recoil" than you might expect.



Put a *LITTLE* light oil on the felt ring behind the backing plate, and make sure the backing plate is on nice and snug. Don't press so hard that you drive the backing plate into the felt ring.



I am wanting to not only correct faster, but I also wanted to look into jeweling the paint a little better and was considering grabbing some 3M UF to try on my black TBSS. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated as well.
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I'm not convinced that UF is the best choice for non-rotary applications. IMO you don't need that to burnish/jewel GM clear anyhow, that's pretty hard paint and lots of products will work fine. I wouldn't *assume* that it really needs jeweling anyhow, and note that I'm one of the people who's posted about doing it since forever ;)
 
Thanks as usual!



Pad suggestions? I looked at the LC CCS pads on AG and they seemed to me like what I might be looking for and I can get 6 packs for a decent price.



I was thinking of getting yellow for hammered paint, orange for any hazing removal or medium swirled paint and gray for finish polishing. That sound about right?



Is there a better pad choice? I *do* like working with the HydroTechs but I wondered if maybe something else was more cut effective/cost effective. They seem to be a little fragile, even though I change them every body panel or two, only run them dry (free from washing moisture) and brush them frequently. :think:



I plan to keep the RO, but switch it to the 3" or 4" pads for tight spots and head/tail lights.







As a side note on the HT's, I wonder if maybe am misusing the 105. Some people say it only has about a 1 min work time, but I usually go 3 passes and it seems to be running dry about half way through, but when I stop the pad, there's moist polish there. So I assumed it was just working with the pad. Maybe the HT's are right and my process is wrong. Am I missing something? (probably)
 
2007TBSS- I'm really not the guy to ask about pads as I'm just using up all the old ones I've had since forever. I do think that a lot of people *dislike* the CCS ones though, so I'd probably steer clear.



With the M105, I think it just takes experience to see what *you* need to do with it. While you don't want to overwork it, underworking it can be inefficient. Still pretty effective though, and not a really bad thing since it's not like you're breaking it down or anything. Quitting too soon just wastes time IMO, and I'd rather err in that direction than have clumps of dried product clogging the pad and causing marring.
 
You can get a Flex for 20% off over at detailersdomain with a 20% off code they have running now good through 8/1.



Code: 400020



This is good for any in stock items. :)





I bought mine around memorial day from DD for 20% off with 8 Uber pads for less than other places wanted for just the polisher with this code. Worked out great. :)
 
2007TBSS said:
What do you think about the Uber pads? I'll have to read up and see what the deal is with them.:think2
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I love em. They are just buff and shine with an uber label on em. Real nice.
 
I'd stay away from the ccs pads.Go with flat pads.



PS: My second flex just went back to Powerhouse for repair for the second time in a few months. Just be aware. I still love it. I use CG's ssr3 compound with wool to attack scratches that normally need a rotary.



But, I still use my rotary at times.
 
If I do the green Uber pad on the Flex, what a good polish for an awsome single step?



I have 205 and that would probably work pretty well, but I wondered if I would get more cut/correction and then finish out nicely with a diminishing polish?
 
D151 would a great single step polish. More cut than 205 and it leaves down a just waxed look. (there's a wax or sealant in 151)
 
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